RC-Monster Forums  

Go Back   RC-Monster Forums > Support Forums > Brushless

Reply
 
Thread Tools Rate Thread Display Modes
Old
  (#1)
AAngel
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
06.08.2007, 10:33 AM

Brian, "wow" wasn't the word that I used. LOL

I'm tired of messing with it. I put the MM back into the truck and will run it until my Neu gets back. Then I'll pull the Quark apart and do the mod.

BTW, I did find the little note in the Quark manual saying that if you need finer low speed control, you should narrow the neutral range, so this is probably why zpb has such fine low speed control and I don't. They do warn that running a narrow neutral range can cause cogging. I'll have to try it.
   
Reply With Quote
Old
  (#2)
BliPoRaceR
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
06.08.2007, 12:04 PM

O.K. I've been out of town unexpectedly, so....


Zeropointbug- Do you still want the quark I killed????

I have read somewhere that having extra CAPS only works good if they are "on top of" the FETS- I also read somewhere that it is BAD to have the CAPS "very far from" the FETS. (something about extra resistance - I dont remember) These were posts from consumers, nothing official...

I put 4 caps directly on my board where the other 2 caps connect. (1 next to and 3 across from. yes they stick out the side...) I replaced the sticky pads with thermal epoxy, and epoxied the case to the rcmonster heatsink (no fan but it is connected to the chassis and gets good air flow)

I just set up my new NEU 1512 2.5D smooth can with a 6200 5S4P maxamps in my 8ight buggy with 13/46 - the quark setting are all hot (Its a bit jumpy, I'll probly soften the torque)

I ran it HARD and FAST (faster then that buggy has ever been) for about 30 min - Motor = 165* or so, Batteries = 110*, Quark = 145* (it was 94* weather)

Some tuning and a motor heatsink will only make it better!!:017:
   
Reply With Quote
Pics..
Old
  (#3)
BliPoRaceR
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Pics.. - 06.08.2007, 01:10 PM

Some pics of my mods...

the heatsink bolts into the frame at the engine mount holes (a bit of notching and it fits) the small piece of duct tape keeps the top cover from sliding forward...you can also see the CAPS are epoxied together (they are quite stable and fairly out of reach of the lid)

Click image for larger version

Name:	100_1093.JPG
Views:	22
Size:	297.1 KB
ID:	3046


here you can see the notch in the side extends halfway across the bottom, exposing the solder point for the positive side of the CAPS and power input (otherwise this is unaccesable after the epoxy sets...) (yes i need new diff)

Click image for larger version

Name:	100_1095.JPG
Views:	19
Size:	335.3 KB
ID:	3047



I like the low, centered COG with this install. The top 3 CAPS are along the center line and it all fits nicly under the top. Looks like I have a 'punk' Quark! (it has a mohawk)
Handling is spot-on and balance is very close. (need to change reciever pack and location for spot-on balance)
   
Reply With Quote
Old
  (#4)
BrianG
RC-Monster Admin
 
BrianG's Avatar
 
Offline
Posts: 14,609
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Des Moines, IA
06.08.2007, 03:20 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by AAngel
BTW, I did find the little note in the Quark manual saying that if you need finer low speed control, you should narrow the neutral range, so this is probably why zpb has such fine low speed control and I don't. They do warn that running a narrow neutral range can cause cogging. I'll have to try it.
Yeah, I narrowed my neutral range and can go VERY slow without cogging.

About the floating PCB; I kinda figured. Makes sense that it wasn't cooling if the FETs weren't even attached to the case! I know it's kind of a crappy solution, but S&T probably uses the pad so that they can remove it easily for service. Unfortunately, it doesn't last long. Once you do the "internal mod", your heat problems should be over. I say "should" because with your luck, it won't work. ;)

Adding caps should help even more...
  Send a message via Yahoo to BrianG Send a message via MSN to BrianG  
Reply With Quote
Old
  (#5)
zeropointbug
Z-Pinch racer
 
zeropointbug's Avatar
 
Offline
Posts: 3,141
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: SK, Canada
06.08.2007, 03:40 PM

Yes, I had the narrow neutral range as well, that's why.

AAngel, my FET heat spreader was the very same as that! It was only touching half of the FET's, and the PCB moved around easy (slack). But I am thinking that the caps leads being GONE had something to do with it starting on fire.

Are you sure you don't want to wait for my custom quark case for yours? If not, maybe you should epoxy the top FET heat spreader as well, to increase thermal conductivity (power spikes).

I also received the 30 caps this morning, I have the day off so I will see what I can do for a cap bank.:)

Let me know if you are going to do as far as the 'mod', or if you might want my case.


“The modern astrophysical concept that ascribes the sun’s energy to thermonuclear reactions deep in the solar interior is contradicted by nearly every observable aspect of the sun.” —Ralph E. Juergens
   
Reply With Quote
Old
  (#6)
cemetery gates
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
06.08.2007, 04:19 PM

Since we are on the topic of Quarks here...

I bought some 1000uf 35v 85c caps for my quark. Can I use these with out damage to my quark? Also I am putting a custom heatsink on it too. I'll post pics of it later...

Thanks!

Bye:018:
   
Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump







Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
vBulletin Skin developed by: vBStyles.com