introducing new 1/8 120a car esc

[lutach]

Originally Posted by littlegiant

Braking? U mean the braking isn't strong enough?

What about the dimensions and weight of these escs? They look kind of high quality except for those black sponge paddings.

Here are the specs of the 120A, 90A and 35A 6S units:

120A:

LiPo Cell with / without BEC:2~6
BEC Type:Switching
Programmable BEC Voltage:Yes
BEC Output Current (Peak):3A(7A)
Current Rating(A):120A
Peak Current(A):170A
Weight(g):150
PCB Size(mm):60.0 x 43.5
BEC Output Voltage: 6V

90A:

LiPo Cell with / without BEC:2~6
BEC Type:Switching
Programmable BEC Voltage:Yes
BEC Output Current (Peak):3A(7A)
Current Rating(A):90A
Peak Current(A):130A
Weight(g):120
PCB Size(mm):42.0 x 37.0
BEC Output Voltage: 6V

35A:

LiPo Cell with / without BEC:2~6
BEC Type:Switching
Programmable BEC Voltage:Yes
BEC Output Current (Peak):3A(7A)
Current Rating(A):35A
Peak Current(A):50A
Weight(g):40
PCB Size(mm):37.0 x 25.0
BEC Output Voltage: 6V

[florianz]

just had an other ride, on grass, wheather got better. I am still a bit insecure, and don't want to destroy my new toy...

5s zippy-r (about2 yrs old), 1700kv losi motor, truggy-wheels, most times full throttle, and not too hard breaking (due to the grip I had once a somersault)

My impressions so far:
good
- great throttle response
- esc stayed cool, don't know if it's the better fan or the two 1000uf caps, but cooler than yesterday. regarding the heavy wheels and the grass, that's pretty good.

not so good
-heavy cogging sometimes after breaking. but most times very soft startup.

the other's guy esc burned, when the car rolled backwards and then wanted to go forwards, heavy cogging, then smoked. he says that this cogging can kill an esc.

here's a pic of the graupner genius 80r, and you see that it's the same like small one above

hope my pics work?!

[lutach]

Originally Posted by florianz

the other's guy esc burned, when the car rolled backwards and then wanted to go forwards, heavy cogging, then smoked. he says that this cogging can kill an esc.

My Schulze burned up when my truggy rolled backwards and when I applied a small amount of throttle to go forward (No cogging though). If the ESC cogs (Stutters), it's basically telling you it doesn't know where the rotor is and that can cause huge AMP spikes. If the ESC cogs a lot, you must stop immediately or risk loosing it or something else. It might just be a software issue due to the lack of testing or the ESC might just be made for 2 pole slotless motors.

[florianz]

I think I will remove reverse, to be on the safe side.

overall there is no cogging, and most times startup is very smooth. but the hard cogging (not that often) just does not feel healthy...

I definately can say that my modded plane esc's had less or no cogging, so thats new to me.

[littlegiant]

Originally Posted by lutach

My Schulze burned up when my truggy rolled backwards and when I applied a small amount of throttle to go forward (No cogging though). If the ESC cogs (Stutters), it's basically telling you it doesn't know where the rotor is and that can cause huge AMP spikes. If the ESC cogs a lot, you must stop immediately or risk loosing it or something else. It might just be a software issue due to the lack of testing or the ESC might just be made for 2 pole slotless motors.

OK now that I know this, i feel worried about my MM and HW150A. So are sensored esc with sensored motors safe from this problem?

Will smaller pinions help prevent sensorless escs from burning up when a truck is rolling backwards and u give it a little throttle?

[lutach]

Originally Posted by littlegiant

OK now that I know this, i feel worried about my MM and HW150A. So are sensored esc with sensored motors safe from this problem?

Will smaller pinions help prevent sensorless escs from burning up when a truck is rolling backwards and u give it a little throttle?

Speed controls are made different. Some will have a different firing sequence. Sensored ESC should not have an issue locating the rotor. A smaller pinion will lessen the load on the motor, but anything can cause a ESC (Or motor) to fail. If you have a ESC that offers a setting to completely brake before going forward, this should not be a problem and I know the Castle car controllers has this options.

[florianz]

hey lutach,

do you have a manual of that esc? I have NO clue how to change the settings, and they shipped the esc w. the wrong manual... the lipo-cupoff is pretty low, so it almost killed my batteries the other day.

a couple of times the esc was "off" suddenly, maybe it's a problem of the receiver, dunno yet. together with the new 12v fan attached to the batteries, the temps were around 35-40 deg. c after 3 batteries. the rest was ok, too.

thanks a lot,
florian

[lutach]

Originally Posted by florianz

hey lutach,

do you have a manual of that esc? I have NO clue how to change the settings, and they shipped the esc w. the wrong manual... the lipo-cupoff is pretty low, so it almost killed my batteries the other day.

a couple of times the esc was "off" suddenly, maybe it's a problem of the receiver, dunno yet. together with the new 12v fan attached to the batteries, the temps were around 35-40 deg. c after 3 batteries. the rest was ok, too.

thanks a lot,
florian

I don't, I haven't spoken with the manufacturer for a while now. My last e-mail to them was on 12/04/08. Did they send you the program card? They told me that every ESC was going to come with one.