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BrianG
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12.24.2008, 06:41 PM

That's the width? I guess it makes sense; 190mm=7.48", 200mm=7.87"
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lincpimp
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12.24.2008, 07:58 PM

I serious doubt that you will ever damage a driveshaft with an electric tc tire. They weight next to nothing, and most only have so much grip. The 4tec sliders are stout, plus you will most likely run foam tires, and they never game me any issues on my tt01 with the plastic dogbones. These small cars are so light nothing really wears very fast. Good fun if you have a decent smooth parking lot. I used to drift the tamiya in between speed runs... It was still very controllable even geared for 70+...
   
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killajb
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12.25.2008, 12:34 AM

Would you ever consider 1/14 scale? There's a Spashett edition Sportwerks Recoil on fleabay (all carbon fiber options, threaded shocks, blah blah) for a hundred bucks NIB. I bought one and put a hobbywing EZ-run 60A esc along with a 6000kv Hyperion in it and the thing flies.
   
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himalaya
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12.25.2008, 02:20 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by lincpimp View Post
I serious doubt that you will ever damage a driveshaft with an electric tc tire. They weight next to nothing, and most only have so much grip. The 4tec sliders are stout, plus you will most likely run foam tires, and they never game me any issues on my tt01 with the plastic dogbones. These small cars are so light nothing really wears very fast. Good fun if you have a decent smooth parking lot. I used to drift the tamiya in between speed runs... It was still very controllable even geared for 70+...
The problem may not be the shafts, but the diffs. I've seen some of my friends got the differentials melt in their EP touring car after converted from brushed to brushless.

I am too looking for a tough 1/10 touring car having metal planetary geared diffs, don't mind for the bit extra weight.


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Unsullied_Spy
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12.25.2008, 04:30 AM

I used to have a 3.3 Nitro 4-Tec, if you like to drift that's the RC for you. They're probably 2x the weight of any modern touring car so you just have to back off the throttle, turn in, then gas it and you're sliding even with nitro power. It was pretty tough though, I hit a patch of dust/dirt at 60+ and completely lost it. I managed to get enough control of it to slow it down but it still hit the curb pretty hard. All that broke was the rear shock tower and that was really easy to replace. The planetary diffs never gave me any trouble and the plastic output yokes were still holding on when I sold it.


All I ever wanted was an honest weeks pay for an honest days work.
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Semi Pro
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12.26.2008, 12:28 AM

hey i have a tamiya tg10 that would be easy to convert to brushless, its a bullet proof as they come, im letting it go very very cheep.

it has gear diffs, aluminum drive shaft, metal axels,steal dog bones,aluminum chassis, bran new body, wheels and tires,its a tuff car

here is a link to my urc for sale thread
http://www.ultimaterc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=95099



Quote:
Originally Posted by Semi Pro View Post
......maybe they want to be more like novak
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Originally Posted by BrianG View Post
I'm telling Patrick you said that!

Last edited by Semi Pro; 12.26.2008 at 12:32 AM.
   
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riceman
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12.26.2008, 09:45 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianG View Post
Converting a nitro is fine with me. Actually, I expected it.

Garage/basement is just for playing when it is too cold outside. But mostly for small parking lots and such. I still haven't seen the full speed of my GTP because I run out of room. I had a Tamitay EVO III, which is 10th scale IIRC, and it worked pretty good in tight places, but parts are REALLY hard to come by so I gave it to my brother with a gentle brushed motor/LRP ESC (was on my son's Pede).

Yeah, I don't like ball diffs. I'd much rather have a planetary or spider diff that is tunable with oil.

I took a look at the 4tec at traxxas and noticed they use similar driveshafts as Slash/Pede/Rustler and found them to twist easily. So, whatever I get has to have steel outdrives and CVDs as well.

So, the list of requirements are:

> Spider or planetary steel oil-tunable diffs
CHECK
> Steel driveshaft outdrives and CVDs
ALMOST Dogbones Front/Rear
Not sure about main driveshaft though
> Easy to work on any one part without tearing half the vehicle apart.
CHECK Looks as easy to work on as just about any other 1/10 scaler.
> Sized to fit typical 10th scale bodies
CHECK
Length 14.5" (368mm)
Width 7.5" (190.5mm)
Wheelbase 10.38" (263.65mm)
Weight 2.42 lbs. (1100g,approx.)


At this rate, I might as well just get another CRT.5 and create a chassis and shock towers specific for on-road use since it has the driveline I am happy with. Actually, that's not a bad idea really. Hmmm. I wonder if the CRT.5 arms are too wide... How wide are 10th scale bodies?
I was looking at the Thunder Tiger Sparrowhowk for just about all the same reasons/requirements you listed. Not sure about parts availability of Thunder Tiger in your neck of the woods. That would be my only concern.

Sparrowhawk VX Touring Car
Sparrowhawk DX Drifter


The drifter looks very bling blingy - me likey!



And if you want an off-road version
Sparrowhawk XB
   
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BrianG
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12.26.2008, 11:35 AM

@Semi-pro: Replied to your PM

@riceman: Yeah, seems parts are slim around here. Even tower has nothing.

So far, the 4Tec is probably the closest I'm gonna get to what I'm looking for...
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lincpimp
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12.26.2008, 11:44 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianG View Post
So far, the 4Tec is probably the closest I'm gonna get to what I'm looking for...
If so, I can send you some pics of mine... I'll make you a good deal... I even have some machined adapters to use the stock 2 speed, they are threaded to fit the pinion gears and have a 1/8" hole with set screw for the 10th scale motors...
   
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riceman
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12.26.2008, 12:30 PM

HPI E10?? Inexpensive roller. 4WD shaft drive sealed diffs. Easy parts availability...

Last edited by riceman; 12.26.2008 at 12:37 PM.
   
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  (#26)
BL_RV0
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12.26.2008, 03:22 PM

E-10s are not very good cars. My buddy has one and he drifted into a curb at about 5mph and broke an a-arm.


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BrianG
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12.26.2008, 03:32 PM

Well, I looked around at the HPI site and they do seem to have a decent range of parts, hopups, and bodies. And my LHS does deal with HPI, so that's nice. The nitro RS4 (the drift one) seems to have what I'm looking for. The regular RS4 doesn't have adjustable camber, but that's really not a big deal, and could be changed out for the drift's links if I really wanted I guess.

It's either that or the 4tec I think. Still trying to decide. Despite what people say about the 4tec drive shafts being fine, I'm still hung up on that issue.
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_paralyzed_
working on a brushless for my wheelchair.....
 
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12.26.2008, 05:02 PM

i want you to try an n4-tec and tell me how it does, you know, learn on your dime


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It's "Dr. _paralyzed_" actually. Not like with a PhD, but Doctor like in Dr. Pepper.
   
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trev3813
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12.26.2008, 05:17 PM

Any interest in a Tc3?
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BrianG
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12.26.2008, 05:27 PM

You mean this one: http://www.rc10.com/ae/ntc3/ntc3_home.htm

Dunno. Is it solid? Does it have metal diff gears (spider/planetarey - not ball)?
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