cogging and immediate heating

[Maxxman]

Hi guys

I have an e-maxx quark, feigao 8xl, strobe, 16t pinion, ue driveline and 2x 5s A123.

I plugged it all together, gently pushed the throttle and it stuttered. tried taking off at different amounts of throttle still cogged. I had a quick look over and it smelt like something melted. The quark was surprisingly hot and so were the motor and input wires as well as the motor.

This was all after about half a minute.

There was nothing sticking in the drivetrain and it all looks ok but don't know what to do?

Any ideas

Thanks

[gixxer]

did you disable the bec by removing the red wire?

[lutach]

I had the same issue yesterday. I was running my truck with the MM in it and after a couple of minutes it started cogging a lot and it stopped. When I got to the truck, I saw some smoke coming out of it. I thought I had burnt the MM, but the smoke was actually coming from the motor. All the wires were hot too. When I got home and took the motor out and it seems that the magnet has lost its strength and the wires looks like they heated up really good. The varnish is actually darker than the other motor I have. I have 2 similar motors. The one I didn't use yet, you can actually feel the magnets working, the one that came out of the truck spins freely.

[Maxxman]

Yeah i disabled the bec and had a seperate rx pack.

Thinking about getting a neu but don't know if it will solve the problem.

[suicideneil]

Neus are much better motors, but your problem sounds a bit worrying. May just be a bad esc that was d.o.a, or something else may be wrong (programming or something?)....

[Maxxman]

I programmed it yesterday and it went like normal.

[Maxxman]

Originally Posted by lutach

The one that came out of the truck spins freely.

Yeah I have the exact same problem as you.

What did you do?

[suicideneil]

Not much you can do if the magnet becomes de-magnetised; have to get a new rotor or a whole new motor I believe...

[Maxxman]

Thats what i assumed.
Imo a new rotor for a feigao is a bit pointless
What would demagnitise a motor and what do you do to stop it?

[suicideneil]

Excessive heat. Anything over about 190-200*f I think I read once. Trouble with feigaos are that they do run hot under ideal circumstances, so are prone to overheating during a hard session, or in your case they just decide to not play anymore & cook for no apparent reason.

A neu 1515 1y or 1512 2.5d are the most popular upgrades from a feigao, running 12-14 cells or 4-5s lipo/A123. Try to avoid the finned neus as they make it hard to set the mesh with a smaller spur/pinion on the stock emaxx tranny.

[Maxxman]

I like the neu's will probably go for one of the two you mentioned. I will only use the 5s a123 batts atm as lipos here are sooooo expensive.

I know neus run cooler and are better on quarks but would that solve the problem and are smooth can neus (1515 1y/2.5d)still very good at staying cool?

[suicideneil]

Absolutely, and they deal with being over/under geared better too. If you look around abit you will see that everyone who uses a neu/quark 125b combo only says good things. Bear in mind the quark has heat issues itself though, but they arent as noticeable when using it with a neu.

[lutach]

I have a Aveox in my truck now and everything is good. I have the 1412 Aveox, but I don't know what winding it is. It is in fact faster than that 2600rpm/V motor that went bad, even with a 13T pinion instead of the 15T I had previously.

[lutach]

I forgot to mention that the 2600rpm/v motor is garbage. I will probably try and my a custom motor out of it. I have some crazy idea cooking up in my head. I'll basically save the can.

[Maxxman]

So you reckon that this was a problem with the motor and nothing to do with the controller, right?