Mamba max esc on crt.5 issues....

Well I finally got everything bolted in and running on the CRT.5
running MM5700 on maxamps 6000 2s
when bench testing I pulled WOT a couple times for like 2-3 seconds and was impressed that the tires did not balloon too much at all and all looked good.

Then I felt the esc afterwards and the esc was already warm to the touch and quite a bit warmer then the motor which was almost cold still. I mean I hardly even used it to get warm. I have heard that if the esc is warmer then the motor then it may be under geared but I dunno. I am running the stock spur and 14t pinion. The gears seem look perfectly meshed to me.

I wanted to do a firmware update but I seem to have forgotten my castle cable link. I am out of town at the moment and also forgot my temp gun somehow....shot. Now I am a little worried to get it out running till I get some more tunning in. So at the moment I am just buttoning everything up and am open to suggestions on whats causing the esc to heat up.

I will start a build thread as soon as I get some pics tonite.
I am anxious to get this on the dirt or golf course so help me out guys.

[E-Revonut]

IMHO your way over geared! That's not a very good motor for the truck. It's a small rotor and high kv value will give you heat issues. How long did u have the ESC connected to the battery? The bec circuitry will give off some heat.

umm it was hardly connected more then 5 min while testing forward/reverse and steering. It may not be the best motor but its what I have for it and christmas just about broke me so it will have to do.

Maybe a 12t pinion??? I could afford that....plus I have a 3s lipo that I was hoping to use as well. I will get a better suited motor for soon if the esc is giving me problems.

Good news is I found my temp gun...horay. Least now I can keep tabs on the temp now. Tonite after dark I will head to the golf course to test this bad boy. Looking forward to it.

[magman]

I agree that the motor is not a good choice for your truck....in my 2 crt.5's I run a Medusa 50 series 3300kv and in the other I run a 1509 3300kv Neu. Both motors will be much better suited for the application. The Medusa is not that much $ for a quality motor and Mike sells them here!...

[BrianG]

I agree; the 5700 (or even the 4600) are not good choices for this truck. ESC and/or motor heat will be excessive, especially in warmer weather. You could use fans but that's just masking the problem. Even with a 12T pinion, the heat will be a bit high, but then your top speed will be crappy (speaking from experience).

IMO, this truck really needs a motor in the 3500kv range running on 3s to reduce the current. I am currently in the process of rebuilding my CRT.5 and decided to get a Medusa 36-50-3300 with a MM and UBEC on 3s lipo. Geared 14T, that should be good for right around 35mph. Just some informal testing in my basement, the temps are already MUCH MUCH better; at least 40*F cooler, and that was on 4s (which should be hotter).

[Metallover]

I think the reason you got undergeared symptoms is because there was really no load on the electronic on your bench.

I agree, get a better motor. The motor you have will work, just gear low.

Well its def not the gearing. I ran it around the house for less than 5 minutes just to test the steering. First thing I noticed was major cogging, much more than I have ever experienced with the MM. Also the delay between forward and reverse is way too long...it will coast then engage and a couple times reverse seemed to not even engage. Then again I was coasting into walls. It seems the brakes are not even engaging the way its coasting.

Then after the run I did a temp test. Wow really hot for some coasting up and down the hall...esc was 155* and the motor was 115. Then drivetrain feels pretty smooth too.

I really wish I had my castle link cable. I have not ran these electronics for a couple months and probably could use an update. I think I am going to manually rest it and see if that helps.

Open to suggestion for troubleshooting.

[ren]

I have been having a similar problem lately. The mamba max in my .5 overheats after only 2-3 min of runtime with my 5000mah 3s packs. I have a 12T pinion on it. Could it be my Neu 1509-1Y (3600kv)? It works a little better with a bec, but in my communication with castle tech support they said it should work fine without the bec. My other cars are geared for about 30mph as well and in refrence top speed of the .5 seems way higher... Could it be the motor?... fried coil?

My esc after rolling around and testing got up to 171* and coggs like crazy on start and between braking and reverse. I also have to hit the brakes then hit reverse a second time to engage. My settings are off some how but I dont understand why. This is the same system that had my T4 doing well over 60mph. I dont know how the settings are messed up but I am kicking myself for not having a cable to play with the settings.

Also when I try resetting the esc it is not acting correctly and am not having successful calibration as per manual. Im really frustrated.

I was thinking there was binding somewhere so I ran with no load without a pinion and the heat is still an issue almost immediately. I mean I got up tp 171* literally just coasting around the house. With the cogging and delay in the braking I just keep smacking the walls.

[E-Revonut]

low speed will heat up the esc more than full throttle. Full throttle is where it is most efficient

I do understand that but the cogging is ridicoulous. I know heat can be produced at low rpms but not 171* in less than a couple min. Something is def wrong.

My drivetrain is not sounding too hot between forward and braking/reversing either. At the moment I have not figured if the diffs are acting up or its just the metal on metal gears.

Maybe I am kinking something in my wiring, I did a pretty neat and tidy wire tuck job on this baby...

I was reading on castle threads and wondered if maybe my reciver was acting up so I put my micro spektrum in it and it seems to cogg even worse.

Plan of action as of yet...
1. I plan to cut up my pretty zipped-up wire tuck and check that.

2. If that fails I am going to break down the whole drive-train and look for weird stuff.

[E-Revonut]

Also check the solder joints on the bullets for the motor and that the bullets are even any good. If they aren't making good contact that can cause some cogging.

[BrianG]

High cogging and high temps within a short time would cause me to consider the rotor was partially demagged...

[E-Revonut]

Leave it to Brian to come up with the simplest most obvious answer! Yeah a demaged rotor will heat up an esc quicker than hell and it will cog like crazy! No matter what I'd get a better motor, preferabbly a Medusa, mine hasn't went past 130* even in 90*ambient temps!

[BrianG]

lol, the simplest answer is many times the right one.

Hopefully it's just a setup issue...