You can dnload UE's instructions of building either a 6 or 8 spyder ultralight diff. They have plenty of pics and are explained well enough to understand what you're trying to accomplish.
The only thing no one ever mentions is george16's trick with marker/dye to dbl check mesh. You kinda need to know what you're looking for to use that, but it provides a visual on locating pinion on the ring and quality of the mesh.
If you've ever done a 1:1 diff you'll know what I mean.
You can dnload UE's instructions of building either a 6 or 8 spyder ultralight diff. They have plenty of pics and are explained well enough to understand what you're trying to accomplish.
The only thing no one ever mentions is george16's trick with marker/dye to dbl check mesh. You kinda need to know what you're looking for to use that, but it provides a visual on locating pinion on the ring and quality of the mesh.
If you've ever done a 1:1 diff you'll know what I mean.
I don't think anyone makes a small enough dial indicator to set the backlash
It is important to see the mesh pattern, but generally a full size vehicle is set that way to minimize noise. It does help longevity... But a properly shimmed diff will do just fine. I generally set the pinion depth so that the teeth match up with the ring as evenly as possible, and the diff cup does not rub on the end of the pinion.