CRT.5 Big Bore Shocks done easy & cheap

Originally Posted by GO-RIDE.com

Cemetary Gates,

What springs are you running on the ofna front buggy shocks?

On the front with the Jato pink 1.4 springs I'm pretty much have max preload, which really isn't much because the Revo shocks are not threaded very far. I was thinking of going up to the 1.6 springs. How are the green 1.1 springs setting up?

One other thing I noticed is that if you tighten the bottom cap tight on the revo shocks it creates a lot of drag btwn the shock shaft and seal. I'm thinking of puting a small oring or thin nylon washer btwn the cap and shock body so the cap stays tight but doesn't over preload the seal.

I am actually running jato shocks which have more threads than the revo shocks.With not much preload set, my ride height is dogbones pretty much level, maybe just above. I am also running the bottom caps that come with the shock dust boots, which are a slightly different design to allow use of the dust boot; I have not noticed any drag.

I am running THESE as rear shocks. I think I using the springs that come with them, but the springs I am using I just found in my box of shock parts. It makes the ride height arms just above level.

Bye

[GO-RIDE.com]

Originally Posted by cemetery gates

I am actually running jato shocks which have more threads than the revo shocks.With not much preload set, my ride height is dogbones pretty much level, maybe just above. I am also running the bottom caps that come with the shock dust boots, which are a slightly different design to allow use of the dust boot; I have not noticed any drag.

I am running THESE as rear shocks. I think I using the springs that come with them, but the springs I am using I just found in my box of shock parts. It makes the ride height arms just above level.

Bye

Ahh...that explains a couple of things.
1. I bet the shock caps I have are the same as the ones for the boots, but without the boots (I don't have) they over preload the seals and create drag. The only way to notice the drag is to back off the cap a bit an see if the shock moves more freely. I have now installed an o-ring under each cap to reduce the preload on the seal.
2. It's too bad the aluminum shock bodies don't come threaded as far down the body as the plastic Jato bodies. I might just flip my preload caps over to get more preload.

[miniGranis]

This is probably a "I should have guessed" kind of question, and I have tried to google it but I havent found anything usefull.
Here we go: When you guys refer to piston #13 or #14 where do I find the pistons ?
How many different ones are there, I have only found references to #1-3 at buytraxxas.com

[GO-RIDE.com]

Originally Posted by miniGranis

This is probably a "I should have guessed" kind of question, and I have tried to google it but I havent found anything usefull.
Here we go: When you guys refer to piston #13 or #14 where do I find the pistons ?
How many different ones are there, I have only found references to #1-3 at buytraxxas.com

5 sets of pistons came with my Revo shock kit. There were 3 for the Revo (black) labeled 1, 2, 3. There were 2 for the Jato (grey) labeled 1.3, 1.4, and refer to the size of the holes in mm. I started with the 1.3mm holes and they felt over damped. I'm now using the 1.4mm holes with 30wt and they are pretty good.

would these work in the front?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=110311279634

[GO-RIDE.com]

Those are the right shock bodies, but the springs and pistons will be too stiff for a crt.5. You need the Jato (1.4mm hole) pistons and Jato (pink 1.4) springs to work with the CRT.5.

Originally Posted by GO-RIDE.com

Those are the right shock bodies, but the springs and pistons will be too stiff for a crt.5. You need the Jato (1.4mm hole) pistons and Jato (pink 1.4) springs to work with the CRT.5.

if I get the jato plastic ones at tower i wont need the 1.4 jatp pistions?...just the 1.4 pink springs

[Jason]

here my shock setup it wont work better then the stock shock for me .. when I run over bump the rear end goes up in the air and sometime flip and it REALLY dont do jump fine...

front shock is electric revo aluminium body and titanium shaft white soft spring with piston black 2 holes and AE 35WTS SHOCK OIL.

rear shock is front jammin X1-CRT shocks with white soft spring + white 2 holes piston and AE 50WT SHOCK OIL.

[Jason]

Originally Posted by Jason

here my shock setup it wont work better then the stock shock for me .. when I run over bump the rear end goes up in the air and sometime flip and it REALLY dont do jump fine...

front shock is electric revo aluminium body and titanium shaft white soft spring with piston black 2 holes and AE 35WTS SHOCK OIL.

rear shock is front jammin X1-CRT shocks with white soft spring + white 2 holes piston and AE 50WT SHOCK OIL.

there's your prob right there, Jason...

for the revo front shocks, use the Jato pink springs and the #2 piston. You can vary your shock weight from 25-27.

In the rear, use the soft springs for the buggy front and use 25-27 weight oil.

Another option that I found that works pretty darn good is using 1/10 Stadium Truck shocks (preferably aluminum) in the rear with the .5 blue springs and about 35wt oil.

feel free to PM for further info. :thumbsup:

[miniGranis]

Thanks for the clarification.

[GO-RIDE.com]

I have some updates to the upper mounting system for the Revo shocks. I found that with the Ofna part 36610 the shock cap was hitting this part and not allowing the shock to swing backwards in the event of a broken A-arm. Because of this I bent a shock shaft. Granted the whole front left side of the car was destroyed (a-arm, knuckle, c-hub, ball cap, shock shaft) so bending a shock shaft on that hard of an impact may not be avoidable.

So, I've removed part 36610 and replaced it with the original crt.5 upper shock mount. However, I did not remove the Revo pivot ball. So I'm just using the crt.5 shock mount as a spacer. This moves the shock even farther from the shock tower and allows the shock to pivot rearward in the event of a broken a-arm.

Now to mount the upper shock all you need to add is (2) 35mm screws and (2) washers and lock nuts for behind the body mount. The other parts are stock.

[rschoi_75]

hey fellas,
just wanted to say that this has been a great read. Thanks for the info. I haven't tried this yet, but I like the concept. Keep it coming.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXHFZ9&P=Z

Much better cost then the full ofna set up! I wish I still had my .5 =( I never thought of using the body mount holes!

How ever, does anyone need some revo shocks for cheap? I have 4 of them, 2 of them have ti-ni shafts, and the other 2 are normal, I cant find the other package of ti ni shafts lol.... PM if any one is interested

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXKMH2&P=7

Even cheaper then revo shocks! With more threads too! Also a bit lighter because of the plastic body....

Bye