MMM Mods

[e-mike]

clean job,,!!!!!im always surprized when i see a mmmv2 (working unit)

and aluminium is pretty hard to tap a small screw size

[brushlessboy16]

hey mike, i just got a second MMM, running great so far

though i would hear the fan rubbing the case at times

[Semi Pro]

Originally Posted by killjoyken

Funny, my fan plug broke off just trying to pull the fan off. Whatever, I was planning on running it off the the rx anyway.

Instead of modding the case, I made a case mount that solved a couple of problems I had with my V1s. It now has a quick change fan on top using a 25mm Muchmore Racing fan that I've had good luck with on my MMs. Second, it keeps the case from popping apart. And third (just in case), it's a fire shield for my lipos! (just kidding Patrick!)



I was rushing when I made it and broke my 3mm tap on the last hole, so instead of a nice countersunk screw, it's a dowel pin.

thats a great idea

[e-mike]

brushlessboy16....lucky you are ...me my second v2 failed after 30min....friday....(i ship today to cc)i have one unit that my friend david lamontagne sold to me...(he run it about 2 hour so far)


lets see what happen this wek with this unit....

[Sneaky Pete]

Originally Posted by RBMike

The MMM(v2) that I have with the most hours on it now (of all MMM's I've had) is the one that the fan connector broke off of on the first day I ran it. I took this one home after it broke, removed the fan & broken off connector and replaced the fan with one that plugs into the RX. This one is holding up great. I'm starting to think the the fan connector getting banged on the case & into the brain board may be what is causing the BEC to fail.

Hey Mike, we were discussing this on Sunday at Bayside, but later last night I was thinking about this...allegedly, there are alot of burnt V2's from right when guys are calibrating or RIGHT when they start running them (slow). That is, they wouldn't have caused any jarring to make the PCB flex causing a broken solder. So, while I do think the plug is a problem, and has perhaps caused problems, there must be another possible cause in addition.

Originally Posted by Sneaky Pete

Hey Mike, we were discussing this on Sunday at Bayside, but later last night I was thinking about this...allegedly, there are alot of burnt V2's from right when guys are calibrating or RIGHT when they start running them (slow). That is, they wouldn't have caused any jarring to make the PCB flex causing a broken solder. So, while I do think the plug is a problem, and has perhaps caused problems, there must be another possible cause in addition.

I modded my case before I powered up my V2, I removed some material from the bottom of the case to make room for the fan connector and I also did a small amount of relief work for the induction coil. Regardless the BEC failed just after calibration with my radio. I beleive the case is a problem and is possibly causing a few malfunctions but believe a more likely explanation would be

A: Faulty parts
B: Assembly fault (my money is on this)

I would think that after all the V1 failures that the CC techs would of gone over the design of the BEC with a fine toothed comb. This leads me to believe that the same problem from the V1's is also effecting the V2's. Is it possible an assembly technique is to blame here?

Has anyone noticed how close the control board is to the back of the FET board? I wonder if when they solder these boards together there is some sort of issue???

Just some observations... I love CC regardless

What are everyone else's theories????

[jayjay283]

Originally Posted by Countryhick

:yes

I would think that after all the V1 failures that the CC techs would of gone over the design of the BEC with a fine toothed comb. This leads me to believe that the same problem from the V1's is also effecting the V2's. Is it possible an assembly technique is to blame here?

Has anyone noticed how close the control board is to the back of the FET board? I wonder if when they solder these boards together there is some sort of issue???

Just some observations... I love CC regardless

What are everyone else's theories????

I received mine (v2) as maybe the 1st or 2nd sent to us customers (not including beta testers) it was sent back with my original connectors from 2.5 months earlier, all nice in small (dime bags) lol. This thing has been flawless. Its soldered very nicely, who ever delt with my particular case spent a fair amount of time making everything right. I said in another thread my theory is sabotage. Some loser soldering joints together too close works too

[RBMike]

Originally Posted by Sneaky Pete

Hey Mike, we were discussing this on Sunday at Bayside, but later last night I was thinking about this...allegedly, there are alot of burnt V2's from right when guys are calibrating or RIGHT when they start running them (slow). That is, they wouldn't have caused any jarring to make the PCB flex causing a broken solder. So, while I do think the plug is a problem, and has perhaps caused problems, there must be another possible cause in addition.

Ya Pete, I agree. There is at least 1 more problem that is NOT related to the fan clearance/fan wires/fan connector mechanical problem. Another issue I could see causing problems is the heat sink being to close to the 6.5mm sockets. On one of the Monsters I have the heat sink is so close to the battery sockets that I could barely get a peice of electrical tape between them.

[Arct1k]

2nd the issue with the heatsink - I think CC should go back to soldered wires. The cups are way to close - I would say touching the heatsink.

The only thing that I believe is stopping a short is the laquerer that is put on - however when cleaning the esc with buggy blast and a compressor most of the laquerer came off so VERY worried about picking up a short.

Personally leads are fine by me....

[RBMike]

Originally Posted by Arct1k

2nd the issue with the heatsink - I think CC should go back to soldered wires. The cups are way to close - I would say touching the heatsink.

The only thing that I believe is stopping a short is the laquerer that is put on - however when cleaning the esc with buggy blast and a compressor most of the laquerer came off so VERY worried about picking up a short.

Personally leads are fine by me....

I like the cups. I just put some e-tap on them.

[Arct1k]

Not sure I could get tape or shrink down the back...

[tc3_racer_001]

weird, mine are spaced out far enough to get at least tape perhaps a bit of heat shrink. I hadn't thought of this at all actually. thanks for bringing it up!!!

edit: u know, both the fins near my battery terminals are bent! this means they are touching/have touched.... also at the bottom i think the esc IS attached to them... im sure they would have thought about this a little???? perhaps its impossible to short for some random reason..?

[RBMike]

Originally Posted by tc3_racer_001

weird, mine are spaced out far enough to get at least tape perhaps a bit of heat shrink. I hadn't thought of this at all actually. thanks for bringing it up!!!

edit: u know, both the fins near my battery terminals are bent! this means they are touching/have touched.... also at the bottom i think the esc IS attached to them... im sure they would have thought about this a little???? perhaps its impossible to short for some random reason..?

Well the heatsink is 1 peice of metal & if both your battery socket hit it at the same time, that's a dead short across your battery.

[sikeston34m]

I've been following this thread. Very interesting points you guys are discovering. Jhautz also showed in detail about the possible fan plug issue.

I opened mine back up to check out the heat sink you guys have been discussing. I felt it was worth pictures. Here they are:

In this first picture, please notice that my motor power cups have ample spacing.


In this picture, my power lead cups are touching the heat sink. Bent heat sink pins as previously mentioned.


This last picture shows the lower case mod that I did to create clearance for the fan plug. IMO, it's not necessary to go completely through the plate.


Please Note: In the upper right hand corner of this last picture, I found a resistor riding right on the support rail. I also removed material to clearance for that.

What can I do about the power lead cups touching the heat sink? I don't have a good feeling about this. Those pins will flex/rub under shock and vibration I'm sure. IMO, this should have additional clearance to prevent problems.

[BrianG]

Originally Posted by sikeston34m

What can I do about the power lead cups touching the heat sink? I don't have a good feeling about this. Those pins will flex/rub under shock and vibration I'm sure. IMO, this should have additional clearance to prevent problems.

Replace the connector with wire leads...