HOW TO: Quark Mod / LSP Conversion *PIC OVERLOAD WARNING*

[GriffinRU]

Originally Posted by zeropointbug

So have we come to agree that this is a ceramic cap? This would take away one explanation, as to reverse polarity, they aren't polarized as you probably know. I did the internal mod to mine, and I am sure that it's ceramic.

None of this makes any sense though, this is a tough one. :032:

In between, if you had one then you should better know which one.
My posts here only based on this pictures:

where capQ is capacitor under Question
capT one of tantalum caps everyone familiar with, not always with markings
and this one I am not sure if you seen this one before.

It is quite easy to identify ceramic cap from tantalum when you have it your hands or close lookup, there are couple exceptions of course, but lets not go there :)

The one under question looks more like?

[zeropointbug]

You don't think those look alike do you?

Tantalum caps almost always come with markings. I don't see why they would use a tantalum cap here, a ceramic is a better choice clearly.

griffin, that's indeed the part that blew. I called S&T earlier today, but got voicemail. I'm going to give them a call on Monday, and see if I can get someone that can tell me exactly what that component is. That should help settle the debate.

I don't have knowledge in this type of stuff as far as what kind of cap it is, or what it's ratings are.. When I need to know the facts, I ask for help haha. So we'll see what S&T says about it on Monday.
I got my body painted finally, and am about to go out to the garage to make a fan bracket for the controller/heatsink.. Then, I think everything will be completely done. I got some 1/4" acrylic, and cut them the same size as the battery, with holes for the screws and nuts to fit in, so they don't poke my batteries. and replaced my rear hub, as well as the 44t diff gear with a new 46 gear. I don't have a camera or video camera, but am still planning on racing tommorow. Last time, everything went fine, for 5min heats.. and this time, I geared up by changing the diff gear, and adding the fans will help. I know you all probably think I'm an idiot for running it w/ out replacing that component, but if it ran fine for 5min heats while it was blown last weekend, I don't see why it will have any problems this weekend, w/ the changes I've made to the truck. I don't like downtime. I'm not going to run for 30min, or run in grass, so I think I'll be ok this weekend. I'll keep you guys informed.

I don't blame you at all for running. I can't stand down time. In fact, I had to send my Compro back to Mike because it wasn't right. I haven't been able to run my Muggy in its proper form in two or three weeks (feels like months). I'm about to scrap the whole thing and just stick with vehicles that will run right on a MM and 4S.

[GriffinRU]

You don't think those look alike do you?

Tantalum caps almost always come with markings. I don't see why they would use a tantalum cap here, a ceramic is a better choice clearly.

Without close lookup on circuit I cannot tell which component fit better in which place.

There is one more device in simular package cap+fuse.

But, as A4DTM said, we will see on Monday what it is.

I raced today... I ran the buggy tires again, (which are almost worn through in the front) Got there, and w/ in 1min of practice, pinion came loose.. threadlocked it, and tried again. Servo horn came off after about another minute.. Got it going for about 5min, and I threw a rolling pin in the axle stub, and the wheel rolled across the parkinglot..

re-taped the pins in (the buggy rims' hex isn't deep enough, to cover the pin, so I'm using electrical tape to hold them in place).

Then, I set it down, and hoped it wouldn't fall apart while I went to marshal a few races.
My heat came up..
First, under acceleration, I have no steering.. I need to refill the center diff w/ heavier oil, and hopefully that will help, as now, the fronts just spin, and it's not getting enough traction as it could. The track was setup as a sort of tri-oval. one hairpin, one sweeping corner, and two sweeping 90 degree corners.
I got the holeshot EASILY, and I was faster down the back straight than any of the other trucks (for a short while in practice, I was faster than the nitro TC's on the straight :005: )
I made it 2minutes and 19 seconds, and clipped on of the boards on the outside of the sweeping corner.. ~35mph.. I broke the front suspension pin holder, and bent the suspension pin about 45 degrees. The shock cap also got ripped off, and soaked the front end in oil. oh and the sway bar looks like a pretzel. Not too bad of damage.. the CVD was fine, suspension arms were fine. just the pin and the pin holder, which I'll have to order.
After a marshal pulled it off the track, I took the transponder back to the drivers stand, as well as my freq. clip, and when I returned to the truck, there was a small crowd. I heard a couple "that thing is balls out fast", or "that's by far the fastest electric I've ever seen", ect. lol.

Does anyone know what weight oil comes in the LSP-R's shocks? or any idea what weight I should fill them up with?
Also, I'd like some stiffer springs. I haven't found which springs are which.. the truck came with black on the shocks, and a set of red, and a set of blue.. I'm fairly certain the blacks are the stiffest, but not stiff enough for me..
Also, what diff oil should I put in the center? 50, 75, or 100k?

So I had second fastest lap (fastest lap was a full second faster than me.), but I took fastest average lap time.. and finished 4th overall, because I only made it about 1/2 the race. BUT, when I hit the wall, I was in the lead..
Order the small parts, and I'll be back next weekend.. word has it, I might get to take it to a big offroad track on Saturday. That's when I'll need stiffer springs :024:

I'm Nick S

Pos---Car---Name----------Laps------Time---------Fast Lap-----Average Lap-----Leader Gap
1-----1------Nick------------37--------4m49.600-----6.970--------7.827-----------+37 Laps
2-----2------Stunt Steve----28--------4m08.520-----7.300--------8.876-----------9 Laps
3-----3------Kyle S---------23--------4m59.657-----5.438--------13.029----------14 Laps
4-----4------Nick S---------18--------2m19.170-----6.770--------7.732-----------19 Laps
5-----5------Mike Askew----9---------1m12.150-----6.970--------8.017-----------28 Laps

OH, and temps were MUCH cooler. the motor still got pretty hot, but I could keep my finger on it. and the controller/heatsink didn't get much much more than ambient. going from 16/44 to 14/46, and adding the two fans helped a ton.

