possible perfect truck? - Page 4 - RC-Monster Forums

t-maxxracer32 · 09.03.2007, 01:22 AM

well i dont think it can be diffs cause i used it before and it never did that... and the steering i dont think...hope.... its not that cause i dont know how to fix this problem lol.
it could indeed be the axle carriers. will check that once i get my part in.

anyone knwo where i can get that little pin that goes in the emaxx tranny?

Patrick · 09.03.2007, 05:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by t-maxxracer32

Anyone know where i can get that little pin that goes in the emaxx tranny?

I don't know if you can order that part. But that's ok, because one of the mods to do on the e-maxx tranny is to replace that weak roll pin with something solid, like an allen key that has been sanded a little bit to make it rounder. Make sure it's a tight fit in the hole, and maybe use a drop of loctite for less chance of it falling out.

t-maxxracer32 · 09.03.2007, 10:42 AM

maybe a dumb question but how would locktight help? im not screwing anything in...? or is locktight basically like glue just not as permanent?
how would a drop of CA work?

Getter Robo · 09.03.2007, 04:24 PM

I'd just use a longer hex bit that looks out on on both sides of the gear and bend it on both sides, carefully. The rotational force shouldn't bend it back. Well, I myself used a stock steel king pin from my Mini-Z, it's just the right size to fit into the hole and has a round flat spot on one end so you only have to bend one side.

t-maxxracer32 · 09.03.2007, 05:25 PM

i just used a drill bit and sawd it off lol. worked perfectly fine!!

did some speed runs and its good!

09.03.2007, 09:37 PM

I used a hardened drill bit and a piece of shrink tubing, like we put on our cvd's.

t-maxxracer32 · 09.04.2007, 01:14 AM

damn thats pretty smart!! ^^ i just got a drill bit and glued it in.. idk how long it will stay on for but we will finddd out!!!

Patrick · 09.05.2007, 05:09 AM

Yeah, mine has a drill bit in it as well with no loctite. I just said allen key and loctite, because when it was being talked about before most people seemed to like doing it that way. But mine hasn't broken or fallen out yet.

t-maxxracer32 · 09.05.2007, 10:09 AM

hopefully it never comes out!
so i took my front diffs last night and rebuilt it... wow... long job... about 3 hours probably lol... i drove it in my house last night because it was too dark and everything seems fine. i hope it all is because MANNN that was a long job.

Finnster · 09.05.2007, 11:46 AM

I originally used a hex key, but eventually sheared that so I redid it with a drillbit and it held up better. i bent/flattened the ends a bit and had no issues w/ them coming out. G/L

JThiessen · 09.05.2007, 01:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Finnster

I originally used a hex key, but eventually sheared that so I redid it with a drillbit and it held up better. i bent/flattened the ends a bit and had no issues w/ them coming out. G/L

So you guys that have replaced this shear pin with a different material, have you had any successive failures with any other parts "down stream" afterwards? I only question this because a shear pin has a function other than just holding two parts together. Its a designed failure mechanism.

Quote:

hopefully it never comes out!
so i took my front diffs last night and rebuilt it... wow... long job... about 3 hours probably lol... i drove it in my house last night because it was too dark and everything seems fine. i hope it all is because MANNN that was a long job.

I hear ya on that one. I had bought three different diff lubes to try, but after I got them apart, I made a firm and final decision that it was not going to be a trial and error thing. 90W it is!
On a more serious note, I'd do your diff's for you every weekend for that girl in your avitar.......

zeropointbug · 09.05.2007, 02:11 PM

I used a hard drill bit as well... once in there, I took each end to the grinding wheel to 'smudge' the bit in with the gear, so it would be impossible for it to come out.

Finnster · 09.05.2007, 02:50 PM

I don't think the rollpin was designed as a safety valve, I think its just a lame-o TRX design, good enough for titans (for a while at that.)

If anything, the weak 2mm diff screws are a breakpoint lol. I killed many stock diffs and sliders before the rollpin.

I really like my Revo, it quite tough compared to the Maxx, but I agree that TRX is prone to making lame/weak designs that need to be corrected with aftermarket parts, many of which TRX is smartly supplying. They are getting much better tho. the engineering has really come along way.

They make alot more money on supplying parts if the truck breaks just often enough not to push people away. The Revo is 95% perfect, its just a few little things like weak diffs and a few other odds and ends that need attention that quickly make a ~entry level truck make a high end truggy kit like a Mugen or Xray seem like a bargain after you get nickeled an dimed for little stuff.

BrianG · 09.05.2007, 03:21 PM

You have to admit that the TRX parts are sufficient for the stock nitro (*cough*weak*cough*) powerplant. They only show their weaknessess once you install a BL motor...

t-maxxracer32 · 09.05.2007, 03:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BrianG

You have to admit that the TRX parts are sufficient for the stock nitro (*cough*weak*cough*) powerplant. They only show their weaknessess once you install a BL motor...

ya thats true. they just werent meant for so much torque.

and ya id do the diffs for everyday to see the girl in my avatar everyday (shes my g/f and lives 3000 miles away =/)