Hot bodies 1/8 diffs - Page 22 - RC-Monster Forums

MiRatlhed · 10.09.2011, 09:57 AM

I always see those videos of people running their RC's on BMX tracks and I wish we had one around here. They are so smooth and the jumps are killer.

Glad your truck is running great.

All your hard work is paying off!

I read you were thinking about getting the Top Kick body for the Savage, don't do it! It won't line up with the body mounts. I got one originally for a Race Clod so I just picked up the Savage shell. Then I wanted to paint a Ironhide Transformer with it and put it on my Predator EMaxx and the front body posts end up in the middle of the windshield. So I don't think it will fit yours either.

cmac · 10.09.2011, 12:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MiRatlhed

I always see those videos of people running their RC's on BMX tracks and I wish we had one around here. They are so smooth and the jumps are killer.

Glad your truck is running great.

All your hard work is paying off!

I read you were thinking about getting the Top Kick body for the Savage, don't do it! It won't line up with the body mounts. I got one originally for a Race Clod so I just picked up the Savage shell. Then I wanted to paint a Ironhide Transformer with it and put it on my Predator EMaxx and the front body posts end up in the middle of the windshield. So I don't think it will fit yours either.

No MiRatlhed,
I don't own a Savage. I only have the Emaxx with the two Topkick bodies. I did put a Transformer emblem on the back of the black topkick.

cmac · 10.11.2011, 07:12 AM

Thanks for the heads up. I was thinking about doing that down the road. In fact the custom body that I had painted was originally ordered with that body. I changed it just because I had a feeling it would not work. I'm glad I did, and now you confirmed it.
thanks again,
Mike.

MiRatlhed · 10.11.2011, 07:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cmac

Thanks for the heads up. I was thinking about doing that down the road. In fact the custom body that I had painted was originally ordered with that body. I changed it just because I had a feeling it would not work. I'm glad I did, and now you confirmed it.
thanks again,
Mike.

Yeah the one I got says Savage only on the header tag because the other one fits Maxx, Revo and Savage. Really makes me want to get the right one and still do my plan because your truck looks really sweet with that shell on it. His true fire work is amazing.

That is cool those shocks work good, I think they look great. Nice alternative to the older Maxx Powerstrokes in the past.

cmac · 10.12.2011, 08:35 PM

Yes I was going to go with the powerstrokes, but could not find a decent set at the time so I decided to go with the PL's and so far they have been working well. Thanks for the compliment, I think they turned out better than I thought they would.

cmac · 10.22.2011, 12:49 PM

OK. so I was driving the truck again this morning and I am still having some trouble with the steering. The truck goes straight when driving at moderate speed, but pulls hard to the right under full acceleration. So I decided to try just one servo at a time. Left front servo alone, still pulls some, but not as bad. Right servo alone will barely will turn the truck to the right, turns to the left fine. I think the right servo is bad. I am still waiting for the Hitec 9380's to come out, and I'm afraid I will have to wait until next year. I think I'm going to get a pair of 7955's that I will transfer over to my plastic Emaxx when the 9380's come out. Does anyone have experience with the 7955's? I really don't want to use an external BEC, and I'm hoping that I can use two of these without any issues. I know that a lot of you guys are going to say just use one servo, but I'm stubborn I want this truck a certain way. I just want to try to make two servos work. Any feedback will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks guys,
Mike.

Overdriven · 05:21 PM

As long as the servos aren't fighting each other too bad and you have the endpoints set right you won't need an external BEC. I've tested a couple servos and only saw amp spikes over 1amp with bad end points or when the servo was stalled. Constant draw was closer to .5amp with everything working properly, and the MMM BEC is rated for 5amps. I've never tried the 7955's but I hear they are very nice servos, I'm kind of a JR fan myself.

Just out of curiousity, what weight fluid did you put in the diffs. I have a problem with mine unloading a little and under hard acceleration the truck will kind of drift to one side. It's not exactly a pull, more a drift, but it does change direction a bit. I know putting in some heavier fluid will solve it, just haven't gotten around to it.

cmac · 08:27 AM

I have 7000k in the front 5000k in the rear, and 300,000 in the slipper. After I found the bad servo I decided to put a fourth wave spring on the slipperential. It would still slip a little under very hard acceleration. So I think I will have a little more flexibility with adjustments of the clutch. I will let you guys know how it works out.

cmac · 10.26.2011, 07:34 PM

Another short test drive today, and the 4th wave spring in the Slipperential makes all the difference in the world. It will throw the front wheels up in the air at will. No slip at all. I have it locked almost all the way. I will let up on the slipper so I can have just a little bit of slip. I don't want to have any problems when landing jumps on the throttle. It acts just like my plastic brushless Emaxx without the broken drive shafts and bulkheads.

