new bashing chassis?

[ClodMaxx]

a few updates:
* ripped another set of gorilla straps. that's it - i'm done with them, and refuse to double up to prevent this. i think i found a winner as a replacement. 2" x 24" strips of heavy-duty velcro with a buckle on one end, much like the buckle of the gorilla straps. i'll wind both ends through the outer most battery vent holes in the FLM chassis - it'll loop all the way around the chassis to hold the batteries. i paid $10 for 12 of them, so i'll have lots of spares. i don't have them yet; i'll post results once i get them.

* thought the 'correct' rear dogbone length for the FLM chassis was 105mm, so i hunted and searched for quite a while for the UE ti ones (they're out of stock). i finally managed to get one, only to find out that is the exact same length as the hardened steel one... so there is still a lot of front to back play. UE makes a 110mm one, which seems about right. and it's in stock. i may try that.

* supershocks: bought them, assembled them, and.... WOW. i had the extra firm springs on the powerstrokes, and i now have the black (heaviest) springs on the rear and the blue (next lightest) in the front. i can't say i notice any handling improvement over the powerstrokes, but they are much more durable with longer travel.

* body posts: still the weakest point on the truck, and it makes sense that they should be as it's the easiest and cheapest thing to replace. but seriously - if my truck ever flips on it's back, they snap like kindling every time. i'm using the rc-raven 'flexible' body posts which don't fit snug inside the UE knucklehead shock post mounts... is there a better answer? i know not to go aluminum. i guess it's the price i have to pay for a relatively heavy (12 lb) truck.

i also snagged a good deal on a Lehner 1940/7 hi-amp motor, and i plan to hold out for the MMM esc, no matter how long it takes. :027: