anyone got a pics of the inside of the Castle Neu?

[suicideneil]

Ah, fair enough.

[padrino]

Originally Posted by Ryu James

yeah, what George pointed out. i just want to see a pic of how the 10awg wire is soldered to the copper winding leads. do you have a pic of that brushless boy? or anyone? thanks.

I don't want to put him on the spot but if I recall correctly longbill76 used a wire brush wheel on his dremel to pull the coating off the wires of his Tekno Neu. I think it worked pretty well and no liquid solution was required. I am not sure how you would fare with the wire brush so close to the windings but it may be an option if you manage to get it apart.

[mohanjude]

In the past I have used a cigarette lighter. If you hold the flame over the varnish within a few seconds you can see the wire getting discoloured and you will find that the discoloured wired has lost it's coating and will solder or conduct current. With a bit of practice you can only heat up the segment required.

Mohan

[SpEEdyBL]

I was going to stay silent but i have actually cut the leads down on two of my motors just using sand paper. It was my only option in order to get the motors to fit properly. One was a feigao 380c 9t, which ran the same before and after the operation, the other was a kontronik twist motor that already had a slight defect where the coils were touching the rotor, and you had to pull on the wires to prevent it. Cutting the wires down only made the problem worse. Through my experience, I would not recommend cutting down this type of wire unless you absolutely have to. FYI it is really a pain to get solder to stick to the thick copper strands, and there is every possibility that you will hurt performance while nothing you do can improve performance. Thats what matters right?

[himalaya]

Soldered together and heat-shrink tubed. that's it. I've taken my CastleNeu apart and saw this.
Sorry I didn't remove the rear endbell to take a photo.

[Ryu James]

Originally Posted by slimthelineman

this has worked very well for me thus far. thought about doing the solder inside the can jobber, but why risk destroying the stator in my opinion. would look better w/ full coverage heat shrink when i get around to it

hey Slim,
did you do anything to remove the tinning on the neu motor leads so that you could have flexible copper wire to solder to? i am just wondering what you did to join the two wires? the job looks pretty clean.

[slimthelineman]

Ryu- nope just used a little flux on the wires from the motor and pre-tinned the 10awg. to the esc, toched the ends together applied some heat and BAM! we got a connection. due to the type of wires used in the windings (soft drawn copper) bending is a no no. they WILL break if you bend them back and forth alot. the way i did it allows me to service the motor or remove it or whatever without having to ever bend the wires.

thanks for the compliment, i like clean cars and it took some thought to get my layout the way i like it, but it works great and is ballanced pretty well as long as my batts. are around 500g.

[Ryu James]

Originally Posted by slimthelineman

Ryu- nope just used a little flux on the wires from the motor and pre-tinned the 10awg. to the esc, toched the ends together applied some heat and BAM! we got a connection. due to the type of wires used in the windings (soft drawn copper) bending is a no no. they WILL break if you bend them back and forth alot. the way i did it allows me to service the motor or remove it or whatever without having to ever bend the wires.

thanks for the compliment, i like clean cars and it took some thought to get my layout the way i like it, but it works great and is ballanced pretty well as long as my batts. are around 500g.

so you didnt twist the wire together or anything? just butted the two ends of tinned wire together and that has held fine?

[slimthelineman]

just butted the two tinned ends together and applied some solder and heat. this might not work as well without flux, i use it on every joint and never had one fail:)

[Ryu James]

Originally Posted by slimthelineman

just butted the two tinned ends together and applied some solder and heat. this might not work as well without flux, i use it on every joint and never had one fail:)

i use flux for every job i do also. makes things a lot easier and sucks the solder into areas where you couldnt get to normally.

[BrianG]

When I need to join two wire ends together, I usually use a butt-connector (restrain yourself linc):

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2103512

I remove the plastic covering, tin each end, tin the wires, and heat up the connector and wire and it will slide right in. Once cooled, heatshrink the join. If done right, the join looks pretty seamless because the connector wall thickness is just a little thicker than the wire insulation so only a slight bump is visible.

[lincpimp]

Originally Posted by BrianG

When I need to join two wire ends together, I usually use a butt-connector (restrain yourself linc):

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2103512

I remove the plastic covering, tin each end, tin the wires, and heat up the connector and wire and it will slide right in. Once cooled, heatshrink the join. If done right, the join looks pretty seamless because the connector wall thickness is just a little thicker than the wire insulation so only a slight bump is visible.

Good tip, I may try that on the next hacker c50 I install. I have taken to direct soldering the wires that are included with the MMM and just plugging them into the MMM, one less connection to worry about.

[slimthelineman]

Originally Posted by BrianG

When I need to join two wire ends together, I usually use a butt-connector (restrain yourself linc):

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2103512

I remove the plastic covering, tin each end, tin the wires, and heat up the connector and wire and it will slide right in. Once cooled, heatshrink the join. If done right, the join looks pretty seamless because the connector wall thickness is just a little thicker than the wire insulation so only a slight bump is visible.

WORD! i like the sound of that, stronger mechanicly and more surface area to conduct! why didnt i think of that

[bdebde]

Originally Posted by BrianG

When I need to join two wire ends together, I usually use a butt-connector (restrain yourself linc):

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2103512

I remove the plastic covering, tin each end, tin the wires, and heat up the connector and wire and it will slide right in. Once cooled, heatshrink the join. If done right, the join looks pretty seamless because the connector wall thickness is just a little thicker than the wire insulation so only a slight bump is visible.

I have also used female 3.5mm and 4mm connectors. Just slip one wire in where it goes and use the socket for the other wire, on the 4mm, you can cut them down so they are shorter. Works the same ass the the butt connector, only gold plated.

[Ryu James]

Originally Posted by BrianG

You'd have to trim back the coil wire really far into the can, remove the varnish from the wires and make the connection. Sounds easy enough, but there are a couple problems with this for the average person:

1) stripping the varnish is done by a liquid solution. There is a possibility that the solution could wick up too far into the actual coils and short them out. Not good.

2) The motor can length for this type of setup needs to longer to allow room for those connections. Just look at the innards of a CC CM36 motor; the coils are actually a few mm shorter than a regular S can motor (same external size). So, it would be difficult to do this with a motor without that extra room in the back. And lets not even mention being able to make those connections without interfering with the insertion or operation of the rotor.

3) Connections shorting. Having soldered connections inside there is possible that they will short against the shell. You could heatshrink it, but that will wear away over time with the constant vibrations and such. Sure, this is possible, but not for your average novice solderer.

does anyone know what kind of chemical solution is used to strip the varnish on the motor leads? i have tried the dremel steel brush and that doesnt work. i have tried the lighter and that doesnt work. and i have finally used a dremel sand disk and that worked but only on the outer layer of wire. so this finally got solder to stick but it doesnt actually penetrate the wire to make a good connection.

the good thing is that i havent cut the wire or anything. i just removed enough heatshrink to expose the varnished area to see if i could get this to work before i actually cut the wire shorter. if i cant find a way to strip that varnish i will just leave the wires the stock length and solder a butt-joint there. it would just look a lot cleaner if i can get the joint right up next to the can.