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RC-Monster Dual Brushless
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Posts: 4,236
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Cape Cod, Mass.
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Anyone using Mike's v3 Revo diff kit? I have a few questions -
03.31.2009, 08:41 PM
It seems that once I tighten the case screws down tight, it binds the gears...I have shimmed, taken out the shim, etc...always the same prob...If I back off of the case screws 1/2 turn all is well...wierd
Also, I am confused as to what the large washer, (compression washer?)not sure as to what to call it does. There is also a black washer as well w/the kit... a little thicker than the shim, does that go between the bearings? Maybe I am missing something?
1. MBX-6 T8 1900KV, RX8 ON 4S
2. MBX-5T 1520, MMM ON 5S
3. MBX-5 ONROAD CONVERSION 1515, MMM ON 5S
4. MRX-3 ON ROAD CONVERSION 1512, MMM ON 6S
5. TEN T 2650 T8, MMP ON 3S
Last edited by magman; 03.31.2009 at 08:42 PM.
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BMW M Power!
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Posts: 1,910
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: SoCal
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03.31.2009, 09:08 PM
I have mine built so that the smaller diameter, thinner black washer sits between the bearings on the pinion gear, and the thicker one sits outside between the outdrive and the bearings.
Then, the compression washer is place on the outside of the bearing that is on the opposite side of the ring gear of the diff, which forces the assembly further away from the pinion, to reduce binding. I also have the shim included on that same side (opposite of ring gear) between the bearing and diff itself to further space it.
This way, my diffs are relatively free with just one small spot where it feels a bit tight. I figure after the diffs wear in this will clear up.
However, I did find that after removing the small black washer between the bearings on the pinion that I was able to find a point where there would be completely smooth operation, but then the pinion would slide forward and back.
I plan to get some shims to replace this black washer so I can space it better and hopefully find a completely smooth operating point.
BL Revo: CF G2R, LMT1940/7, 6S FP 30C Lipos, MMM, Hitec 5955TG
CRT .5: 7075 Ext Chassis, LMT1930/7, FP 25C 3S Lipos, MM
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RC-Monster Dual Brushless
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Posts: 4,236
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Cape Cod, Mass.
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03.31.2009, 09:16 PM
Looks like I need to disassemble my diff after reading your post. I also agree w/you that the black washer is a tad too thick and would be better served w/thinner shims.
I n my other diffs, there is a tad bit of movement front to back and I have yet to have a problem. I also found this to be true after removing the thicker black washer and refitting. I would be concerned not using something between the bearings though.
What did you find w/the case...
1. MBX-6 T8 1900KV, RX8 ON 4S
2. MBX-5T 1520, MMM ON 5S
3. MBX-5 ONROAD CONVERSION 1515, MMM ON 5S
4. MRX-3 ON ROAD CONVERSION 1512, MMM ON 6S
5. TEN T 2650 T8, MMP ON 3S
Last edited by magman; 03.31.2009 at 09:18 PM.
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RC-Monster Dual Brushless
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Posts: 4,236
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Cape Cod, Mass.
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03.31.2009, 09:26 PM
I forgot to ask how you like them?
1. MBX-6 T8 1900KV, RX8 ON 4S
2. MBX-5T 1520, MMM ON 5S
3. MBX-5 ONROAD CONVERSION 1515, MMM ON 5S
4. MRX-3 ON ROAD CONVERSION 1512, MMM ON 6S
5. TEN T 2650 T8, MMP ON 3S
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RC-Monster Mod
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Posts: 6,597
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: NJ
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03.31.2009, 09:54 PM
Here you guys - This is the draft build instructions...
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BMW M Power!
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Posts: 1,910
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: SoCal
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03.31.2009, 10:14 PM
Ugh! I was like 90% sure that the large washer went between the bearings in the notch in the diff case. I just gave up when it ended up being pretty difficult to get in there (I figured there would be no way it should be that tight if it was supposed to go there).
Looks like I'm disassembling. At least I didn't put the diffs in my truck yet.
BL Revo: CF G2R, LMT1940/7, 6S FP 30C Lipos, MMM, Hitec 5955TG
CRT .5: 7075 Ext Chassis, LMT1930/7, FP 25C 3S Lipos, MM
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RC-Monster Dual Brushless
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Posts: 4,236
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Cape Cod, Mass.
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03.31.2009, 10:17 PM
Thanks Chris....I am glad that I did only one before I asked!
