I recall they said to put the clutch shoes in opposite so it pushes the bell instead of drags it, and to use aluminum shoes and a very light or no spring.
I recall they said to put the clutch shoes in opposite so it pushes the bell instead of drags it, and to use aluminum shoes and a very light or no spring.
If that's what they're recommending, they should not sell those stockers with the kit then .
Castle Neu 1520 on 6S LiPo Powered Gmaxx (Nitro Killer)
Predator with OS .21TM
Supermaxx with Mach .26
Revo with OS .18TZ
Kyosho ST-RR Conversion
Ofna CR with Tekin ESC/Motor (2)
If that's what they're recommending, they should not sell those stockers with the kit then .
We use the stock clutch shoes and bells in truggies and can pull wheelies at will. The stock shoes work just fine. Try the above recommendations and we'll make sure you're running good. Thanks.
If that is the clutch setup that I sold you it is fine. I ran it it and the temps came down and never changed. If you do alot of stop and start the clutch will get hotter than if you are doing speed runs.
Hmmm... 150 degrees is normal. If the clutch is 250 or higher, then that is a problem, but 150 is close to the lower end of the temp range. It appears your clutch bell is shimmed perfectly - tiny gap between the bell and the flywheel.
How does the truck run? If there is excessive slipping (no punch), check the slipper clutch behind the spur. If the clutch bell were slipping, the temp would be a lot higher (250-300). One other thing to check if there is still audible/noticeable slipping would be the clutch nut. Tighten it down on the flywheel just a tad more, but this is a last resort. Let us know how it goes.