Making an esc better?

[suicideneil]

Photobucket works great for fairly large pictures upto 1024 x 768 and its free. Just take your pictures and tranfer them to your PC/laptop, save them as a .jpeg file, then after signing upto photobucket upload the pictures. It allows you to specify a maximum size/resolution so you can either post normal sized pictures directly onto the forums (copy and paste image code which is below pictures), or you can post a link to a much large picture in your photobucket album. Piece of cake really.

[DrKnow65]

here goes...
esc befor all the assembly.


A pic of the completed esc before shrinkwrap, it is 90x32x32mm, went with mounting the caps inline with the power board to ensure unrestricted air flow, makes it 20mm longer... might use 6 smaller caps mounted 90' to the power board like originals if I find this too long for the other cars it will go into.


You can see the front fan better in this photo (note, far right, the 18awg red and black wires are power to the fans, the silver wire is the shielded throttle signal wire from the reciever -deleted the red+black power and ground wires, and you can see the esc power switch and 24awg wires-twisted ones at top)


Here is a view of the "brain side" you can see the caps and extended buss wires better in this pic (note, I heatsinked the fet drivers and the esc's bec circuit which I understand still powers the esc "brains") and the unit is mounted to a thin piece of brass on the bottom to make it easier to keep everything intact while the heatshrink goes on.


Last photo is with the esc temporarily wrapped in electrical tape mounted in my XXXT untill my heatshrink shows up. So pleased it is still alive after doing all the soldering work to it :) :) :) (you can see the led's good when it's not wrapped in black electrical tape)


I have also rewired the CC BEC, reciever, and steering servo with isolated 18awg power wires (with caps on each leg) and shielded signal wires, that are not shown in this photo.

[micke_b]

VERY interesting thread guys!

But just a quick question: How do you remove you MM heat sink the best way? You seems to have done it a couple of time.

Originally Posted by Serum

I am not surprised by the useless cells you used on your hvmaxx!!!!

are they updated with the sintered rotor? i guess not?

I'll shoot a movie of my hvmaxx 4400 powered maxx on 4S lipo.. You will be surprised.



@griffinru;

Thanks for the write-up.!

It was 2 stock hv 4400's.(stock rotor)

I actually have my hv-maxx in my crt.5ext now with 4s lipo. I have it geared high(50mph using the lowest hardened pinion I have), but my MM/10L on 4s has much better acceleration and mid-range power; the hv-maxx is much much smoother though, a more pleasurable driving experience.

@ griffinru,

how would I go about putting the sensor from the hv-maxx on my feigao 10L, if it is possible? My hv-maxx is much smoother then my MM/10L setup. I feel it is better for racing. The hv-maxx just doesn't have the power I'm looking for....

Thanks!

[DrKnow65]

Heatsink was never properly attached on mine (there was a little resistor under one of the fet's that kept it from sitting flush) that was the prompt for my modding... Have read about heating, freezing, and good ole manual labor. Seems to me that the thermal epoxy gets softer with the esc hot, no matter what you do it seems CAFREFULLY working a thin razor blade between the heatsink and fet's is the thing to do.

I'd wait for a reply from Artur, Steve, or lincpimp though ;)

[GriffinRU]

Sorry for Delay...

Nice job DrKnow65, creative and open minded!

@ griffinru,

how would I go about putting the sensor from the hv-maxx on my feigao 10L, if it is possible? My hv-maxx is much smoother then my MM/10L setup. I feel it is better for racing. The hv-maxx just doesn't have the power I'm looking for....

If you do not want to use slave configuration, then it would be a little bit painful. Old generation Feigao motors, with thinner end cap would be almost impossible, unless you made a custom end-cap. Then you need to add sensors, i.e custom pcb with hall sensors... If you can do all this, then yes it is possible. Otherwise use slave configuration or order from Feigao sensored version.

But just a quick question: How do you remove you MM heat sink the best way? You seems to have done it a couple of time.

Heatgun and a razor blade.

Originally Posted by GriffinRU

If you do not want to use slave configuration, then it would be a little bit painful. Old generation Feigao motors, with thinner end cap would be almost impossible, unless you made a custom end-cap. Then you need to add sensors, i.e custom pcb with hall sensors... If you can do all this, then yes it is possible. Otherwise use slave configuration or order from Feigao sensored version.

Ok, thanks. I thought it might be possible to remove the sensor/endcap from the HV-maxx motor, it looks like its much more trouble than its worth.

Thanks again!

Bye

[suicideneil]

Take a look at this....


Thats the rear endbell of a hvmaxx motor, I think its specifically designed for the 380 sized magnet of the 2 pole motor.

[BrianG]

Wow, seems like a lot of extra room for nothing.

[suicideneil]

Agreed. Its made me think a little bit (run for cover!)- the hvmaxx motor is about 70mm long, yet the sensors and end bell take up so much room, that the magnet only actually measures 45mm long x 14mm diameter. Anyone care to compare their feigao L and XL magnets if they have some motors laying around? My theory is a 380 XL motor would be just as powerful as the hvmaxx, and run about the same temp in a sensible size/weight/geared vehicle. And be a damn sight cheaper to boot if coupled with a suitable esc on 4s/ 12 cells.....

[lutach]

Here are some pics:

http://www.rcpics.net/view_single.php?medid=85850
http://www.rcpics.net/view_single.php?medid=85849

[suicideneil]

Hmmmmmm. It looks like its just a smaller diameter- that giant silver motor, is that 72mm long, or is it longer than a normal feigao type XL motor ( it looks a lot longer )?

[lutach]

The big one is like the Great Planes Ammo 36-88-1280 http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXLXA1&P=7 and it is 88mm long. It is a beast of a motor and I punished 2 of them and I'm saving the third for something mild. The first one I tried with 36 volts and it lasted longer then I thought. The second one I kind of shorted with a mounting screw that was just a tad longer. They have the strongest magnets I've seen in a brushless motor.

[suicideneil]

Cool. Shame they only have the one kv rating for that size, otherwise one would need a hv plane or boat esc to run it properly. The Kb45s look great too, but they are out of stock everywhere pretty much, and the odd shaft size/ mounting pattern is a draw back. Weird, I was thinking last night about a cheap forward/brakes Bl setup using a cheap BL motor and esc, just for a bit of fununtil something decent comes along; just as I get motivated enough to want to try this out, eveywhere is out of stock of good cheap motors.... its a conspiracy I tells ye...

[lutach]

Try one of this:

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idProduct=5422
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idProduct=5421
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idProduct=5420

They are like the Align 600L, but cheaper.