Direct Drive to Diff E Revo Build

[lincpimp]

If the design will allow for the bearings to be placed up against each other you may be able to make enough room for the cf washer. I have a pair of the hybrid diff cases at work, I will have to take one apart and see how it looks, even though Sike needs to dissassemble the diff again to replace the bearings.

[suicideneil]

Stupid as this may sound, but would a carefully shimmed bushing resist falling apart any better? I know they are rather poor for high speed applications, but since they are a solid piece of metal there isnt anything to break as such...

Those videos really do belong on BYT, Im sure the guys would appreciate seeing how powerful BL power is when its done right- love that truck.

[sikeston34m]

Originally Posted by suicideneil

Stupid as this may sound, but would a carefully shimmed bushing resist falling apart any better? I know they are rather poor for high speed applications, but since they are a solid piece of metal there isnt anything to break as such...

Those videos really do belong on BYT, Im sure the guys would appreciate seeing how powerful BL power is when its done right- love that truck.

I'm not sure if a bushing would work better or not. We're dealing with really huge side AND thrust loads at that point.

Thanks for the Compliements.

I'm trying to reprocess on the setup actually. Is there a way to eliminate the ring and pinion? We've just about eliminated everything else with this setup.

How about a center mounted motor that spins the front and rear spider cups with a ribbed drive belt? Such as seen in alot of on road cars. I wonder how tough the belt setup is?

Hmmmmmmm.............thinking thinking

[lincpimp]

I am sure that the secondary drive belt from a harley would be able to hold up to the power, may be a bit overkill though...

You could do a chain drive, put some hardened steel spur gears on the diff cups, and use a bicycle chain, that is the correct size (would have to be smaller than the bicycle chain, but you get the idea). Then drive the center of the chain with another steel gear that mount to the motor. Only problem may be the sizes of the gears. You currently have 10/43 gearing. Finding a slightly larger steel spur for the diffs will not be an issue, a 46 would work and not be too big. But you would have to use an 11t pinion on the motor and somehow make sure the chain would stay in contact, maybe some spring loaded idlers? Sounding kind off complicated now. Maybe investigate the possibility of a needle roller bearing in the correct size?

[Mod Man]

A bushing would not be a bad idea. It would require alot of lube and need replacement often. But, hey, a top fueller needs maintenance from time to time!

[JERRY2KONE]

You know Sikes you might be on to something. If a belt drive was strong enough and efficient enough to drive a 700lb motorcycle, then why not come up with a scale size belt for our trucks that fits the same sort of specs? It would make things quite a bit easier for the 4X4 setup of the types of vehicles we run. Just think of it. two Harley style belts that could run directly from the motor to the drive axles. Maybe using a slipper or clutch type motor drive.

[Mod Man]

I use belts all the time. They are tough enough for this application. Space is an issue, though (for the design you guys are discussing).

[team3six]

Your kidding right? You guys might want to check into the Belt driven RC's for idea's to make that work for you. They even have kevlar belts now for the belt driven RC's. I am possitive some of those belts are the sizes you need. and long term effect word be way better then it was 3 years ago when we were streatching out belts left and right.

[DrKnow65]

Don't know how or where you would get it but a ceramic bushing would be worth considering. Ceramic has a very low drag coefficient and does not expand with heat. I.E. no lube required and it's too hard to wear out any time soon. Besides this is a "wet" diff right? So even the metal bushing would last a while right?

[its me]

Hey sikes any updates?

[sikeston34m]

Sorry, No updates in awhile.

I'm going to install the 13/43 Hot Bodies gearing in the Revo diffs. The Custom Wye Wind performs almost like it's undergeared on the 10/43 gearing. (which doesn't hold up btw)

So I'm gonna trade the 4.3:1 ratio for the 3.3:1 ratio. I believe the Custom Wye wound 4130 will still start just fine. And IF it doesn't, I believe the Kontronik Jazz will. I just learned that they are very smooth with outrunners.

I've really been watching/waiting for Tower Hobbies to get the 2 speed kit in the for E maxx. I was gonna put all of this into one order. BUT they just bumped the "delivery" date up to Late Feb. *Sigh*

[JERRY2KONE]

Yea it sucks when they do that, but we all know it is due to some delivery issues beyond their controls. Some items go on for months like that, because they cannot get the items from their suppiers when they would like. We are all still looking forward to hearing about your testing with this one Sikes. Thank you for sharing it with us.

[its me]

Originally Posted by sikeston34m

Sorry, No updates in awhile.

I'm going to install the 13/43 Hot Bodies gearing in the Revo diffs. The Custom Wye Wind performs almost like it's undergeared on the 10/43 gearing. (which doesn't hold up btw)

So I'm gonna trade the 4.3:1 ratio for the 3.3:1 ratio. I believe the Custom Wye wound 4130 will still start just fine. And IF it doesn't, I believe the Kontronik Jazz will. I just learned that they are very smooth with outrunners.

I've really been watching/waiting for Tower Hobbies to get the 2 speed kit in the for E maxx. I was gonna put all of this into one order. BUT they just bumped the "delivery" date up to Late Feb. *Sigh*

Well keep up the good work man! im learning alot from reading your threads

[sikeston34m]

Originally Posted by its me

Well keep up the good work man! im learning alot from reading your threads

Thank you.

I placed the Tower Hobbies order for the 3.3:1 Regular cut gears.

I believe I can get this to hold up as long as I use them. They will side load the pinion bearings instead of loading them like a thrust bearing does.

[sikeston34m]

Ok, it was as I suspected. The Pinion side bearings center race was punched out from the load. The other pinion bearing appears to be in fair shape.



I have a pretty good feeling about these new gears. The ring looks alot tougher compared to the old one.


Here's where the difference is! Notice how these pinions compare? I like how tough the new one looks. The teeth are much bigger and straight cut. I think this has a chance. LOL