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Questions about truggy conversion -
05.09.2007, 12:39 AM
Hey guys,
I've been messing with my Muggy for a couple of months now and have come to the conclusion that it will never be what I want it to be. I went out and got a new truck today. Although it wasn't my first choice, I got an 8ight T. I wanted a Mugen, but my LHS doesn't stock parts for it, so I got what they do stock parts for. I know that it couldn't possibly worse than the Muggy, so it should be an improvement.
Anyway, I want to take a fresh approach with this conversion, so I was looking for some ideas.
The first question is how do I mount the motor? I could move the steering servo to the left side of the chassis and mount the motor toward the front of the truck on the right. Or I could put the motor on the left. Or I could put the motor on the rear right. What would make for the best weight distribution? I know that I want to run a single pack, either 4S or 5S lipo.
The next question is about the center diff. If I do wind up doing a 180 with the diff to mount the motor toward the back, I don't want to cut a new hole in the chassis. If I just shim the diff up, will there be any drawbacks.
The last question that comes to mind is about chassis flex. Not 5 minutes after I bought the 8ight, I started talking to this guy who was telling me about all of the after market crap he put on his truck to stop the chassis flex. Everything from aluminum stiffeners, to extra braces that bolt to the chassis. From what I could see, the 8ight is built pretty well. It has a really thick 7075 chassis and I could hardly get it to flex by twisting it. Is there a flex problem with the 8ight? Are there any upgrades that would be considered necessary?
I'm sure that I'll have more questions later, but that's it for now.
Thanks.
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RC-Monster Titanium
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Posts: 1,150
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: wolcott ct
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05.09.2007, 12:59 AM
Mike is suppose to have motor mounts anyday now for the 8ight. his mount will raise the diff a little so you wont have to cut a hole in the chassis. I plan on running the truck the same way as my buggy (motor on the right behind the servo and single 5s on the left side).
as for the chassis flex, you could get the aluminum chassis braces.
Kyosho SC, tekin rs, D3 17.5
Hyper 9e, mmp,tekin 1900kv
Associated sc10 4x4, novak 4.5
Last edited by gixxer; 05.09.2007 at 01:20 AM.
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Guest
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05.09.2007, 01:06 AM
gixxer, do you mean to say that your motor will be mounted on the forward portion of the chassis with the battery on the opposite side? That sounds like a good setup.
What does "anyday now" mean? A week, two weeks, more? I haven't even taken the truck out of the box yet. I promised myself that I wouldn't until I had the Muggy ready to sell. When I get that out of the way, I'll be pretty impatient about getting the 8ight up and running.
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RC-Monster Titanium
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: wolcott ct
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05.09.2007, 01:24 AM
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6650 here you will find info on mikes 8t. Mine will be done the same way. from the email I got yesterday mike said we should see them on the site in another day or so. I really hope he is able to finish them and put them up for sale that soon because I have been just looking at my truggy for weeks already. :(
The lower weight should help with the problems you were having with your mm too. I believe mike said his truck is just under 9.5lbs with a 4s 5000mah pack.
Kyosho SC, tekin rs, D3 17.5
Hyper 9e, mmp,tekin 1900kv
Associated sc10 4x4, novak 4.5
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Guest
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05.09.2007, 01:34 AM
That's good news. I'll keep an eye out. I did order a Quark and it should be here tomorrow. I hope the caps that I ordered come in too. That way I can get the Quark ready for installation. I still haven't decided on a motor yet. I have a 1515 2.5d coming in, but I'm not sure that's what I want to run. I ordered a 9XL to try out. If I like that, I may just keep the 2.5d. If it's too much, I'll let the shop sell the 2.5d and order a 1.5Y.
I do have to say that I'm really starting to like the lower kv motors. When I first started in all of this, the speed was what got me hooked, but now that I'm used to it, I'm ready to start concentrating more on my driving. The lower kv motors really take a lot of the worry out of running these electric setups for extended periods.
BTW, I'm planning on running 5S. I really like the idea of running a lower kv motor on higher voltage with less current draw. Even with all of the stress problems I was having with the Muggy, my cheapo truerc ($180 pack) never broke a sweat and the system was pushing enough power to blow out the front diffs. If I can keep running the higher voltage, I may never pay more than $200 for a battery pack again.
