MIP CVDs

[Nick]

I have the MIP Pro-Line CVDs and very proud of them.

However, the cup that is connected to the differential outputs is fastened by grip using 2 little hex-grub type screws.

They keep coming lose and I would of thought a small pin would go through the outputs rather than this grip technique.

Any ways of making them hold strong? Or a DIY method of holding it another way?

[Re~Mix]

Try using some locktite? I have industrial strength loctite and im afraid to use it on anything lol.

[Serum]

And use a very good key to lock it! Mine never came loose.. (till so far..)

[coolhandcountry]

My brother had same problem. He even tried lock tite. He took a small ring for plumbing. PUt it over the out side and tighten it down. The pin won't come out until you want it to. The ring is used on the plastic pipe for supply lines. LIke for a sink.

[Serum]

It's not about the pin coolhand, it is about the other side of the cup.. ;)

Just use a very good key to lock it and some loctite and you will be fine! can't you use some other pin that goes thru? i don't know what the diameter of the hole is and what thread size it has..? i have got two different pins with the screw connected to it from my savage, i would like to measure them for you?

[Nick]

I'm having a real hard time with these.

Can I get different yokes/screws that go through the out put shaft?

Locktight doesn't work. Nothing does. :(

[Serum]

Simple use a good wrench, you should be fine using that..

Or the UE output cups for the stock diffs.. they use M5 screws. Don't know about the MIPs but i can't imagine those are M5 too

[Nick]

I had a look on the UE site and they do a range of them, 5mm, 6mm and 8mm.

What I want is to be able to use the stock cup pins (that screw in and have a small bar that goes through the out buts into the cup again on the other side) elminating the grip grub screw ones.

Can you point out which UE ones I need?

[Serum]

Did you used a good wrench to tighten them? and what colour of loctite are you using? red is better in this case i think..

With a good quality long arm wrench you can tighten it really good.. No need for another thing, really..

It are the types with the 6mm hole, that fit the stock diff..

[Nick]

I used blue (Is there really a difference?). I don't like the idea of grip. It just doesn't feel right, no matter how tight I always feel it could slip once and the performance decrease when it does is much noticable.

I would much prefer the good old stock slider way, where a metal screw goes right through the cups and outputs. Seems alot stronger that way and not to sure why MIP didn't do that in the first place?

Tried to find a decent Loctite link for you...this should do -> http://www.loctite.com/int_henkel/lo...d=114&layout=3


Typically Loctite is sold in different strengths like this; blue, green, and red. Blue is the weakest, green is in the middle, and red means that you don't and won't *ever* need to unscrew those two parts again. Ever.

I use blue. Seems to work just fine. I think MIP uses blue "Loctite" in their kits...quoted Loctite cuz I'm not sure if its the brand Loctite or a knock off.

I tried green once. Put it in the CF servo plate. The plate broke and w/ the small size hex head I wasn't able to get the screws out. Being the plate was already broken (I left out two screws and raced it, my bad) I decided to "disassemble" it w/ a pair of dykes (pliars!).

I think w/ the CVD's there's probably a better alternative to thread lock. At least w/ the drive shafts there's enough clearance to use another method, the axle joints on the other hand have little to no clearance so something like a pin and grub screw may be one of the few solutions.

[edit]
btw, what kind of hex wrenches are you people using? I hate the cheapies that I have and want to get a good kit w/ various sizes...and stuff that won't strip!
[/edit]

[Serum]

i use PB hexes.

Best you can get here in Europe..