Here's some pictures (camera's horrible, please excuse the quality):

The Damage:
(note the bald tires.. brand new to bald in about 20min of runtime..)



This is from the plywood wall I hit..



countersunk all the battery tray holes:


The quality is horrible, but you can kind of see the two fans mounted. the controller's zip tied to the heatsink, and that's laying on the piece of PCB, then the fan is at an angle blowing air through the heatsink from the front..
The motor heatsink is just zip tied around the motor. The red switch that's behind the center diff turns the fans on and off. You can also see the parallel adapter I made. two inputs from the batteries, and two outputs, one for fans, one for the controller.



Here's the piece of plastic I made to keep the screws from hitting the batteries. Then I put a piece of foam between the plastic and the battery, and they don't move at all once strapped in.

Hard to see, but my girlfriend has no interest in RC at all, so I made her get involved by drawing a simple picture on the hood. (she's an art student, and draws doodles all day)
It's a person w/ bandages on his arms, and says "look ma' no hands!"
kinda like my driving I suppose..

anyone? what center diff oil should i use? and what weight shock oil?

edit-
I just got off the phone w/ S&T.. They told me that they couldn't tell me what the part is, and wouldn't ship me the component for me to switch out myself..
To have it sent in, to get looked at, it'd be $25 minimum to have it tested, and then $7 or so for shipping. and then whatever they would charge to replace anything that's damaged. They also said if I wanted a new controller, I would get 1/2 off, if I sent the controller to them..
SO.. I suppose I'll just run it until someone figures out what the component is.. and replace it.. for now, I'll just run it like always.. if it goes up in smoke, I'll send it in, and think about getting a new one at 1/2 price.. but 1/2 price is still $140.. and no one knows how much the tekin or castle controllers will cost, but will most likely be better controllers..
I asked if he could tell me the part number of the component, just out of curiosity, and he said he didn't have the technical details of the controller... lies.. :019:

well w/ no clue on what to order.. I went ahead and ordered this stuff:

AMAIN:
GS Racing Pure Silicone Shock Oil 50 Wt
Mugen Silicone Diff Oil 50,000wt
RMV PBR Extra Hard Progressive Rate Truggy Spring Set (LSP, ST-R)
Hot Bodies Front/Rear Lower Suspension Pins (4), (Lightning Series)
Racers Edge Kyosho MP7.5/MP777 Front Hinge Pin Brace

TOWER:
Ofna MT3 Splits White Wheel (4)

MIKE:
Neu 1515 2.5d/F Sensorless Brushless Motor

my 1512 2.5d smooth can is for sale now btw..

[MetalMan]

I think you should be good with 50K wt. center diff oil. My buggy is running 30k, and the front tires get pretty damn big. My Revo has a 1/8 scale center diff in the center (slipperential-style) with 100k oil, and the front tires still balloon (but it will still wheelie pretty well).

[jhautz]

In my revo I'm now running a full truggy drive line with 1/8 diffs front/rear and center. So far I've tried 10K rear 25K front and 35K center and I thought it was too light. Last time out I ran 10K rear, 35K front and 60K center and I thought I was about right. It pulled out of the turn really well without totally unloading the inside wheel.

I tend to like a little heavier diff fluid than most though.


Is the off-road track you mentioned the new one out in Huntly. I've been waiting to hear when that was going to open. If you hear any news on it shoot me a PM I can t wait to get out there. Finally a track that less than an hour away! Woo! Hooooo!!!:dft003:

you both got PMs.

jhautz, I'm expecting a call from a guy named Mike that I met at Crystal Lake's Hobbytown USA. Him and a few other guys are trying to setup a track test day of sorts out in Huntley. I'll shoot you a PM as soon as I get word. I'm not sure if my truck will be running by then, but I may stop out, if you can make it.

[jnev]

Originally Posted by A4DTM

MIKE:
Neu 1515 2.5d/F Sensorless Brushless Motor

my 1512 2.5d smooth can is for sale now btw..

Sorry for the newb question... but what exactly is the difference between the Neu 1515 2.5d/F and the 1512 2.5d smooth can? Does one have a heatsink built in? I thought I heard this somewhere, but to be sure... does the "f" in 2.5d/F stand for fins? Meaning it has a built in heatsink?

Thanks. I am still learning about all these different types of motors/ESC's.

Originally Posted by ***RC***

Sorry for the newb question... but what exactly is the difference between the Neu 1515 2.5d/F and the 1512 2.5d smooth can? Does one have a heatsink built in? I thought I heard this somewhere, but to be sure... does the "f" in 2.5d/F stand for fins? Meaning it has a built in heatsink?

Thanks. I am still learning about all these different types of motors/ESC's.

yes, the F stands for finned.

the 1515 is longer than the 1512, and will have more torque, but less kv(rpm) than the 1512.
I'm going with the 1515, because I want the extra torque to turn MT tires. I've been running the buggy tires so I don't heat up the 1512 too much.