1s esc from castle

[What's_nitro?]

Rds(on) FTW

[ta_man]

Originally Posted by What's_nitro?

Rds(on) FTW

I don't think it is Rds(on), I think it is C.H.E.A.T. mode.

[What's_nitro?]

Originally Posted by ta_man

I don't think it is Rds(on), I think it is C.H.E.A.T. mode.

Well CHEAT mode advances the timing, right? That causes the motor to draw huge amounts of current compared to normal timing, right? Low Rds(on) allows more current to flow and for that current to rise more quickly, right?

Haha, yeah I know we're both right...

[ta_man]

Originally Posted by BrianG

Well, I read about 7 pages of that thread before I got tired of the general whining. Man, some racers are such whining p*ssies! Sorry, but it's true. This is a hobby and meant for relaxation isn't it? Where did they lose grip with reality?

Anyway, from what I gather, they are removing the regulator (not clear if it's the UBEC or some other regulator IC - probably linear due to the dropout voltage), flashing some special 1s software, and fiddling with settings.

Some things I see that are wrong but most don't seem to have the intelligence to think of it (or maybe just so worked up with their stupid debating):

- Instead of a receiver pack, use an DE AnyVolt micro to step up the 1s to whatever they want for the receiver/servo. Weighs a lot less and the 1.2A rating should be adequate for their use. Maybe add a capacitor to the output to help cope with the current spikes.

- Measuring output voltage at the motor wires with a meter is meaningless, even with a true RMS meter. The output of these things is square wave, not sine wave, which is what RMS is supposed to measure. The best way I can think of (other than using an o-scope) to see how much voltage is being output to the motor would be to put it in brushed mode, add a ~470uF capacitor at the output with a ~100 ohm bleeder resistor, then measure DC voltage. I say brushed mode because the voltage at the wires won't switch polarity as long as you stay in the forward range. In BL mode, the wires are omnipolar depending on which coil is being fired. The capacitor simply filters the square wave to a smoother DC signal that any meter could measure. The resistor is just there to bleed off any momentary voltage spikes, if any. And to get a true comparison, they should measure the battery with the same meter to get a "calibration" reading.

Yes, the oval racer community is really whining about this. They are sooo offended that you can pick up a tenth or so with a speedo.

Not everyone uses a receiver pack. Novak makes a booster module that steps up the voltage, but it also incorporates a cutoff so you don't dump the battery too far while practicing. Some people don't waht the extra wiring involved so they use receiver packs.

I couldn't beleive the guy tried to measure the output voltage with a multi-meter on AC.

Originally Posted by What's_nitro?

Well CHEAT mode advances the timing, right? That causes the motor to draw huge amounts of current compared to normal timing, right? Low Rds(on) allows more current to flow and for that current to rise more quickly, right?

Haha, yeah I know we're both right...

Good point, but I don't think a 13.5 Novak can draw the huge amounts of current you are talking about. I run one of these cars and the average current draw for a 5 minute run (flat out - full throttle all the way) is only 20 amps.