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RC-Monster Titanium
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Posts: 1,150
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: wolcott ct
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05.09.2007, 01:42 AM
right now I am still running a 9xl in the buggy. It is more power then I need to race with though, but fun for the house. I picked up a 1512 3d (1700kv) motor that I will try in the truggy. I am also thinking of picking up a 1512 2y (1400kv) or 1515 1.5y (1500kv) motor.
Kyosho SC, tekin rs, D3 17.5
Hyper 9e, mmp,tekin 1900kv
Associated sc10 4x4, novak 4.5
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Guest
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05.09.2007, 01:45 AM
Then you're thinking along the same lines that I am. I talked to Mike a while back about the Neu motors, and he said that although the 1512 might be enough, he'd definitely recommend the 1515 for a truck, for cooler running and more torque.
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RC-Monster Titanium
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Location: wolcott ct
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05.09.2007, 01:50 AM
yeah thats what I was thinking but since I already bought the 1512 I will try it. If it runs hot I will just put it in the buggy and order the 1515 for the truck. actually the reason I ordered the 1512 3d was because everyone was out of the 1515 2.5.
I know hotandcold just set up his truggy (believe its a crt) with the 2y on 5s and said he liked it. He said it was geared for 36mph and got warm but not hot.
Kyosho SC, tekin rs, D3 17.5
Hyper 9e, mmp,tekin 1900kv
Associated sc10 4x4, novak 4.5
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Guest
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05.09.2007, 01:58 AM
gixxer, what do you think about the Nue smooth can motors? Are the cooling fins really necessary?
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RC-Monster Titanium
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: wolcott ct
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05.09.2007, 02:03 AM
i really cant answer that. I haven't even tried the neu yet. I am planning on waiting for the motor mount and trying it in the truggy. sorry.
Kyosho SC, tekin rs, D3 17.5
Hyper 9e, mmp,tekin 1900kv
Associated sc10 4x4, novak 4.5
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RC-Monster Titanium
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Posts: 1,025
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Prague, Czech Republic
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05.09.2007, 02:06 AM
Neu 1512 has plenty of torque for a truck and runs cool. My maxx will flips on acceleration if I am not carefull and its 14lbs (6.5kg)
Radek
V4 D8 - RX8, XERUN 4168SD
F1-09 - Tekin RS Pro, 17.5t Redline, 2S LiPo
Sakura Zero S - LRP, Saturn 20T, 2S LiPo
*EX-10 Eurus*
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Guest
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05.09.2007, 02:10 AM
14lbs? What do you have in that thing to make is so heavy. My Muggy doesn't weigh that much.
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RC-Monster Titanium
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: wolcott ct
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05.09.2007, 02:13 AM
aangle, looking at his sig it appears he is running 16cells. that would probably add another pound over your lipo pack.
Kyosho SC, tekin rs, D3 17.5
Hyper 9e, mmp,tekin 1900kv
Associated sc10 4x4, novak 4.5
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RC-Monster Titanium
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Posts: 1,025
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Prague, Czech Republic
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05.09.2007, 02:24 AM
Well 16 intellect cells 2.3lbs
4 bigjoes on commandos another 4.4lbs
I used to have problems with tires becasue of all the power as Talons that I loved on stock maxx could not get a decent grip on gravel where I used to bash.
1512 is same amount of power as Lehner 1940 and 1515 compares to 1950 at least people say
Radek
V4 D8 - RX8, XERUN 4168SD
F1-09 - Tekin RS Pro, 17.5t Redline, 2S LiPo
Sakura Zero S - LRP, Saturn 20T, 2S LiPo
*EX-10 Eurus*
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Guest
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05.09.2007, 02:35 AM
My lipo pack is a 5S2P 8Ah pack and it comes in at just over 2 lbs. LOL.
I find this interesting, because I was on the phone with the guys at Quark yesterday, and the guy told me that my Muggy was too heavy for the Quark. That's one of the reasons that I got the 8ight.
Hey, maybe I could just put the Quark in the Muggy for bashing and run a MM on 4S in the 8ight with the 8XL.
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