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Unsullied_Spy
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03.03.2009, 06:42 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dagger Thrasher View Post
With all due respect, have you run an MMM? I don't think there's a single person on this board who's actually managed to even thermal one yet; current-wise, they can handle *plenty* enough. And even if it could handle yet higher currents, this wouldn't have any effect on its ability to withstand high ripple voltages. It's an independent issue.

Besides...a true 275A controller like you're talking about would be simply too big to be practical in 1/8th scale. And if you used such a controller in larger models, the current throughput of the whole system due to the 6S limitation would render the whole system insanely inefficient and unreliable.
I agree. They're rated to 120A continuous but the components are good for 200ish. The only way to thermal one is if the fan breaks or if you are really pushing it too far. IMO 120-150 amps is all you need in an ESC as long as it's rated accurately, anything more than that and you should gear down or volt up.


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lutach
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03.03.2009, 07:39 PM

People should treat what ever cont. current rating as the burst cont. meaning every time you grab full throttle your motor should ask for 120A or less. This is how things runs cool and also not grabbing full throttle and hard breaking helps a lot too. I think it's up to the manufacturers to make people aware of this so they don't get things confused. I would love to see a ESC, battery, wires, connectors and most important the copper traces found in the ESC handle 120A continuous. This is why the ones that claim 500A+ gets bitten in the you know what all the time. Does anyone have the KO BL esc? I would love to see what alien technology allows it to deliver 780A cont. and 3000A+ burst. Good thing Castle keeps it real A+++. Sorry for bringing other brands in here Castle (Patrick).
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