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BrianG
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10.04.2009, 12:52 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nard Cox View Post
...I'm a bit confused I guess. You are running the MMM combo which requires, or at least people / CC / HPI advise, to run with at least 120A continues battery delivery correct? And from racing, where the loads are probably higher than some random bashing, the loads don't even touch 50A, or did you gear it down a lot ?
I could be wrong here, but I believe the magic 120A rating CC recommends is simply an easy way to help noobs pick batteries without them having to worry about all the technical jargon. I feel that as long as the battery can deliever whatever current is required by a specific setup without excessive voltage drop, then they will be fine. CC is probably banking on the assumption that if a battery manufacturer says their battery can deliver 120A, then it will do so without stress. There lies the problem though; can said battery really do that, or is it just optimistic (and maybe unrealistic) rating? Or, maybe it can deliver 120A, but will drop to 3.1v/cell. In my subjective opinion, a battery should be able to deliver its rated current at no lower than 3.5v/cell over 75-80% of its cycle, with no more than 20-25*F above ambient temps (or 120*F, which ever comes first).

As far as usage goes, generally, racers have much more throttle control and so are easier on the WOT starts and heavy stops. Bashers running in grass and/or doing wheelies/backflips and jamming on the brake is harder on batteries.
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