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  (#76)
NickRummy
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09.21.2011, 06:32 AM

When I was tightening the slipper I noticed the pinion was loose as well so I tightened that. The motor still spun freely, you could feel resistance every time it spun past a magnet like it should.
   
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BIG-block
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09.21.2011, 06:41 AM

Looks like you are safe then. Is the problem still there? If it is then the ESC might be toast. Is it a recalled/fixed unit?
   
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  (#78)
NickRummy
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09.21.2011, 06:48 AM

Yeh its a recalled XL. I guess I just wait for the XL that I currently have at Castle to be replaced and give it a try then.
   
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NickRummy
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11.03.2011, 03:15 PM

FINALLY! A working speed control! Hoping to have test runs tomorrow.

   
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rckcrwlr
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11.03.2011, 03:24 PM

Quote:
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FINALLY! A working speed control! Hoping to have test runs tomorrow.

Which one is that??? Are you holding out on me?


Bought my Wife a Rock Garden :027:
   
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  (#81)
NickRummy
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11.03.2011, 03:31 PM

Fighter Cat Racing, 16S 150A :D
   
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Knez
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11.03.2011, 04:05 PM

Damn, what a nice esc.


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  (#83)
rckcrwlr
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11.03.2011, 04:06 PM

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Fighter Cat Racing, 16S 150A :D
Is this the boat or the car version? The car is 16S 200A.

Did you pick up a programmer too?


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  (#84)
NickRummy
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11.03.2011, 04:23 PM

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Originally Posted by rckcrwlr View Post
Is this the boat or the car version? The car is 16S 200A.

Did you pick up a programmer too?
I think this might be his V2 but yeh, it's the car version. It says 150A on the bottom of the ESC and it says 3S-17S too. I got the USB link from him and a turnigy BEC as well. I downloaded the software to program it but haven't had a chance to bring the truck in to sit it on my desk. You need the motor hooked up to hear chimes while programming.
   
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  (#85)
krunk
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11.14.2011, 09:54 PM

Have you tested the Fightercat yet?


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rckcrwlr
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11.14.2011, 09:59 PM

funny thing is I was going to order one and that same day I got my notification that CC shipped my XL2.


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_paralyzed_
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11.15.2011, 07:42 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by NickRummy View Post
I think this might be his V2 but yeh, it's the car version. It says 150A on the bottom of the ESC and it says 3S-17S too. I got the USB link from him and a turnigy BEC as well. I downloaded the software to program it but haven't had a chance to bring the truck in to sit it on my desk. You need the motor hooked up to hear chimes while programming.
It is a car version and 200amp. Fighter Cat Brandon ran out of 200amp stickers and used 150amp stickers. Both versions can handle 17s, but he markets the car version as 16s for some head room.


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krunk
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11.18.2011, 07:50 PM

Be careful on your first run, don't gear it too high. Check out this thread. These esc's may not be as good as we hoped.
http://www.hpibajaforum.com/forum/sh...=117438&page=2


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  (#89)
BIG-block
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11.19.2011, 05:49 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by krunk View Post
Be careful on your first run, don't gear it too high. Check out this thread. These esc's may not be as good as we hoped.
http://www.hpibajaforum.com/forum/sh...=117438&page=2

I don't mean to offend that guy in the vids too much but IMO he is a bit of a meat head. What he was doing with his E-Baja was pretty stupid and would be in almost any other car. Constant jabs of full throttle on high traction surfaces is going to send the amp draw through the roof and build heat very quickly. Also spinning the wheels at full throttle on dirt and then crossing over to the bitumen is just insane. In a heavy car like that with no slipper clutch again current spikes would be huge. That ESC was working overtime.

I hate people that drive electric RC's like that. They treat the throttle like an ON/OFF switch with nothing in between. Stupid IMO. While you can get away with doing some of that in a smaller scale I doubt any ESC would last long in a large scale car with that kind of treatment.

At least he has fitted a slipper clutch now so that might help but that guy really needs to change his driving style. Jabbing the full throttle like that constantly he is going to go through ESC's fast.
   
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  (#90)
_paralyzed_
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11.19.2011, 07:39 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by BIG-block View Post
I don't mean to offend that guy in the vids too much but IMO he is a bit of a meat head. What he was doing with his E-Baja was pretty stupid and would be in almost any other car. Constant jabs of full throttle on high traction surfaces is going to send the amp draw through the roof and build heat very quickly. Also spinning the wheels at full throttle on dirt and then crossing over to the bitumen is just insane. In a heavy car like that with no slipper clutch again current spikes would be huge. That ESC was working overtime.

I hate people that drive electric RC's like that. They treat the throttle like an ON/OFF switch with nothing in between. Stupid IMO. While you can get away with doing some of that in a smaller scale I doubt any ESC would last long in a large scale car with that kind of treatment.

At least he has fitted a slipper clutch now so that might help but that guy really needs to change his driving style. Jabbing the full throttle like that constantly he is going to go through ESC's fast.
Well, I guess you hate me, because I drive just like that. With my brushless baja. With all of my r/c's. I am a basher, and a power junkie. I have gone through 3 sets of rear tires crossing over from dirt to bitumen and my MambaXL (not XL2, I never sent either of mine in) has stayed cool calm and collected. It was designed to be driven by idiots, and that's how I drive mine- like an idiot.

I bash all my r/c's this way. With a properly geared setup the esc will handle any torture you throw at it. That's why we check temps often with a fresh build, and adjust accordingly.

It wasn't his driving that killed the esc, it was a bad esc, and the manufacturer suspects a bad batch of capacitors is to blame.


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