Monster Max 8S plans?

[Sammus]

20s? sweet, finally my Mini-t will get the power it deserves.

[myndseye]

Hey Patrick, I still humbly put in my request for more current handling instead of more voltage handling. An indestructable esc at 6s is all most rc'ers will ever need. 350A continuous would make it perfect.

[SV6000]

Geez a 12s monster 2215 NEU for MAXX and REVO anyone??

[TexasSP]

Originally Posted by myndseye

Hey Patrick, I still humbly put in my request for more current handling instead of more voltage handling. An indestructable esc at 6s is all most rc'ers will ever need. 350A continuous would make it perfect.

Talk about inefficient and lots of heat. Why try and produce 7700 watts with 6s? Higher voltage at lower amps producing the same wattage is much more efficient and be much more reliable.

The MMM specs are just fine for 6s.

[myndseye]

Originally Posted by TexasSP

Talk about inefficient and lots of heat. Why try and produce 7700 watts with 6s? Higher voltage at lower amps producing the same wattage is much more efficient and be much more reliable.

The MMM specs are just fine for 6s.

I don't want to produce any more heat, and I also don't want battery packs all over my cars. I want a controller that could care less about burst currents, spikes, shorts, drivetrain bindings, and overgearing. A controller that can surpass a batterys ability to harm it under extreme operating conditions, would be way better than high-s for all my applications. I have absolutely no desire to make a vehicle for me to ride on, but 5 or 6s 10,000 would be a good reason to put two packs on something. I have given plenty of controllers "the business" and thermaled them, when the battery and motor were fine. My MGM can take it with no problem, where the Monster overheats. If Castle were to make a 275+ continuous controller thats more affordable, everyone who has had to drop a couple of teeth to make their setup happy, will thank them.

[Dagger Thrasher]

Originally Posted by myndseye

I don't want to produce any more heat, and I also don't want battery packs all over my cars. I want a controller that could care less about burst currents, spikes, shorts, drivetrain bindings, and overgearing. A controller that can surpass a batterys ability to harm it under extreme operating conditions, would be way better than high-s for all my applications. I have absolutely no desire to make a vehicle for me to ride on, but 5 or 6s 10,000 would be a good reason to put two packs on something. I have given plenty of controllers "the business" and thermaled them, when the battery and motor were fine. My MGM can take it with no problem, where the Monster overheats. If Castle were to make a 275+ continuous controller thats more affordable, everyone who has had to drop a couple of teeth to make their setup happy, will thank them.

If you're thermalling an MMM, you're doing something seriously wrong. I don't think there's a single other person on this board who's actually managed to thermal one yet; current-wise, they can handle *plenty* enough. And even if it could handle yet higher currents, this wouldn't have any effect on its ability to withstand high ripple voltages. It's an independent issue.

Besides...a true 275A controller like you're talking about would be simply too big to be practical in 1/8th scale. And if you used such a controller in larger models, the current throughput of the whole system due to the 6S limitation would render the whole system insanely inefficient and unreliable.

[Unsullied_Spy]

Originally Posted by Dagger Thrasher

With all due respect, have you run an MMM? I don't think there's a single person on this board who's actually managed to even thermal one yet; current-wise, they can handle *plenty* enough. And even if it could handle yet higher currents, this wouldn't have any effect on its ability to withstand high ripple voltages. It's an independent issue.

Besides...a true 275A controller like you're talking about would be simply too big to be practical in 1/8th scale. And if you used such a controller in larger models, the current throughput of the whole system due to the 6S limitation would render the whole system insanely inefficient and unreliable.

I agree. They're rated to 120A continuous but the components are good for 200ish. The only way to thermal one is if the fan breaks or if you are really pushing it too far. IMO 120-150 amps is all you need in an ESC as long as it's rated accurately, anything more than that and you should gear down or volt up.

[lutach]

People should treat what ever cont. current rating as the burst cont. meaning every time you grab full throttle your motor should ask for 120A or less. This is how things runs cool and also not grabbing full throttle and hard breaking helps a lot too. I think it's up to the manufacturers to make people aware of this so they don't get things confused. I would love to see a ESC, battery, wires, connectors and most important the copper traces found in the ESC handle 120A continuous. This is why the ones that claim 500A+ gets bitten in the you know what all the time. Does anyone have the KO BL esc? I would love to see what alien technology allows it to deliver 780A cont. and 3000A+ burst. Good thing Castle keeps it real A+++. Sorry for bringing other brands in here Castle (Patrick).

[Dagger Thrasher]

I don't know about that, Lutach. If people treated true continuous ratings as burst, then they wouldn't be using half the ESC's potential. IMO that's a bit too conservative to be sensible, and besides..it depends on what length of time you define to be a burst. Just my opinion though, there.

