1:10 or 1:12 scale project wanted...

[BP-Revo]

I ordered my CRT the other day. I'm told it should be here next week. :D

[BrianG]

GD: Yeah, that about sums up my online experience! And they STILL haven't billed me for it, not that I'm complaining!

BP: That'll make 3 forum members (4 if you count Mike) that I know of that have ordered one or have one already. We just gotta get an RCM bash set up where we can all meet for a CRT.5 race day. It'll be a "special club". :)

[BP-Revo]

Looks like you guys are flying to the West Coast. :D

[BrianG]

No thanks! I hate flying - my ears always hurt for days after. Makes me grumpy. How about we all meet somewhere in the middle? Hey, Iowa is just about as "in the middle" as you can get - how convenient for me. :)

[BP-Revo]

Sure...my house is somewhere between MetalMan's and the East Coast LOL

My .5 should be here next week. Was sent fra ballistichobbies.com a few days ago but it looks like it's spending Easter in Paris. If you guys can't agree on where to have the .5 race day I can suggest Norway :027:

I hadn't seen this thread before I ordered one. Now I'm really worried. Looks like it's not as easy to convert as I hoped.

[BrianG]

It only becomes difficult to convert if you try to use a plastic spur instead of the steel one.

However, I've done about half hour of hard running with a steel spur and hardened pinion on my Hyper 8 and have no evidence of any metal-on-metal issues. It's a little early to tell, but it seems that if you have a rock solid mesh (no motor mount flex), you shouldn't have to worry about using metal on metal gears.

Since the CRT is much smaller/lighter, and will therefore use a less powerful motor, a hardened steel pinion on the stock spur should work fine. Again, it's about having a very solid mesh with no flexing. I am going to go this route for now and see how things go. But, a replacement center diff mount I ordered was supposed to be in today, but the order got messed up so it will be early next week at the earliest before I get mine done to tell for sure.

Any brand or type of pinion that are better than others?

A friend of mine is a CNC operator. He'll help me out with the motor mount. Should be able to make something that's designed to have as little flex as possible.

[BrianG]

If you use the stock Mod1 Revo spurs (36T, 38T, and 40T), use the regular pinions in Mike's store. Mike already has a Revo motor mount that goes where the stock Nitro motor goes. You can still design your own, but why re-invent the wheel? :)

BTW: The stock Nitro mount will add a lot of strength to keep the mount from flexing. Even with the optional engine bay brace, there is still some slight flex if you don't use the casted Nitro mount assembly.

Why try to make my own mount? $60 + EMS shipping ($25-30) + 25% VAT + $20 import fee VS. free motor mount. Easy choice.

[BrianG]

Ahh, yes. I forgot you were in Norway. My bad. :)

[riceman]

I think I got lost along the way here - are we talking about Mike's new REVO mount being used in the CRT? :032:

[BrianG]

No, the thread just evolved I guess. Threads have a habit of doing that here in case you haven't noticed. ;) Just be glad Serum didn't have anything to do with it or the thread would've been ruined. :)

[BP-Revo]

Well, you better not let Serum see the thread now lol...

I'm going to try to use the stock spur with a hardened pinion. I will make a brace on the motor mount on one side (both if possible) thats shaped like a triangle and will go between both "flats" on the angle peice (try imagining a box cut from one edge diagonally across to the other). I will also brace the mount against the steering servo mount. I'm basically going to make it so that the motor mount and center diff are rock solid.

I also want to see if I can incorporate some type of rear motor brace, similar to the one on Mike's Revo mount. I'll probably have him make me that one...something so small can't really cost too much.

[BrianG]

The servo mount isn't really all that solid - at least not enough to use as additional bracing IMO. Personally, I think you'd be better off supporting the rear of the motor to reduce the chance of flexing...