2200 Combo running hot !

[GREYGHOST]

Originally Posted by Sammus

put much heavier oil in the centre diff. i bet your centre diff is unloading and making the motor rev out harder that it should be, look for the front wheels panning.

I know a billion of my friends have complained about hot motors on their 3 diff cars, and every time it's because the centre diff unloads too easily and the motor revs super hard with minimal load on it.

Was thinking that might be a problem,especially with all this grunt and rpm with 5s the motor puts out.Thanks for briging that back to mind,definately will try something heavier...maybe 30k?

[Sammus]

yeah 30k at least, maybe like 100k or higher even. I think team assoc. even make a 300k diff oil - probably a little extreme for a racer, but still viable in an MT.. The thing is with an electric motor you have peak torque at 0rpm, so when you're on and off the throttle it is much easier to unload the diff than with a nitro motor, that simply doesnt have the balls in that lower rpm range. Be weary that with heavier diff fluid, even though the diff can still unload, itll be a bit harder to, and will make it much easier to flip the truck if you're a bit too keen with the throttle :p

[othello]

By using a 30k instead of a 10k diff oil in your center diff, more power will be channeled to the rear of your truggy which might lead to faster acceleration (wheelies might become an issue though). This can only be achieved with more power put to the ground which equals to higher peak Amp draw which normaly translates to more heat.

On the other side you will apply throttle more gently as the car is likely to wheelie. Long story short it really depends on your throttle management how hot your motor gets. My eagletree logs showed higher amp peaks with higher diff oil in the centerdiff when using full power. But with lighter centerdiff oil you might constantly trying to use full power (more full throttle) which could also lead to a hotter motor, eventhough peak amps are lower.

I wouldn't say a motor runs hotter only due to the fact the center diff is too loose. It's a combination of a lot of variables.

[RC-Monster Mike]

I use 10k in my truggy center diff. It can unload if I make aggressive stabs at the throttle(and also heat up), but heavier oil negatively affects handling on my track(loose and bumpy). All the "possible issues" discussed here can impact heat, but a smooth throttle finger will make a huge difference as well. When I am on the track, I hardly spin a tire. My setup is a little different(1515/2.5d on 5s), so the power isn't as aggressive, but I also use a mild throttle curve to help with low end control. If i am tooling around and making sharp, aggressive stabs at the throttle, I can heat things up.

[bdebde]

"aggressive stabs at the throttle".... no one here does that

[GREYGHOST]

Originally Posted by RC-Monster Mike

I use 10k in my truggy center diff. It can unload if I make aggressive stabs at the throttle(and also heat up), but heavier oil negatively affects handling on my track(loose and bumpy). All the "possible issues" discussed here can impact heat, but a smooth throttle finger will make a huge difference as well. When I am on the track, I hardly spin a tire. My setup is a little different(1515/2.5d on 5s), so the power isn't as aggressive, but I also use a mild throttle curve to help with low end control. If i am tooling around and making sharp, aggressive stabs at the throttle, I can heat things up.

I think the castle link programming and I will play around for a while.

[Semi Pro]

Originally Posted by RC-Monster Mike

I use 10k in my truggy center diff. It can unload if I make aggressive stabs at the throttle(and also heat up), but heavier oil negatively affects handling on my track(loose and bumpy). All the "possible issues" discussed here can impact heat, but a smooth throttle finger will make a huge difference as well. When I am on the track, I hardly spin a tire. My setup is a little different(1515/2.5d on 5s), so the power isn't as aggressive, but I also use a mild throttle curve to help with low end control. If i am tooling around and making sharp, aggressive stabs at the throttle, I can heat things up.

mike can you post a pic of your throtle curve so we can see it, thanks

[RC-Monster Mike]

For the general throttle curve - grab the curve at 50% and pull it down to 40%. This is where i usually start - softens the low end nicely and smoothly transitions to high speed. :)

[GREYGHOST]

Ran my Mbx5 buggy and truggy just to compare them with the two different setups.The buggy is a 36-60 on 4s and it kills the truggy in speed and handling with the truggy running on 5s 2200 combo.Heck the buggy has 7k-50k-3k setup for fluids and runs the same gearing except for the tire size factor.I'm going to put a 70 can medusa in the truggy without changing anything else just to satisfy my suspicion about this 2200.Pretty much tried everything else.Put a 12 tooth pinion on there and made it nice and quick...and slow on the top end,but actually got hotter,up to 178.Settings on the throttle curve are like Mikes and it really mellows it out till you pull the trigger harder.I did the curve to my buggy and it really makes a difference in driveability.You can adjust you radio settings also to get similar results.Put some 30k in the center last night and will run it again with the 14 tooth to check the unloading situation.Putting all new drive axels and cvd's in cause they are a little bit warped.

[Dragonfueled]

I'm curious how the medusa does

[GREYGHOST]

I'm thinking the medusa+ mmm esc is one bad azz setup.My buggy on that combo is AWESOME on 4s .No b.s.

[GREYGHOST]

Originally Posted by othello

By using a 30k instead of a 10k diff oil in your center diff, more power will be channeled to the rear of your truggy which might lead to faster acceleration (wheelies might become an issue though). This can only be achieved with more power put to the ground which equals to higher peak Amp draw which normaly translates to more heat.

On the other side you will apply throttle more gently as the car is likely to wheelie. Long story short it really depends on your throttle management how hot your motor gets. My eagletree logs showed higher amp peaks with higher diff oil in the centerdiff when using full power. But with lighter centerdiff oil you might constantly trying to use full power (more full throttle) which could also lead to a hotter motor, eventhough peak amps are lower.

I wouldn't say a motor runs hotter only due to the fact the center diff is too loose. It's a combination of a lot of variables.

I feel this. Very well put. You obvioudly have a grasp of what is real and what is spoken sir. And thanks Sammus,your on track too,appreaciated.!

The kv of the combo motors are to high in my opinion, Mike tells me to run a 2.5d 1700kv in my truggy with 5s. he says thats the perfect combo for these truggys. I dont know why castle wants us to run 50-60,000 rpm's...I just dont get it.

[Pdelcast]

Originally Posted by coolrunnings

The kv of the combo motors are to high in my opinion, Mike tells me to run a 2.5d 1700kv in my truggy with 5s. he says thats the perfect combo for these truggys. I dont know why castle wants us to run 50-60,000 rpm's...I just dont get it.

Cause very very few people will be running something other than 4s.

We are coming out with both 1800Kv and 1500Kv motors -- watch for 'em.

Patrick

[bdebde]

Originally Posted by Pdelcast

Cause very very few people will be running something other than 4s.

We are coming out with both 1800Kv and 1500Kv motors -- watch for 'em.

Patrick

Well, that is more like what we need, I can't wait! Right on Patrick!