Castle - Make A Special Edition Monster - Page 2 - RC-Monster Forums

Sammus · 11:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Edumakated

The current design isn't good for anything except running your truck at 60mph up and down the street which I am sure is what most bashers are going to be doing, but it won't last more than a couple of trips to the track.

Sorry but I must disagree. I can't imagine how you drive your cars, but I've had the Mamba Max since its release, and had lots of huge high speed cartwheels and awkward landings on some big jumps and have never, ever, damaged the mamba case in any way. Filled it with sand, mud and dirt, yes, but cracked or damaged it? No.

The only way I've managed to hurt/kill my mamba is when I tried to perform Arturs mod's myself with innappropriate tools, and ended up destroying a bunch of the SMCs...

FWIW I don't think high speed runs count as bashing... bashing tends to be the hardest on your truck out of any form of driving, hence the name: bashing. For the most part, bashing is the youtube vids you see of kids driving there car off cliffs and hitting quater pipes and crappy home made shapeless launch ramps etc, only to try and land on flat ground in the middle of the road pfft *shudders* makes me cringe everytime I see them.

Cain · 06.04.2008, 11:55 AM

I too wouldn't have minded a 4S rated ESC with the BEC built in as that right now is the limits for Racing in MT class for RC Pro Series, and wouldn't be suprised that it becomes the limit if 1/8 scale racing takes off into an actual class.

My Mamba Monster so far has worked excellent for the day of racing I put it through. Just need to redo my servos and I will be set.

Anyway, I think the main thing I would want them to do for a special edition Monster is make one that does not require a fan at all. Has a programmable BEC, and if using the castle link have a plug that doesn't require me to always unplug from the receiver ala Mamba Max setup, just put a dirt cap on it. Do that and I am golden.

BrianG · 05:07 PM

I agree with some of the sentiment here. An "elite" MMM would be nice, but the market would be so small that price would have to be really high to compensate.

But since we are talking "wishlist" here, I would like:

10s to 12s version.
Opto (no BEC). I'll add my own.
200A capable. 200A is plenty for all but the most abusive systems. Maybe make the power PCBs potentially stackable for those few insane people who need 12S @ 400A. After all, who doesn't need almost 24HP in a vehicle.
Retain the single layer power PCB. It's nice to have the heatsink on ALL FETs, not just a top layer. If stacking PCBs, use the HV series heatsinking method.
Use a couple more caps for the setups that need it because of wire length. If the wires end up being short, that's ok, more caps won't hurt.
NO FAN needed. But, for those who insist on using them, add some fan mounting threads to the heatsink, or an optional add-on fan mounting bracket.
Taller heatsink. Might as well make use of the airflow inside our vehicles. I do like the current fin design itself, so keep that.
Use a case that totally encloses the circuitry, but exposes the heatsink. Use o-rings or something around the wires/bullet connectors to help keep dirt out of the case.

Or maybe even make the case out of aluminum kinda like the Quark 125B, and attach the heatsink to that. Make the bottom a plastic access panel to remove the guts if necessary. Changing heatsinks if desired would be a snap. Add mounting tabs for those who want to screw it down.

And if the case is perfectly square, allow the bottom panel (where the mounting tabs are) to be rotated 90* to put the tabs where we need them.
Retain the Castle Link programming method, but add the option of a programming card for those without laptops in the field. This would be a seperate order accessory. Or make the card included and the Castle Link cable the accessory - whatever.

An added programming port (not using the throttle cable) would be nice, but only if it was a port in the case that had a cover (not another wire sticking out).
Use bullet connectors for the wires. We can use matching bullets or solder our wires directly into the bullets as we see fit.
Add a link cable to allow two ESCs to be used in Master/Slave mode for dual motor setups.
Keep the exceptional customer support Castle is known for...

06.04.2008, 12:57 PM

While on the "wishlist" thing i want one that is also dual channel so that i can run both motors on my wheelchair. 20s capable would be nice also.

BrianG · 06.04.2008, 01:30 PM

If your chair uses brushed motors, you can do that on one channel. Just put them in parallel.

A dual channel ESC would just be two ESCs fed off one brain. Hey, I'll add that to my wishlist: the ability for a master/slave setup!

