Unexplainable cogging - RC-Monster Forums

jnev · **Unexplainable cogging -** 02.08.2008, 08:48 PM

I am not sure how many of you remember me talking about my broken 9xl motor (magnet came off the shaft), but anyway, Mike sent me a brand new replacement.

So I installed the new motor, and since I did not have the right plugs, I made an adapter from the motor to the ESC 5.5mm plugs just to test if it works or not. I used a small copper stick that was a tight fit into the ESC plugs, and soldered wire on the other end of the copper stick to the motor wires. The first couple times the ESC would not arm/beep or anything for some reason. But after multiple tries, it finally did. It worked great for about 2 minutes, until it stopped dead in its tracks.

Every time I press the throttle it cogs like nothing else. Even in the air I can't even accelerate. The wheels just go back and forth and the car doesn't move at all. So I brought it in and nothing smells fried or burnt or anything. I unplug everything and turn it off and then plug the battery back in and turn it on, and it arms/beeps right away, but then cogs as well like it did before. I do have full steering though.

Could this problem be from a bad solder joint? Or is it possible that it is related to the ESC/motor? Before the old motor broke, everything on the truck worked flawlessly. I also have the new software installed on it.

Any help is appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Arct1k · 02.08.2008, 08:59 PM

My guess is only two motor leads are actually connecting and you might have a cold solder joint. Have you traced using a multimeter?

lxmuff · 02.08.2008, 09:02 PM

Check the wires on the board and make sure that they are not fraid under the insulation.

jnev · 02.09.2008, 01:00 AM

Thats what I thought it was. Looks like I'll just have to wait for the 5.5mm connectors in Mike's store to ship to me...

lincpimp · 02.09.2008, 02:01 AM

Direct solder the wires together, best thing to do. I had a similar issue with a used motor during testing. I almost threw it away, but could actually see the spark inside the connector. I moved it around until it made a good contact, but I will direct solder it asap. I just feel like it is one less thing to go wrong, so I solder everything together now.

02.09.2008, 02:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lincpimp

Direct solder the wires together, best thing to do. I had a similar issue with a used motor during testing. I almost threw it away, but could actually see the spark inside the connector. I moved it around until it made a good contact, but I will direct solder it asap. I just feel like it is one less thing to go wrong, so I solder everything together now.

Times 2

MetalMan · 02.10.2008, 12:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlackedOutREVO

Times 2

Times 3

jnev · 02.10.2008, 12:14 AM

I direct soldered in the past, but I switched over to bullet connectors a couple months ago just because of the convenience when taking off the motor.... But I may go back to soldering it direct, if its that much better in terms of reliability.

lincpimp · 02.10.2008, 01:19 AM

Good bullet connectors are as good as direct soldering. However they can get loose and dirty (sounds nasty, huh, lol) where as the direct soldered connection will last without failure (as long as it is done correctly).

I got sick of fixing bullet connectors, so I deleted most of mine. I just recently used some 4mm conectors to test various motors in my xxx-cr. I had purchased a used hacker 12s 540 and tied it out. It cogged and beeped away, I thought that the guy had sold me a dud motor. I was pissed, then I played with the connectors, and cured the problem! I would say that unless you use the 5.5mm connectors or larger, direct soldering is the best bet.