slash and rustler rear arms

[_paralyzed_]

are they the same length? I know toe in is different, but are they the same length? I want to order flm cvd's for a rustler, but don't want the extended ones that need the extended arms.

[rootar]

they make slash specific cvds, edit my bad, i didnt read it good, the slash cvds should work fine on the rustler the arms and hubs and tranny are all the same......should not be any length issues

[BrianG]

If you're unsure, give them a call: 636-742-4181 (tech line)

[_paralyzed_]

^^^I wanted answers Brian, so I asked you guys! Traxxas tech support is hit or miss. What'd you end up doing for slash axles?

[skellyo]

The Slash arms are shorter than the electric Rustler. The Slash CVD's are the same length as what is used on the Nitro Rustler, not electric. You'll want these CVD's for standard rustler rear arms:
http://rc-monster.com/proddetail.php?prod=flm26515

[BrianG]

oops, that was FLM's tech line.

I ended up getting a set of FLM CVDs. They fit perfect and are holding up very well. I'm just running MM/Medusa 36-50-2200 on 4s though.

[skellyo]

Here it is a bit more clear:

Slash/Nitro Rustler CVD's:
http://rc-monster.com/proddetail.php?prod=flmslashcvd

Standard Rustler/Stampede CVD's:
http://rc-monster.com/proddetail.php?prod=flm26515

Ext Arm Rustler/Stampede CVD's:
http://rc-monster.com/proddetail.php?prod=FLM26715

[_paralyzed_]

Thanks skellyo. I knew someone would know. And if the flm's are working on 4s for Brian, they should hold up for me. Sweet.

[skellyo]

Originally Posted by _paralyzed_

Thanks skellyo. I knew someone would know. And if the flm's are working on 4s for Brian, they should hold up for me. Sweet.

FWIW, I've got Traxxas steel output yokes on stock sliders and they're holding up to 4S with a Medusa 36-60-2000. That's also with running buggy tires/wheels (Badlands knockoffs from eBay).

[_paralyzed_]

Originally Posted by skellyo

FWIW, I've got Traxxas steel output yokes on stock sliders and they're holding up to 4S with a Medusa 36-60-2000. That's also with running buggy tires/wheels (Badlands knockoffs from eBay).

That's what I was running, but I added a spool and started snapping stub axles. Planetarys were lasting a few runs..........

[BrianG]

I tried the steel yokes with stock sliders, but the non-metal yokes were twisting after only 5 minutes. Kinda makes no sense to have metal yokes on the diff output but retain plastic on the stub axle part.

[skellyo]

Originally Posted by BrianG

I tried the steel yokes with stock sliders, but the non-metal yokes were twisting after only 5 minutes. Kinda makes no sense to have metal yokes on the diff output but retain plastic on the stub axle part.

I'm not sure why mine are lasting longer than yours. I am certainly not gentle on it. I've popped a total of 1 yoke through about 6 full packs of running on 4S in my Slash. I've had no twisted sliders either. It is certainly not geared that conservatively either. Perhaps I just have magic sliders?

[BrianG]

I dunno either. But I never actually broke a yoke, just twisted them. I hate keeping an obviously weak link in the vehicle so I just got the CVDs.

[skellyo]

Originally Posted by BrianG

I dunno either. But I never actually broke a yoke, just twisted them. I hate keeping an obviously weak link in the vehicle so I just got the CVDs.

CVD's are my next step if I have any problems with what's on there now. I only bought the steel yokes because my LHS was out of the stock plastic yokes and I wanted something immediately.

[kulangflow]

Originally Posted by BrianG

I dunno either. But I never actually broke a yoke, just twisted them. I hate keeping an obviously weak link in the vehicle so I just got the CVDs.

Off topic, but I just noticed you became an Admin. When did that happen? Congrats!