JerryF504 · 06.04.2008, 01:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BrianG

If your chair uses brushed motors, you can do that on one channel. Just put them in parallel.

A dual channel ESC would just be two ESCs fed off one brain. Hey, I'll add that to my wishlist: the ability for a master/slave setup!

I think if you ran them in parallel you would only be able to go strait. Might be good for drag racing though.

BrianG · 06.04.2008, 01:44 PM

Just hook both motors to a differential, and then apply brakes to the side you are turning into.

suicideneil · 06.04.2008, 03:29 PM

Thats how those truck pull Rcs do it isnt it? Those things are nuts (must visit clodtalk more often...)!

Finnster · 06.04.2008, 05:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BrianG

I agree with some of the sentiment here. An "elite" MMM would be nice, but the market would be so small that price would have to be really high to compensate.

But since we are talking "wishlist" here, I would like:

10s to 12s version.
Opto (no BEC). I'll add my own.
200A capable. 200A is plenty for all but the most abusive systems. Maybe make the power PCBs potentially stackable for those few insane people who need 12S @ 400A. After all, who doesn't need almost 24HP in a vehicle.
Retain the single layer power PCB. It's nice to have the heatsink on ALL FETs, not just a top layer. If stacking PCBs, use the HV series heatsinking method.
Use a couple more caps for the setups that need it because of wire length. If the wires end up being short, that's ok, more caps won't hurt.
NO FAN needed. But, for those who insist on using them, add some fan mounting threads to the heatsink, or an optional add-on fan mounting bracket.
Taller heatsink. Might as well make use of the airflow inside our vehicles. I do like the current fin design itself, so keep that.
Use a case that totally encloses the circuitry, but exposes the heatsink. Use o-rings or something around the wires/bullet connectors to help keep dirt out of the case.

Or maybe even make the case out of aluminum kinda like the Quark 125B, and attach the heatsink to that. Make the bottom a plastic access panel to remove the guts if necessary. Changing heatsinks if desired would be a snap. Add mounting tabs for those who want to screw it down.

And if the case is perfectly square, allow the bottom panel (where the mounting tabs are) to be rotated 90* to put the tabs where we need them.
Retain the Castle Link programming method, but add the option of a programming card for those without laptops in the field. This would be a seperate order accessory. Or make the card included and the Castle Link cable the accessory - whatever.

An added programming port (not using the throttle cable) would be nice, but only if it was a port in the case that had a cover (not another wire sticking out).
Use bullet connectors for the wires. We can use matching bullets or solder our wires directly into the bullets as we see fit.
Add a link cable to allow two ESCs to be used in Master/Slave mode for dual motor setups.

That is almost the decription of my MGM 9032. My wishlist would be that ESC, but with better programming, and away with the lame-o 3.5mm bullets.

Its a sweet controller, less than $500, just the CPU programming and CS from Czechoslovakia is lacking.
The MGM 16024 is awesome as well. Either of these cloned as a CC controller would be nice.

BrianG · 06.04.2008, 05:06 PM

I guess I should add exceptional customer support. Too bad repairs for MGM takes so long.

06.04.2008, 07:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BrianG

I agree with some of the sentiment here. An "elite" MMM would be nice, but the market would be so small that price would have to be really high to compensate.

But since we are talking "wishlist" here, I would like:

10s to 12s version.
Opto (no BEC). I'll add my own.
200A capable. 200A is plenty for all but the most abusive systems. Maybe make the power PCBs potentially stackable for those few insane people who need 12S @ 400A. After all, who doesn't need almost 24HP in a vehicle.
Retain the single layer power PCB. It's nice to have the heatsink on ALL FETs, not just a top layer. If stacking PCBs, use the HV series heatsinking method.
Use a couple more caps for the setups that need it because of wire length. If the wires end up being short, that's ok, more caps won't hurt.
NO FAN needed. But, for those who insist on using them, add some fan mounting threads to the heatsink, or an optional add-on fan mounting bracket.
Taller heatsink. Might as well make use of the airflow inside our vehicles. I do like the current fin design itself, so keep that.
Use a case that totally encloses the circuitry, but exposes the heatsink. Use o-rings or something around the wires/bullet connectors to help keep dirt out of the case.

