Best 10th scale 4wd

[Arct1k]

Ryan - The speed runs 48mph at the end were on 4s 5000mah c**pamps... I think that 4s on the 3300 would be ok with just gearing it down a touch...

12T would give you 42mph

what are the adtvantages or disatvantages of a crt .5 vs a crt 1x

[Finnster]

Originally Posted by Arct1k

Ryan - The speed runs 48mph at the end were on 4s 5000mah c**pamps... I think that 4s on the 3300 would be ok with just gearing it down a touch...

12T would give you 42mph

O'rly? I thought it was your 3S packs


Oh well.. I'm suprized it was wasn't faster then lol. It could prolly take a lot more gear. When I did the 60mph passes w/ the LMT I had a 18T pinion and 1/10th buggy tires. I was actually only pulling 1000W then. With the M2Ks on a 13T or 14T I was pulling 1400W on the LMT and doing just under 50.

Right now I have a 13T w/ the mashers and the Medusa and it runs really well. OTOH I had the buggy tires on w/ the 13T at first and it was a bit slow, about 35-38mph. Wouldn't wheelie either. Putting on the bigger tires (and bigger load) really woke the motor up. I think it needs a 15-16T for the small tires, and a 14-15T for 1/10 truck tires to run well.

So it sounds like either would work, assuming the 3300 stays cool w/ that high FDR. (sounds like it does) I do guarantee that 3300 will be balisitic if you up the gearing.

[VintageMA]

There's been a couple of threads about this in the past:

Here's one I found:
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13183

Like Finnster I've tried a myriad of motor/battery/wheel/tire combos in my CRT.5 and the only conclusions I've come to for my setups are:
-It takes about 925-950W peak to really push this buggy around when geared in the ~40-45 range.
-When using 1/10 buggy tires w/16T pinion or 1/10 truck tires with 13T pinion the speed is about the same and so is the power output.
-I keep going back and forth between the buggy and truck tires because there are different aspects of running with each that are both positive and negative, but I think the 2.8 Anacondas are the best on-road tire pick for parking lot running.

I'm currently running with a 5S 2600 TP pack and 1512 2.5d (2050kv) on a MM and I love the setup. More than enough power and great temps. I like the additional weight to help stabilize a bit more from bouncing around all over the place.

The one problem I have with the CRT.5 more so than any other car I've had is that on any sort of grass surface it is extremely prone to flipping when you turn - even at very slow speeds.

I have not had an LS10, but I have to say I am very tempted to get one because of the flipping problem and also that the front upper arm turnbuckles have a real issue with snapping.

[GO-RIDE.com]

Originally Posted by VintageMA

The one problem I have with the CRT.5 more so than any other car I've had is that on any sort of grass surface it is extremely prone to flipping when you turn - even at very slow speeds.

What setup are you running on the .5? Mine does great on just about everything. My 10th truck is a bit more stable overall due to both greater width and length, but 4wd .5 is more fun to drive. With truck tires I run the rear bones a bit below level and set the front ride height for chassis level. With buggy tires I run rear bones level and front again set up to level the chassis with the rear. I had some tip over problems in the past, but it was because I was running too stiff of springs.

[VintageMA]

Originally Posted by GO-RIDE.com

What setup are you running on the .5? Mine does great on just about everything. My 10th truck is a bit more stable overall due to both greater width and length, but 4wd .5 is more fun to drive. With truck tires I run the rear bones a bit below level and set the front ride height for chassis level. With buggy tires I run rear bones level and front again set up to level the chassis with the rear. I had some tip over problems in the past, but it was because I was running too stiff of springs.

Running the medium blue in back and white hard in front with stock oil weight. With the Anacondas on ashpalt it is rock solid and hard to flip. With bow ties, dirt hawgs etc on grass it flip pretty easy and is a little bouncy on the rough stuff. I tend to run a little bit of pre-load with the rears just a touch higher than level and the fronts a bit more as the front tends to bottom out when braking. If you want I can check on the mounting holes used for the front and rear.

[GO-RIDE.com]

Originally Posted by VintageMA

Running the medium blue in back and white hard in front with stock oil weight. With the Anacondas on ashpalt it is rock solid and hard to flip. With bow ties, dirt hawgs etc on grass it flip pretty easy and is a little bouncy on the rough stuff. I tend to run a little bit of pre-load with the rears just a touch higher than level and the fronts a bit more as the front tends to bottom out when braking. If you want I can check on the mounting holes used for the front and rear.

I ran the same setup for a while and had similar problems on our local clay track. With the white F & blue R spring setup the car would clip something on the inside of a turn and the car would flip. A good test is to place the car on a flat surface and lift one front wheel. With the white springs you will notice that the shock on the wheel you lift will not compress. This is why the car flips. I found with stock shocks I could only run the Blue F & Grey R spring combo. I would the play with higher damping pistons to keep the car from bottoming too much.

In the end I did the Traxxas Revo shocks on the front and Ofna LX 1 front shocks on the rear. Now I can run soft springs for stable handling and use the larger damper to control big hits. I have a post about these mods: http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11153