Well, I just killed my VXL esc, time to send it back to Traxxas.
In the mean time, I have a choice of putting in a novak GTB esc (in my parts box), and either a novak 4.5R or a novak 13.5 motor. Which would be the best choice? It will be powered by a 2s lipo. Is the 13.5 enough motor? If I go with the 4.5R, is the Rustler too heavy for the motor? I could also go with a Novak HV 4.5, but on 2S I think it will be a dog.
Thanks in advance.
Note: Once I get the 2 mounting holes drilled in my G3 x-brace, so I can mount the V1 slipperential on the G3 chassis, the Rustler will go back to being a backup truck.
If you gear down a bit, the 4.5 motor should be ok. I would go with the largest spur to start, and then gear up while watching temps. I ran a 13.5 motor in my pede on 3s lipo and it sucked. Got too hot even with modest gearing.
I loved my hv in my rustler or stampede.Even on 6cell nihm it was faster then my VXL.But did the wire connector come out of your esc?Thats a pretty easy fix if you can solder.
It won't shut off/on. When I connect the battery it is always on, red light, then will flash red 2x, pause red 3x, pause, red 1x, etc.
Trying to reprogram the esc, same result? It has been acting up, prior to malfunctioning. Been running stock gearing, with a MaxAmps 2s2P 8000, in the park next to my house.
I use my rc's to keep my dog exercised (red nose mix), when the truck is running, he will ignore anything else. If I flip the truck, he will wait by the truck until I turn it over, then the chase starts again. Good thing he knows he's not allowed to bite the truck.
So, if I put in the 4.5, I should change the 25 tooth pinion, with the 28 tooth, correct (stock spurr)?
Sounds like your switch is sticking.When you push the button can you feel if it's working?When that happened to mine I split the case and took out the oring that seals the button ,I didn't need it to be waterproof.With the hv I would say any where around there will be fine.It will mostly be up to your batterys.The motor should not get hot.
Does it void any repair options if I open the case?
The absolute most it will cost you is 45 bucks.But i sent 1 in that I had resoldered a connector on the board just to have something else fail later and they replaced it for free.If it's over 30 days old it's supposed to cost 20 bucks.So for me it was worth the risk.
Looks like a sticking switch. I opened the ESC, the switch on the board is working properly, however, the switch/connector built into the top cover of the ESC appears to be sticking. What's the best way to clean this? Just use the compressor and try blowing it out, or use something else?
that happened to all my vxl escs, i just pop the rubber ring out lube it up with lithium grease, and spun a exacto around the hole a few times and polished the button. I removed the sticker from the esc on a couple because the sticker goo kept creeping in the hole as it got older.