Or maybe even make the case out of aluminum kinda like the Quark 125B, and attach the heatsink to that. Make the bottom a plastic access panel to remove the guts if necessary. Changing heatsinks if desired would be a snap. Add mounting tabs for those who want to screw it down.

And if the case is perfectly square, allow the bottom panel (where the mounting tabs are) to be rotated 90* to put the tabs where we need them.
Retain the Castle Link programming method, but add the option of a programming card for those without laptops in the field. This would be a seperate order accessory. Or make the card included and the Castle Link cable the accessory - whatever.

An added programming port (not using the throttle cable) would be nice, but only if it was a port in the case that had a cover (not another wire sticking out).
Use bullet connectors for the wires. We can use matching bullets or solder our wires directly into the bullets as we see fit.
Add a link cable to allow two ESCs to be used in Master/Slave mode for dual motor setups.
Keep the exceptional customer support Castle is known for...

Said in the voice of Patrick Stewart

"Make it so number 1"

GriffinRU · 06.04.2008, 10:10 PM

I am looking for an opportunity to build ESC for monster-club members.

I can cover electronics, cooling and software, but I need somebody to help me out with micro programming. I got couple kits from atmel and siliconlabs, but have no time to play with them (need to feed the family, only week-ends for you guys) if anyone have a great experience with micro's let me know and we will blow away any ESC manufacture on the market (including MGM) with support and features with the help from RC-Monster members.

I am pretty sure Luciano (Lutach) can help us out with parts and RC-Monster forum members with specs and features. Why waiting for CC if they are deaf and ignorant and MGM is way too far, while Quark is lost in space and Tekin is just on horizon.

BrianG · 06.04.2008, 10:41 PM

Man, someone would really have to know their stuff to create firmware for a sensorless BL controller! Even companies in the BL business for years can't seem to get it all done perfect (smooth/no cogging, good brakes/reverse, etc). And whoever you get to do this would be running the risk of blowing prototype ESCs until the bugs are worked out. I think many here would plunk down ~$500 for a "be all end all" controller, so I hope your search for a firmware developer is fruitful!

Seems like it would be easier to simply rob the brains from a MMM and make your own bullet-proof power PCB. With the exception of a couple of my "wish list" items, it looks like they all could be met with better FET hardware.

Pdelcast · 06.07.2008, 01:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GriffinRU

Why waiting for CC if they are deaf and ignorant

WTF am I doing here then?

Here's the deal -- take $7000.00 and bootstrap your own company in eight years to $11 million in sales and 50 employees in a niche market. THEN you can call me ignorant.

Pdelcast · 06.07.2008, 01:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GriffinRU

I am looking for an opportunity to build ESC for monster-club members.

I can cover electronics, cooling and software, but I need somebody to help me out with micro programming. I got couple kits from atmel and siliconlabs, but have no time to play with them (need to feed the family, only week-ends for you guys) if anyone have a great experience with micro's let me know and we will blow away any ESC manufacture on the market (including MGM) with support and features with the help from RC-Monster members.

I am pretty sure Luciano (Lutach) can help us out with parts and RC-Monster forum members with specs and features. Why waiting for CC if they are deaf and ignorant and MGM is way too far, while Quark is lost in space and Tekin is just on horizon.

Yeah, good luck on that. First of all, the hardware isn't simple -- believe me, it's not just sticking some FETs and drivers on a board and wiring them together. Do you know what dV/dT induced turn-on is? Where it can happen? Do you know what current-induced shoot through is? Anyone can create a 10 or 20 amp MOSFET based controller -- but when you get over 100A and the induction voltages are HUGE -- that's when it becomes difficult. Believe me, I've been doing power design for over 20 years and everyone thinks it's easy UNTIL THEY TRY IT.
The first time you see a MOSFET turn on and destroy a controller, while the gate being held off by a driver, and no voltage on the gate, -- then you might know what I'm talking about.

And software -- there's six man-years of development time (and two patents) in the Mamba software. It's not really something that can be slapped together in a couple of weekends.

Oh, and by the way -- I started working on a larger MMM last weekend. Making it a pet "off the clock" project. My biggest issue right now is justifying the cost of tooling... but we'll see. :)

Patrick