Well no more machining for a while, my bad machining skills blew the gear box in my mini mill. But I was able to finish the spacers the old fashion way, saw, dremel and files.
hi shark413,im the guy who got your old cen conversion.im having so much fun with it with the MMM.only problem is i keep stripping spur gears.i stripped 3 already and and im not even doing any jumping.i got a steel spur gear but im reluctant to try it coz i might melt my pinions or something else.can u give any advice?id appreciate it.thanks
cornolio, glad to hear from you. I also had issues with stripping the plastic Kyosho spur gears, so I swithced to steel spur and a hardened pinion. I have been running these on all my brushless conversions with no problems. The important thing is you must use a Mod 1 hardened pinion, which RC-Monster, Impaktrc, MegaUSA all sell. I am also using a wide Robinson Racing Losi spur gear that is wider than normal and spreads the contact area out more, which improves wear on the spur and pinion as well.
cornolio, no problem. Just to clarify, if you switch to a steel spur the hardened pinion is a must. The wide Robinson Racing steel spur is optional and a nice to have but not a requirement.
cornolio, I am currently running what Kyosho recommends, 7000 wt in the center diff, 5000 in front and 2000 in the rear. I find these are good starting points for my set-up.
Ok, I finally was able to get (bribe) my nephews to come out to the track and shoot some video of my brushless ST-RR in action. Still need to fine tune the shocks and brakes.
Steve, thanks for the kind words. I am a better wrench than a driver. The fan runs off of the rx. Regarding the brakes, I just feel more comfortable with the mechanical brakes, you can adjust brake bias, there is less wear and tear on the gears/motor/esc. When you use motor brake only you bascially lock the spur gear, but the diff will then decide how much brake to give to the front/rear depending on traction. Too iffy for me. Don't get me wrong, motor brakes work fine, it makes the buggy lighter and there are less things that can go wrong.
shark, nice job on the conversion.....lot of work. FYI....running the neu with the wires oriented on the low side will eventually result in pierced heat shrink on the wires where they smack the chassis and can short through the chassis intermittently.......
cadima, thanks for the heads up, I'll keep an eye on the wires rubbing on the chassis. I was kind of worried about the wires where they exit the motor can, do they rub agains't the can and short out? I was thinking of putting a dab of silicone sealer around the holes to both seal the can and prevent the wires from rubbing.