MMM Mods

[RBMike]

Originally Posted by Arct1k

2nd the issue with the heatsink - I think CC should go back to soldered wires. The cups are way to close - I would say touching the heatsink.

The only thing that I believe is stopping a short is the laquerer that is put on - however when cleaning the esc with buggy blast and a compressor most of the laquerer came off so VERY worried about picking up a short.

Personally leads are fine by me....

I like the cups. I just put some e-tap on them.

[Arct1k]

Not sure I could get tape or shrink down the back...

[tc3_racer_001]

weird, mine are spaced out far enough to get at least tape perhaps a bit of heat shrink. I hadn't thought of this at all actually. thanks for bringing it up!!!

edit: u know, both the fins near my battery terminals are bent! this means they are touching/have touched.... also at the bottom i think the esc IS attached to them... im sure they would have thought about this a little???? perhaps its impossible to short for some random reason..?

[RBMike]

Originally Posted by tc3_racer_001

weird, mine are spaced out far enough to get at least tape perhaps a bit of heat shrink. I hadn't thought of this at all actually. thanks for bringing it up!!!

edit: u know, both the fins near my battery terminals are bent! this means they are touching/have touched.... also at the bottom i think the esc IS attached to them... im sure they would have thought about this a little???? perhaps its impossible to short for some random reason..?

Well the heatsink is 1 peice of metal & if both your battery socket hit it at the same time, that's a dead short across your battery.

[sikeston34m]

I've been following this thread. Very interesting points you guys are discovering. Jhautz also showed in detail about the possible fan plug issue.

I opened mine back up to check out the heat sink you guys have been discussing. I felt it was worth pictures. Here they are:

In this first picture, please notice that my motor power cups have ample spacing.


In this picture, my power lead cups are touching the heat sink. Bent heat sink pins as previously mentioned.


This last picture shows the lower case mod that I did to create clearance for the fan plug. IMO, it's not necessary to go completely through the plate.


Please Note: In the upper right hand corner of this last picture, I found a resistor riding right on the support rail. I also removed material to clearance for that.

What can I do about the power lead cups touching the heat sink? I don't have a good feeling about this. Those pins will flex/rub under shock and vibration I'm sure. IMO, this should have additional clearance to prevent problems.

[BrianG]

Originally Posted by sikeston34m

What can I do about the power lead cups touching the heat sink? I don't have a good feeling about this. Those pins will flex/rub under shock and vibration I'm sure. IMO, this should have additional clearance to prevent problems.

Replace the connector with wire leads...

[BrianG]

Well yeah, but I didn't realize the warranty was a factor. And I think cutting the fins would void it as well.

[tc3_racer_001]

not as bad

but until castle figures out everything eslse and we see the new case design these are here to stay imo.

[DRIFT_BUGGY]

Would heat shrink work?

[joeling]

After this potential problem was pointed out in this forum, that's what i did. However, some of the posts were so close to the heatsink that I had difficulty to insert the shrink. In addition, the shrink also interfered with the case. Had a difficult time putting back the case.

I'll try to put up a pic later for more clarity.

Originally Posted by DRIFT_BUGGY

Would heat shrink work?

Regards,
Joe Ling

[Maciolus]

Do you think Novak Glitch Buster Capacitor will reduce possibility of failure?

It is supposed to "store power from the Battery Eliminator Circuitry (BEC) and act as a filter to eliminate noises generated by servos" and "reduce load on BEC".

Do you know parameters of that capacitor?

[BrianG]

Originally Posted by Maciolus

Do you think Novak Glitch Buster Capacitor will reduce possibility of failure?

It is supposed to "store power from the Battery Eliminator Circuitry (BEC) and act as a filter to eliminate noises generated by servos" and "reduce load on BEC".

Do you know parameters of that capacitor?

Depends on what is causing the failure. If it's simply amperage load, then no, it won't help. If it has something to do with filtering, then maybe. If the issue is with a bad BEC component, then no.

A cap inherently stores a charge and filters out AC. So, it provides a "reservior" of sorts that will help with current draw when servos need more peak currents. However, if the load requires a constant high current, a cap won't help much at all. It also helps get rid of noise that may be present on the BEC output. However, if the noise is getting in elsewhere (antenna, throttle/steering signal line, etc), it will not help.

Don't know the parameters of that cap, but $13 plus whatever the shipping costs are is a bit overpriced IMO. Just go to RadioShack and pick up a 1000uF (or higher) 10v (or higher) capacitor and solder a servo lead to it.

[jhautz]

Here is another option. Marketed for a different reason, but essentially the same thing. A capacitor on a rx plug. less than $5 too.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/6570

[hoovhartid]

well, after my case mods and adding shrink around the bullets, as well as using a UBEC...it didnt matter.
My 2nd MMM v2 took a dump. :(

I'm gonna roll the dice on a MM with a BEC and a fan.

[DRIFT_BUGGY]

Originally Posted by hoovhartid

well, after my case mods and adding shrink around the bullets, as well as using a UBEC...it didnt matter.
My 2nd MMM v2 took a dump. :(

I'm gonna roll the dice on a MM with a BEC and a fan.

Unlucky, haven't heard of to many going up in smoke using a ext. bec