Hobbywing 150A Ezrun esc review

[superek4]

Hi, I saw hobbywing ezrun 80a esc review I tot hv a 150a esc review will be good. Any good or bad comment?I just got 1 waiting to be tuned n race

[Metallover]

So you have a 150a version? I'd love to see a reveiw. Post up some pics of the esc and your setup.

[superek4]

sure, I used a airplane hobbywing 100a esc for replacement due to my ex mmmv2 n v3 failure. I found that it can handle heat better. So I sold my mmmv3 away n gave the 150a a try I m sure it won't disappoint me.

[superek4]

it's after my 22nd race guess wat? The esc burnt not due to race but due to short circuit. Use a 6s 5000 zippy for my 30main but before the race, when I set the punch to 1. It burnt worst thing now is I email hobbywing, no reply. My worst fear came true

[littlegiant]

Originally Posted by superek4

it's after my 22nd race guess wat? The esc burnt not due to race but due to short circuit. Use a 6s 5000 zippy for my 30main but before the race, when I set the punch to 1. It burnt worst thing now is I email hobbywing, no reply. My worst fear came true

How did it get short circuited after 22 races? Anymore information on it?

[jsr]

Did the ESC short or did the motor or battery short and took the ESC out with it?

[jsr]

This is my review I posted in another forum:

I had about an hour today to work on my RCs and pulled out the MM + KD36-74-6XL 2800kV and put in the EZRun 150A ESC and SL3674 2350kV motor.
The motor is the same physical size as the 6XL it replaces. It's a purdy blue instead of the KD36's red (I like blue much better). The motor includes a heatsink and a fan that's mounted onto the heatsink. The fan plugs into a fan output connector on the ESC. This is a great feature! It's so clean looking! See my EZRun 80A review for what the setup looks like. The EZRun 2350kV motor has about 1.5mm less inner winding clearance for screws than the KD36-6XL, so I had to use a spacer.

The 150A ESC is the same physical size as the 80A. However, it uses a different PCB (black instead of the 80A's green PCB) and much larger, higher voltage, higher capacitance input filter caps. It also uses 10ga wiring instead of 12ga found on the 80A. I wanted to keep some flexibility in the individual pieces, i.e. should I ever run a super hot motor or convert a 1/8 MT that weighs 12+lbs, I want to use the 10ga wire and 5.5mm bullet connectors, and if I decide to use the motor with an 80A other other ESC, I want to use the more common 4mm bullet connectors. So I soldered 5.5mm bullets to the ESC, 4mm bullets to the motor, and made 5.5mm bullet to 4mm bullet adapters. Works out quite nicely. A note to users of the 80A and 150A ESCs, do NOT use the "auto-detect" feature for LVC. It works with 2s, 4s, and 6s only. Even then, I recommend (as does the Hobbywing manual) to set the cell count yourself! I did auto-detect without fully reading the manual and didn't see that it didn't work with 3s, and it was slow and eventually kicked off LVC constantly. Once I manually set it to 3s, DAYAMN!!!...it started hauling ass! Tires ballooning! No steering because the front tires kept going off the ground! On 4s, acceleration would be even quicker! I do plan to also run it on 4s also. I have enough pinions to run both battery setups and I'd gear them to run about the same top speed. Which one I run at the track will depend on how the track is. If I need faster acceleration, I'll run the 4s. If I need more control, I might run the 3s. For general running around, I plan to run the 3s setup. It looks to be hitting 40+mph easily...possibly more. It was 8pm when I got it all working, so it was hard for me to see and I didn't want to floor the throttle at night where I can't see what I'll run into.

Added:
Ran the truggy a bit today. ST-1 looks about 39mph. The ST-1 accelerates really quickly and hits top speed very quickly. It looks overgeared (too short a gearing) with the 19T pinion and 50T spur. I'm wondering how it would do with a 46T Kyosho spur and 20T pinion.