I can't believe it considering it is 13lbs!!!!!. I still have to order my Hitec 7955 servos as this is nearly impossible to keep straight

I think it will be near perfect once that is worked out.

George16 · 10.27.2011, 07:43 AM

I had used a 7955 in one of my trucks and one is plenty enough to turn the wheels. No need to install a second servo.

cmac · 10.27.2011, 10:37 PM

well I think I'm going to try to finish my original Emaxx (3908). I have UE diff covers, FLM bulkheads (regular) and RPM arms that I will use (Tru-track rears). I'm going to use the Traxxas metal CVD's that I have until they break. I will use FLM stock dog bones. I'm going to do dual servo savers (stock plastic ones) on this truck as well. I also will use the red anodized Traxxas trunbuckles, and the red anodized 17mm traxxas hexes that I was going to use on my full Metal Maxx. I'm going to use the stock transmission, I'm going to take it apart to make sure everything is perfect, and I'm going to use Gorilla Snawt grease on the gears. I'm also going to use the heavy duty anodized slipper clutch . I just need to pick up a used MMM 2200kv motor and ESC on ebay. I also just got my "free" Futaba receiver that I got for buying the 4 PKS. So I should be good to go. I won't do a build thread on this one , but I will post pics from time to time. This should be a real good basher!!!!

thirdcliff · 02:00 PM

Sounds like a pretty sweet second truck! You should start another build thread for that project.

Hey Mike, I just ordered my slipperential and UCD mount and I already got the Ofna 131mm and the Duratrax 83mm center shafts. I was going to see if you could measure the holes where you mounted the UCD mount onto the center skid plate for me, so I could use the same center shafts?

(Pretty Please!!) Also, do I need to contact Monster Mike about obtaining the right length upper bracket for the UCD mount? As I noticed you had problems with fitting the slipperential into the UCD mount on page 3.

Any help here will get me going a little smoother. Thanks in advance, and I am going to start my build soon and hope to finish over the winter time while work is slow.

cmac · 12:33 AM

Hey cliff,
here you go. Keep in mind that I used the FLM center skid plate, and the measurements are from the center of the holes to the first edge of the plate, (there is a beveled edge) not the very edge of the plate. The template that came with my motor mount must have been for an older version of the motor mount as the holes did not line up to my assembled mount. I assembled the mount and made my own template. I'm not going to do a full build thread, but I will post some pics along the way. Good to know your starting your build. As far as the top plate I think mike had some top plates go out that were the wrong size. If you have the Slipper assembled it should fit in it with no play. If does not sit in it right then let Mike know. Are you using the FLM chassis? if so pay attention to where I notched the frame. You will have to do the same if you want to use the same length drive shafts. Have fun and if you have any questions I will help any way that I can.
Mike.

thirdcliff · 10.31.2011, 01:51 AM

Thanks for the help CMAC! I will be using the FLM center skid and chassis as well, so I will have to notch the chassis for sure.

Big thanks for the pic and the dimensions. I haven't ordered my center skid plate yet so when I get it I will make sure I am reading the dimensions properly.

So the slipperential comes with a couple drive cups (8mm, I believe). But are you using a couple of these (in 8mm size) to connect to the 13 tooth gear shaft for the center shafts/dogbones to fit into?
http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...RCM8mmdrivecup

cmac · 10.31.2011, 06:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thirdcliff

Thanks for the help CMAC! I will be using the FLM center skid and chassis as well, so I will have to notch the chassis for sure.

Big thanks for the pic and the dimensions. I haven't ordered my center skid plate yet so when I get it I will make sure I am reading the dimensions properly.

So the slipperential comes with a couple drive cups (8mm, I believe). But are you using a couple of these (in 8mm size) to connect to the 13 tooth gear shaft for the center shafts/dogbones to fit into?
http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...RCM8mmdrivecup

Yes I did use both drive cups ,(8mm? I'm not sure either) on the Slipper.