wasp .28 breakin and tuning

[squeeforever]

i have a wasp .28 i have installed in my jt racing t-maxx and went to break it in a little while ago and its acting kind of funny. first off, it is running about 230 on average but i got one reading of 300 for some reason. another thing is the carb was set at 3 1/2 out on the high speed from the factory. its now at about 5 1/2 and still running 220. also, there is this little screw im not sure what it is. it is on the oposite side as the low speed and is not a needle screw. what is it? how far out should it be and should it be adjusted? any help would be appriciated.

EDIT: it is also sounding kind of funny. it is almost like it is studdering. like na na na na na na na na na (if that helps) instead of like my revo that sounds like naaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa...

[tyrewq]

probably the idle adjustment thingy? to set idle speed of engine? i'm assuming it's like my engine too. the manual said it determines how fast the engine loads up. they like to do 20-30 seconds before loading up.

not sure. i'm new to nitro myself

here are some things i found out:==============

Here are the factory needle settings:

Approximately 4.5 turns from fully closed (tighten all the way then loosen the appropriate number of turns) for the top end needle and 5.5 turns from fully closed for the bottom end needle. Leave the mid-range needle untouched.

I copy / pasted this directly from the instruction sheet. The engine that we have been running here at Team Orion is almost exactly at that setting still. As always settings change due to weather and location, but that should get you back to the starting point!

The factory setting for the mid range is 1/4 turn out from bottomed out.

REMEMBER: It sometimes takes a few days at the track or in the backyard to really find that perfect tune. Most pro level racers often go club racing a few times to get their race engines tuned to where they like it. So be patient and give it some time. Usually when you have good power when the engine is cold but it goes away when it is at full temp. , you are probably to lean. A common mistake is to lean it out when it doesnt have enough power. A Rich settings lets the engine have more fuel in the cylinder which creates more compression, so a rich setting most of the time creates better power. Just tune the high speed needle so it cleans out good and accelerates throughout the RPM range.

I hope that helps.

Gary Guest

Edited by GaryGuest (17:01 10/11/2004)
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this came from
http://www.team-orion.com/toptalk/sh...=&fpart=2&vc=1

[Papa]

Here is a tech article Written by the late Ron Paris. I have found this article to be a good read.

[squeeforever]

so i should leave it at factory settings for breaking?