I was doing top speed runs up and down the street till the batteries hit LVC. The hottest the 150A ESC got was 86F and the hottest the motor got was 112F and that was with a lot of braking because I was running out of space on the street. It was fairly cool today...about 67-73F depending on if the clouds came in or not.

The setup looks to have power to spare and seems to want taller gearing, which means even more top speed which would make me run out of street even faster!

A couple of reasons I like the EZRun much better than the MM it replaced:

1. NO GLITCHING AT ALL!!!! The MM setup would glitch a lot, which sucks when you're in mid-air and need to correct for your landing and it glitches and you land retarded! It's probably due to the combo with the external UBEC, but I didn't have a problem with the same type UBEC on another setup, so it was only with the MM.

2. It's FASTER!

Other reasons...

3. It runs so much cooler!

4. Built in UBEC is a much appreciated feature.

5. I love that little program card! So easy to pull it out and set everything up. I don't need to drag my laptop to my garage, hook up a USB cable, blah blah.

Compared to the 80A/SL3665 2300kV setup in my E-Sav, the E-Sav one is faster, but that's because it's running on 4s. I'm sure the 150A/SL3674 2350kV setup would be just as fast, if not faster and more brutal on 4s.

Here's a description of my truggy and setup:

Thunder Tiger ST-1 Truggy
EZRun 150A ESC
EZRun SL3674 2350kV Motor
Robinson Racing 19T Pinion
Stock TTR ST-1 aluminum shocks and black springs (springs preloaded 10mm front, 20mm rear)
AE 60wt shock oil
JConcepts Rulux 1/2-offset Wheels
HPI DirtBonz Tires
Currently 3s LiPos (2x 3s packs rated at 2750mAh each, 69A discharge in parallel = 5500mAh, 138A discharge)
If I run 4s, I will use a 12T or 13T pinion

[superek4]

sorry it was the first race for the hobbywing esc on 22nd of march.the burnt was caused I think when I change the setting of the esc. Moreover I was using 6 cells,only the esc burnt motor n batt was ok.

I think it has some issue with this patch of 150esc, I heard from the agent. But anyone has tried asking for support from them? Heard that there's always no reply.

[littlegiant]

Originally Posted by jsr

This is my review I posted in another forum:

I had about an hour today to work on my RCs and pulled out the MM + KD36-74-6XL 2800kV and put in the EZRun 150A ESC and SL3674 2350kV motor.
The motor is the same physical size as the 6XL it replaces. It's a purdy blue instead of the KD36's red (I like blue much better). The motor includes a heatsink and a fan that's mounted onto the heatsink. The fan plugs into a fan output connector on the ESC. This is a great feature! It's so clean looking! See my EZRun 80A review for what the setup looks like. The EZRun 2350kV motor has about 1.5mm less inner winding clearance for screws than the KD36-6XL, so I had to use a spacer.

The 150A ESC is the same physical size as the 80A. However, it uses a different PCB (black instead of the 80A's green PCB) and much larger, higher voltage, higher capacitance input filter caps. It also uses 10ga wiring instead of 12ga found on the 80A. I wanted to keep some flexibility in the individual pieces, i.e. should I ever run a super hot motor or convert a 1/8 MT that weighs 12+lbs, I want to use the 10ga wire and 5.5mm bullet connectors, and if I decide to use the motor with an 80A other other ESC, I want to use the more common 4mm bullet connectors. So I soldered 5.5mm bullets to the ESC, 4mm bullets to the motor, and made 5.5mm bullet to 4mm bullet adapters. Works out quite nicely. A note to users of the 80A and 150A ESCs, do NOT use the "auto-detect" feature for LVC. It works with 2s, 4s, and 6s only. Even then, I recommend (as does the Hobbywing manual) to set the cell count yourself! I did auto-detect without fully reading the manual and didn't see that it didn't work with 3s, and it was slow and eventually kicked off LVC constantly. Once I manually set it to 3s, DAYAMN!!!...it started hauling ass! Tires ballooning! No steering because the front tires kept going off the ground! On 4s, acceleration would be even quicker! I do plan to also run it on 4s also. I have enough pinions to run both battery setups and I'd gear them to run about the same top speed. Which one I run at the track will depend on how the track is. If I need faster acceleration, I'll run the 4s. If I need more control, I might run the 3s. For general running around, I plan to run the 3s setup. It looks to be hitting 40+mph easily...possibly more. It was 8pm when I got it all working, so it was hard for me to see and I didn't want to floor the throttle at night where I can't see what I'll run into.

