beginners question

[ronnyboy]

hi all, just logged in to the forums here, hope you all could help me out.

bought a revo last month and its converted to brushless with a custom chassis. last week i finnaly got my max amp 6000 4s2p lipo in. second time ive test drove the truck it just cutts out the power. narrowed it down tho the quark monster pro 125 thats on there.

im new to all of thiss, but wat could this be, never saw any smoke or smells from it. just cutts off after 10 minutes of driving on a circuit.

further specs:

dx3 spektrum unit
feigao 8xl
i believe some sort of limiter between reciever and the quark to keep the voltage in spec.

hope some one can help?

greets from the netherlands!

Ronny

[BrianG]

Welcome to the forums!

That's fairly common on the Quarks - they tend to overheat because of the way they are put together. The ESC guts are held on to the case by a sticky thermal pad. Over time (sometimes very short), the sticky part lets go, so there is no longer any cooling from the ESC to the case. If this is the case, you have two options: 1) send it back to Sky&Technology for repair, or 2) perform the "internal mod".

The internal mod involves taking the ESC apart, removing the crappy thermal pad, and using thermal epoxy in place. You also have to make a new heatspreader slab as the existing one is too thin once you remove the pad. This voids the warranty though, but does wonders.

No matter what you do, it's best to add some sort of heatsink to the case to help shed the heat. The case is rather thin and doesn't function well as a heatsink unaided. Mike has a heatsink in his store, or you can come up with your own method.

[ronnyboy]

aha, i havent tried it yet, but after a night the esc would work again right? i have 2 heatsinks on top of the quark, i can also put a fan on top of that, but thx for the quik advise!

[BrianG]

Yeah, after it cools, it should work fine.

BTW: putting a heatsink on top (where the label is) won't do anything. For one thing, it's plastic; and another, the FETs aren't there. The heatsink needs to be on the bottom part of the case (smooth metal part), since that is where the FETs are.

Also, as long as the thermal pad is still present and working right, you shouldn't need a huge heatsink. The one I have in the picture below is perfectly fine along with that internal mod I was talking about:



Note: It might look like the black fins are attached to the side of the case, but they're not. The fins are attached to an aluminum mounting plate, and that plate is thermal-epoxied to the ESC case.

[Arct1k]

Did mike make that motor mount? I wouldn't mind one for my x1cr and hyper st potentially

[BrianG]

Yeah, Mike made it. I'm sure he still has the plans for it somewhere...

[Arct1k]

Email sent to him - thx

LMK of you get into the battery tray construction business...