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BP-Revo
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11.06.2007, 10:22 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by squeeforever View Post
They've said a fix for the problem should be out "soon" almost as long as we've been expecting the MMM. I'm wondering what CC's definition of "soon" really is...
Soon = Eventually, as in, before the end of time (which is about as definite as when they will come out with nuclear reactors the size of gumballs which can power our RC's for an unlimited amount of runtime while providing enough power to reach speeds of 200mph).


BL Revo: CF G2R, LMT1940/7, 6S FP 30C Lipos, MMM, Hitec 5955TG
CRT .5: 7075 Ext Chassis, LMT1930/7, FP 25C 3S Lipos, MM
   
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MetalMan
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11.06.2007, 11:04 PM

I, for one am looking forward to GriffinRU's how-to, especially since I will be getting two of the new version MMs (non-warranty replacements from CC), and CC has the new power boards available...


SH Z-Car, Custom Crawler, 8s Savage, 12s XTM XLB 1/7 buggy, 4wd 4-link rear/IFS Pro4 truck, Custom Hyper 10 Short Course, Belt-Drive Mammoth ST 1/8 truggy, 4s 17.5 MM Pro HPI Blitz
   
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jokerjustin
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11.08.2007, 11:25 AM

well its because my neighbor decided to do som etinkering to his mamba max and broke the brains board..he cracked it in half?!?! well i bought his fet board for $.50 and now i want to make a mamba king!
i was thinking about making a wider case so i can heatsink all of the fets on it...stand them up vertcally and heasink each side of it,.... i dont know how fat apart the boards connecters can be apart though.....
   
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suicideneil
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11.09.2007, 06:49 PM

GriffinRU has a pic of his double decker MM in one of the esc threads- the boards need to be fairly close to keep any wire joint resistance issues to a minimum- might only be able to properly heat-sink one board, but then again you might be able to use a fet-clamp like someone made, and allow the heat travel through it and escape through the heatsink fins on the upper layer of the sand-wich/clamp..... that made as much sense as a drunken Irish man speaking welsh....
   
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