Brushless Associated Monster GT

[Batfish]

Thanks for the nice words :)

Now some answers and more details.

Yes, the diff is laying on it's side. Since the diff mounts are indented on the sides I figured that would be the best way to mount so I could put the motor overhead. I wanted the motor in-line in the center of the chassis, not off to one side. I would have had to mount the motor on the side if I stood the diff up normal.

There is no slipper mechanism in the drivetrain now; correct. This should be offset by the diffs overall (I hope).

The handling feels more stable to me. I think it's a result of a lower CG now. In the video I tried to get it to flip sideways and I'm very pleased that it showed no signs of doing so :)

As far as the gear ratios, hopefully one of you math-magicians can get the final stuff based on this:
A - According to AE, the MGT diffs are a 3.31 ratio.
B - According to info at Tower, the OFNA diff has (2) 18T gears and (4) 10T gears.
C - 51T spur and 15T pinion.

Here's a marked-up pic. There are descriptions of each number below the picture.


1 - Three parts that show how I mounted the diff.
*The arrows on the bottom point to underneath where I used the original OFNA center diff top plate as a template for drilling two holes to mount the diff.
*The two circles in the middle show where I cut/filed the top posts to allow the diff to fit a little better. I cut/filed about 4-5mm off and ended up putting washers in to get some of it back and even the front and back so the diff would be square with the motor.
*The drawn part on top is a piece of aluminum I had previously drilled to be my template when I was going to mount the Ultra diff in my Hyper 7. I used half of it to keep the diff from pulling the mounts apart during running.
(As a note on the diff mounting, It's currently held in by only 2 screws because I don't feel that the diff needs to be mounted as securely as in a buggy because it only serves to turn the dogbones and not as a platform for brakes or anything else.)

2 - Shows where I filed and dremelled about 2mm from the chassis to allow the spur to fit.

3 - Shows the ESC. The drawn purple is showing the foam under the ESC. I used part of a 2.2 truck tire foam shoved underneath. The zipties are run through the holes for the nitro engine mount. I'm very happy with this setup and will only change it if I have a need to mount the ESC somewhere else.

4 - Shows the fan setup. I raised the rear body posts to the second hole, which allowed for the two CPU fans to stand and be ziptied to the rear tower and post mount. I wired the two CPU fans into the battery leads on the speed controller (another great thing about PowerPoles; I just pushed the wire into the connector and taped it there :) ). The fans put out a very nice airflow on the 11-12v from 3s lipo.

5 - Shows the motor mount attachment. I used two of the original tranny mount holes on each side. The screws are long screws from my XXX-T screw kit and the 'spacers' are 8 E-Maxx wheel nuts from my E-Maxx screw kit. Using different spacers can get the mount higher or lower, plus I cut the mount to allow for moving the motor up and down about 1cm for different gearing options.

6 - Shows where I cut away the original battery box. I needed the room to mount the lipo pack. I left the plastic "wall" from the battery box as a possible mounting location if I do end up using a receiver pack at some point. I can just attach the pack to the wall via zipties or velcro.

I'll be bringing it with me when I race this coming Thursday night. I hope to get a run on the outdoor track before the indoor racing begins.

Let me know if there are any other questions :)