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Shafts 3.3 or cvds???
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mkrusedc
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Shafts 3.3 or cvds??? - 01.02.2008, 12:48 AM

So what do you think? I have to change the out drives on my diffs either way, but can't decide. I have both type of drive shafts what should I go with?

3.3s are lighter, but not as strong.

cvds are heavier but stronger.

Decisions decisions??

Thanks for the advice.

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jnev
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01.02.2008, 02:21 AM

If the CVD's are stronger then I'd say go for them. I don't think the extra weight will hurt the truck power wise with the set up you running......


   
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bluonyx
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01.02.2008, 03:14 AM

I twisted two sets of 3.3 shafts so I went with the Traxxas CVD's. I thought 3.3 shafts were unbreakable but they're still plastic. No problems since.
   
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Patrick
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01.02.2008, 03:35 AM

Don't the traxxas cvd's and sliders both use the same outdrive since they're both made to fit traxxas diffs? So if you have both you may as well try both and see which you like better.
You could put the sliders on the front since they don't need to be as strong and use the cvd's on the rear. Then you have a spare set.


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wallot
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01.02.2008, 05:02 AM

I always had CVDs till I got RPM arms and bent like 3 of them so I moved to sliders and no problems since. They handle brushless power with ease and only problem is arm clearance as they are so thick. This does not matter right now that much as my maxx is in race mode.


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Last edited by wallot; 01.02.2008 at 05:04 AM.
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starscream
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01.02.2008, 06:28 AM

The revo sliders have stood up to all my BL racing setups and come to think of it, I haven't actually seen anyone twist/break a slider when running a racing setup.

If you are able to twist one then I would consider putting your revo on a diet

Running a center diff will also help unload stress to the sliders.


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01.02.2008, 03:37 PM

Amen to that.

The 3.3 shafts are tough; the only problem are the carriers; they tend to go from time to time. They are cheap to replace. I never saw a 3.3 shaft imitating a pretzel. Plus they are cheap and easy to replace.
   
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mkrusedc
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01.02.2008, 03:53 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick View Post
Don't the traxxas cvd's and sliders both use the same outdrive since they're both made to fit traxxas diffs? So if you have both you may as well try both and see which you like better.
You could put the sliders on the front since they don't need to be as strong and use the cvd's on the rear. Then you have a spare set.
The 3.3 use a stub out put and the cvd's use a cup for the dogbone.


Thanks for all the input. I think I'll install the stub and start with the 3.3.
   
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wallot
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01.02.2008, 03:57 PM

I got rid of original axle carriers right after first pivot ball popped out after a small crash. they got replaced by New Era Models ones and those things are tough and use oversized bearings both inner and outer


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Patrick
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01.03.2008, 01:46 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by mkrusedc View Post
The 3.3 use a stub out put and the cvd's use a cup for the dogbone.


Thanks for all the input. I think I'll install the stub and start with the 3.3.
Do you have a picture? I don't really understand the problem, don't the traxxas cups for the dogbone (not the outdrives that come with the HB diffs), fit to the diff output the same way the sliders do, since they're both made to fit traxxas diffs they should be similar. Either way you'd have to use Mike's stub adapter things.


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Last edited by Patrick; 01.03.2008 at 01:49 AM.
   
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mkrusedc
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01.03.2008, 12:15 PM

Cup and bone:



3.3 shaft. The stub adapter is neede to fit the right side of the pic below:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXMJG8&P=7

Last edited by mkrusedc; 01.03.2008 at 12:16 PM.
   
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lincpimp
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01.03.2008, 12:50 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by mkrusedc View Post
Cup and bone:



3.3 shaft. The stub adapter is neede to fit the right side of the pic below:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXMJG8&P=7
I see your problem, you are using a hybrid bulk with a hb or similar diff that has the drive cups integrated with the output shaft. The cups that come with the cvds you are using are designed to mount up to a stock maxx diff output. They are longer than what you have now, due to the need for some method of attaching the cup to the diff output, probably a set screw. This would place the cup out another 1/4 inch or more thus taking up the slack. You would need to buy mike's diff adapter shafts and then put the cups on them to get the correct spacing. I am not 100% sure that the revo diff outputs will fit with the cups you have, never thied this, but I have to do the same on my racebomb. I have ths cvds and the ball end is too big for the hb cup, so I bought a set of mike's adapter shafts and plan to use them and the ths supplied cups, hope it works!
   
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GorillaMaxx360
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01.03.2008, 01:26 PM

lincpimp I believe you are right I use the same setup on my maxx only with the mip cvds. It has the same problem with spacing, but because I am racing my maxx and I am running it just a tad higher than bones level it rests inside the cup perfect. If I extended the arms fully they would fall out, but since I run them bones level they are fine. I also have the adapters mike sells but have not used them, but it seems if i did it would fix the problem because the mip outdrives are longer and should fix the problem. I just don't feel like rebuilding the diff for the 5 time and it works for my application.

Last edited by GorillaMaxx360; 01.03.2008 at 01:29 PM.
   
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mkrusedc
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01.03.2008, 01:30 PM

I am a basher and need the travel. Here is what it looks like level:

   
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lincpimp
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01.03.2008, 01:52 PM

Once you put the shafts in the diffs you should be ok to run the cups that came with the cvds, they will be longer than the hb diff cups.
   
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