Painting a lexan body

I am going to need to paint a clear lexan body, I have heard that you want to paint the inside and not the outside....is this true? and as far as paint do you have to use the special paint that the hobby stores sell or could I just use a gloss spraypaint from Home Depot

[rootar]

You paint it from the inside, and you need polycarboate compatible paint (what the hooby shop sells not homedepot).

for a nice solid one color paint job (good for your first go)......

-start by washing the inside of the body with warm soap and water, rinse and dry with a lint free cloth to hair dryer

-apply your window mask (on the inside) making sure the edges are tightly pressed down

-now take some fine steel wool and scuff all the inside area of the body that wil be painted, thiss will allow the paint to adhere to the lexan better.

-wash and rinse it agian in warm water, dry the same as before

-warm your spary can in a bowl of hot water, this will let the paint come out in a finer mist

- Apply your 1st coat of paint, very light loat, you should be able to easliy see through it. then allow it to dry.

-apply the 2 -5 coats the same way very lightly each time, allowing it to dry full between each. your 3-5 coats you should have a nice solid color you cant see through.

- now apply your BACKING coat (usually white,silver, or black) this will effect how your colors "pop" from the body. i like to use silver or black backs with reds and blues and use white with lighter bodies

-now carfully remove the window mask while the last coat is wet. then let it dry

-now trim the body to the body lines, ream the mount holes, and peel the overspray film of the outside and you have a nice DURABLE single color paint job on your body...


btw all this should be done when the temperature is atleast 70degrees.

[JThiessen]

Here is some good reading on painting lexan bodies
http://www.rctech.net/articles/paint...ntedmyst.shtml

[maxair45]

Originally Posted by rootar

You paint it from the inside, and you need polycarboate compatible paint (what the hooby shop sells not homedepot).

for a nice solid one color paint job (good for your first go)......

-start by washing the inside of the body with warm soap and water, rinse and dry with a lint free cloth to hair dryer

-apply your window mask (on the inside) making sure the edges are tightly pressed down

-now take some fine steel wool and scuff all the inside area of the body that wil be painted, thiss will allow the paint to adhere to the lexan better.

-wash and rinse it agian in warm water, dry the same as before

-warm your spary can in a bowl of hot water, this will let the paint come out in a finer mist

- Apply your 1st coat of paint, very light loat, you should be able to easliy see through it. then allow it to dry.

-apply the 2 -5 coats the same way very lightly each time, allowing it to dry full between each. your 3-5 coats you should have a nice solid color you cant see through.

- now apply your BACKING coat (usually white,silver, or black) this will effect how your colors "pop" from the body. i like to use silver or black backs with reds and blues and use white with lighter bodies

-now carfully remove the window mask while the last coat is wet. then let it dry

-now trim the body to the body lines, ream the mount holes, and peel the overspray film of the outside and you have a nice DURABLE single color paint job on your body...


btw all this should be done when the temperature is atleast 70degrees.

+1
Although some people cut the body before they paint it(I do this).

I have the stock pre cut body for a Losi 8T

[BrianG]

Or, just forego the paint altogether and tell people you did it that way on purpose so everyone can see the BL power under the hood! I've started doing that, but not for bragging; because I am a poor driver and the shell lasts about 10 runs if I'm lucky.

[E-Revonut]

Your backing paint can be regular spray paint. At least that's what I've used on the four bodies that I've painted. It's held up fine and is much cheaper, esspecially since I had it laying around. It's actually aluminum colored engine enamel.

[rootar]

i also do all the trimming and do the body mount holes before i paint i dunno why i typed it like that....

I prefer automotive grades paints to hobby store paints, personally. I have used just about every brand of RC/lexan paint on the market, and the only one that compares to what I use full time is Spax Stix, and it's still quite lacking. Water based paints are safer for the user, but don't create a true bond to lexan.

Another quick lesson that you found anywhere else on RC forums... don't use soap to wash your bodies out. Anything that is safe for momma's hands in the dish water is guaranteed to leave an oily residue behind. This doesn't mean that you're going to see it, or even notice it's there, but this comprises durability, and adhesion. 70% alcohol that you find at wal-mart or any store, is the best option if you don't have proper surface prep cleaners. Use a terry towel or something similar to whip on the alcohol, then hit it again with a dry lint free rag to whip it out. No soap, no water.

You can use any lacquer based paints on Lexan, you just have to prep the surface properly, and use and adhesion promoter. Honestly... all paints that go on lexan should have an adhesion promoter. This would eliminate the need for steel wool all together too.

To back your paints, you should be using some sort of protectant... another various color won't last any longer than the paint you applied for looks. If you're looking for a cheap alternative, Rust-O-leum crystal clear enamel is the only way to go... many pro painters use this, and I did for a long time. I've since switch my entire line to automotive grade products, and the durability is much great than any RC brand paint or backer. But when you're looking to paint something up quick, and just put some color to your ride, RC grade paints are fine!

Hope this helps!
Adam

[JThiessen]

Originally Posted by Custom G-Rafix

Honestly... all paints that go on lexan should have an adhesion promoter. This would eliminate the need for steel wool all together too.
Adam

Hey Adam - great info.
Could you provide a link to a hobby grade adhesion promoter? I swear I've looked for a product like that, but didnt find anything that I thought would work (but my interpretation of the labels may have been the issue).

I know of no 'hobby' grade adhesion promoter. You can run by any Car Quest auto parts store. They have same stuff i use, but in an aerosal can. The stuff from the can has a bit different formula, and isn't quite as consistent but over all does the trick.

This is a link to the cleaner I use...

http://semproducts.com/Catalog.asp?prod=79

and a link to the ahesion promoter...

http://semproducts.com/Catalog.asp?prod=146

If any of you guys are looking for a splash of this stuff to go through your airbrush I can hook up with some.

Adam