Added:
Ran the truggy a bit today. ST-1 looks about 39mph. The ST-1 accelerates really quickly and hits top speed very quickly. It looks overgeared (too short a gearing) with the 19T pinion and 50T spur. I'm wondering how it would do with a 46T Kyosho spur and 20T pinion.

I was doing top speed runs up and down the street till the batteries hit LVC. The hottest the 150A ESC got was 86F and the hottest the motor got was 112F and that was with a lot of braking because I was running out of space on the street. It was fairly cool today...about 67-73F depending on if the clouds came in or not.

The setup looks to have power to spare and seems to want taller gearing, which means even more top speed which would make me run out of street even faster!

A couple of reasons I like the EZRun much better than the MM it replaced:

1. NO GLITCHING AT ALL!!!! The MM setup would glitch a lot, which sucks when you're in mid-air and need to correct for your landing and it glitches and you land retarded! It's probably due to the combo with the external UBEC, but I didn't have a problem with the same type UBEC on another setup, so it was only with the MM.

2. It's FASTER!

Other reasons...

3. It runs so much cooler!

4. Built in UBEC is a much appreciated feature.

5. I love that little program card! So easy to pull it out and set everything up. I don't need to drag my laptop to my garage, hook up a USB cable, blah blah.

Compared to the 80A/SL3665 2300kV setup in my E-Sav, the E-Sav one is faster, but that's because it's running on 4s. I'm sure the 150A/SL3674 2350kV setup would be just as fast, if not faster and more brutal on 4s.

Here's a description of my truggy and setup:

Thunder Tiger ST-1 Truggy
EZRun 150A ESC
EZRun SL3674 2350kV Motor
Robinson Racing 19T Pinion
Stock TTR ST-1 aluminum shocks and black springs (springs preloaded 10mm front, 20mm rear)
AE 60wt shock oil
JConcepts Rulux 1/2-offset Wheels
HPI DirtBonz Tires
Currently 3s LiPos (2x 3s packs rated at 2750mAh each, 69A discharge in parallel = 5500mAh, 138A discharge)
If I run 4s, I will use a 12T or 13T pinion

So did u have any problem setting the punch control of the HW 150A? There have been a couple of HW150As getting destroyed when the punch control was set to 1. Was it just a bad batch? Is it safe to get the HW 150A now?

[superek4]

u should ask me, mine was destroyed when set to 1.anyway I sent mine for service n most prob will get a replacement as mine was burnt. Will post pics later

[superek4]

I heard it was a bad patch

[superek4]

this is how it looks like BBQ

[littlegiant]

Originally Posted by superek4

u should ask me, mine was destroyed when set to 1.anyway I sent mine for service n most prob will get a replacement as mine was burnt. Will post pics later

Sent it to HW straight or through your agent for a replacement?

[superek4]

I sent thru agent safer n can pester agent

Hi, Superek4,

could you send the mail to hobbywing again? The mail address is sales@hobbywing.com and support@hobbyywing.com. Sometimes the mail systems in China cannot work properly because of the politics problem. That is not a joke.

I found this thread just a few minutes ago when I was browsering the forum.

Have you sent the burnt ESC to the agent?

I have very few time on this forum, so please send message to me by e-mail although it is always unreliable.