I would love to see a ESC, battery, wires, connectors and most important the copper traces found in the ESC handle 120A continuous.

That's just it; the MMM can handle a solid, sustained 120A for any given length of time from what I gather. Patrick himself has mentioned their 120A bench-test they've done on MMMs; the whole shebang handles it.
Agreed on the KO ESC's ratings...they made me laugh when I read them. Obviously they're just FET-specs, but it's just ridiculous.

[lincpimp]

I have to side with Lutach here. You need a big wire to handle 120amps at 20v without it getting hot... And by handle, I mean continuously, for minutes...

[Dagger Thrasher]

Well, maybe I read wrong at some point, though I thought that's what he stated (along with 120A being roughly the max current that can be expected from 10AWG); literally, for minutes. Not sure about the voltage. Tekin did the the same thing with the RX8 at 130A, as the Prez mentions it in that RX8 thread in their forum. Not that it really matters I guess. The Monster can handle plenty of current for most of us.

[lincpimp]

Originally Posted by Dagger Thrasher

Well, maybe I read wrong at some point, though I thought that's what he stated (along with 120A being roughly the max current that can be expected from 10AWG); literally, for minutes. Not sure about the voltage. Tekin did the the same thing with the RX8 at 130A, as the Prez mentions it in that RX8 thread in their forum. Not that it really matters I guess. The Monster can handle plenty of current for most of us.

That is true. I have logged quite a few 4s runs, and they peak at 125+, but average is around 40amps. The MMM is a great esc, that is for sure.

[sikeston34m]

Originally Posted by lincpimp

That is true. I have logged quite a few 4s runs, and they peak at 125+, but average is around 40amps. The MMM is a great esc, that is for sure.

+1

I have quite a few runs on my MMM V2! I couldn't be happier with it.

It has been ran mainly on 4S, but has seen some 5S and 6S runs as well.

For Monster Truck use, I don't know if it can get any better than this.

On 6S, I have seen the fan cycle on and off. On 4S, I wouldn't know if the fan even works if it didn't come on when I first switch on the ESC.

My current setup may be considered mild to most. It's an E Revo with a Medusa 36-60-2000kv gearing 18/52 Mod 1. Tops out right at 40mph on 4S, but will almost hit 60mph on 6S and has torque out the wazoo.

Patrick, when can I buy an 8S Monster from you?

[lutach]

Originally Posted by Dagger Thrasher

I don't know about that, Lutach. If people treated true continuous ratings as burst, then they wouldn't be using half the ESC's potential. IMO that's a bit too conservative to be sensible, and besides..it depends on what length of time you define to be a burst. Just my opinion though, there.



That's just it; the MMM can handle a solid, sustained 120A for any given length of time from what I gather. Patrick himself has mentioned their 120A bench-test they've done on MMMs; the whole shebang handles it.
Agreed on the KO ESC's ratings...they made me laugh when I read them. Obviously they're just FET-specs, but it's just ridiculous.

Try this test and gives us feedback: Get a airplane motor mount, hook a nice big motor along with a nice big prop, try to achieve 120A and keep it at 120A and see what happens. Just keep in mind some of the burst our vehicle see might be upwards in the 200A for a short burst on hard start ups. After the vehicle starts rolling that number takes a nice dive like the "Stock" market lol.

[myndseye]

Originally Posted by Dagger Thrasher

If you're thermalling an MMM, you're doing something seriously wrong. I don't think there's a single other person on this board who's actually managed to thermal one yet; current-wise, they can handle *plenty* enough. And even if it could handle yet higher currents, this wouldn't have any effect on its ability to withstand high ripple voltages. It's an independent issue.

Besides...a true 275A controller like you're talking about would be simply too big to be practical in 1/8th scale. And if you used such a controller in larger models, the current throughput of the whole system due to the 6S limitation would render the whole system insanely inefficient and unreliable.

If I'm thermaling a Monster in my RC circle, I am doing something seriously right. The MGM doesn't have any problems with the setup, why does the Monster? No one else has thermaled one because you guys don't push the limits like we do. From speed-run cars, to ballistic 5th scale hill climbers, I have 5 RC's currently active, only one tenth scale car, and only one that hasn't broken 80mph. Weight is not our friend here. Startup current demands, braking demands, and drivetrain jolts during off-road high speed baja style races, tend to heat up controllers. When ten minute races with high paces mix, the lightest fastest machine usually takes it. Just because you don't have an application for this type setup, don't assume they aren't out there. I promise you that I can find a place for a bulletproof controller twice the size of the Monster on my chassis before I can find a place for another 5000mah pack. If my Monster could last a few more minutes in the enduros and make a few more passes in my Infernos at over 100mph before thermaling, I would only have those in my cars.

P.S. - I know about Patrick's extreme testing of the Monster, that you guys referred to, it was one of my cars that he was using.