1. MBX-6 T8 1900KV, RX8 ON 4S
2. MBX-5T 1520, MMM ON 5S
3. MBX-5 ONROAD CONVERSION 1515, MMM ON 5S
4. MRX-3 ON ROAD CONVERSION 1512, MMM ON 6S
5. TEN T 2650 T8, MMP ON 3S
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RC-Monster Dual Brushless
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Posts: 4,236
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Cape Cod, Mass.
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03.31.2009, 10:18 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by BP-Revo
Ugh! I was like 90% sure that the large washer went between the bearings in the notch in the diff case. I just gave up when it ended up being pretty difficult to get in there (I figured there would be no way it should be that tight if it was supposed to go there).
Looks like I'm disassembling. At least I didn't put the diffs in my truck yet.
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Don't feel bad...I will be doing the same thing
1. MBX-6 T8 1900KV, RX8 ON 4S
2. MBX-5T 1520, MMM ON 5S
3. MBX-5 ONROAD CONVERSION 1515, MMM ON 5S
4. MRX-3 ON ROAD CONVERSION 1512, MMM ON 6S
5. TEN T 2650 T8, MMP ON 3S
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BMW M Power!
Offline
Posts: 1,910
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: SoCal
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03.31.2009, 10:24 PM
I feel worse cause I nearly pointed you in the wrong direction.
BL Revo: CF G2R, LMT1940/7, 6S FP 30C Lipos, MMM, Hitec 5955TG
CRT .5: 7075 Ext Chassis, LMT1930/7, FP 25C 3S Lipos, MM
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RC-Monster Dual Brushless
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Posts: 4,236
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Cape Cod, Mass.
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03.31.2009, 10:26 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by BP-Revo
I feel worse cause I nearly pointed you in the wrong direction.
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No worries!  The imp't part is getting it RIGHT before we install them and ruin them. Now that we know how it goes....
1. MBX-6 T8 1900KV, RX8 ON 4S
2. MBX-5T 1520, MMM ON 5S
3. MBX-5 ONROAD CONVERSION 1515, MMM ON 5S
4. MRX-3 ON ROAD CONVERSION 1512, MMM ON 6S
5. TEN T 2650 T8, MMP ON 3S
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RC-Monster Mod
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Posts: 6,597
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: NJ
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03.31.2009, 10:46 PM
Go with the photo's guys - They are from mikes build! :)
Sorry for the delay in getting them out - I was traveling last week.
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RC-Monster Dual Brushless
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Posts: 4,236
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Cape Cod, Mass.
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03.31.2009, 10:52 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Arct1k
Go with the photo's guys - They are from mikes build! :)
Sorry for the delay in getting them out - I was traveling last week.
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No worries...as I stated above...better to get it right before we install them.
Thanks again for the directions!
1. MBX-6 T8 1900KV, RX8 ON 4S
2. MBX-5T 1520, MMM ON 5S
3. MBX-5 ONROAD CONVERSION 1515, MMM ON 5S
4. MRX-3 ON ROAD CONVERSION 1512, MMM ON 6S
5. TEN T 2650 T8, MMP ON 3S
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RC-Monster Dual Brushless
Offline
Posts: 4,236
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Cape Cod, Mass.
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04.01.2009, 09:28 AM
Ok...got the front diff assembled..perfect!
My question is this...in the directions it says that I cannot use the extended drivecups for the Traxxas extended arms? Or did I misunderstand. I am hoping to use the extended rear arms w/cvd which are already on the truck
1. MBX-6 T8 1900KV, RX8 ON 4S
2. MBX-5T 1520, MMM ON 5S
3. MBX-5 ONROAD CONVERSION 1515, MMM ON 5S
4. MRX-3 ON ROAD CONVERSION 1512, MMM ON 6S
5. TEN T 2650 T8, MMP ON 3S
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RC-Monster Mod
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Posts: 6,597
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: NJ
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04.01.2009, 09:43 AM
Are you using the cups or 6mm outputs?
I havn't tested them yet but was worried that mikes included cups wouldn't be long enough for the swept back arms. Traxxas sells the longer cups for the extended arms.
I'd therefore suggested if using 6mm outputs and the traxxas longer cups. I've yet to measure up though if this is truely required.
Rgds
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RC-Monster Carbon Fiber
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Posts: 310
Join Date: Jul 2008
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04.01.2009, 12:11 PM
The traxxas cvd's dont work that great when using the traxxas extend cups and the swept back arms. I have tried this setup on a stock traxxas diff with the hubs in both the 10mm and 19mm position. Cvds kept pulling out of the cups. If you want to use the swept back arms, I would suggest the Summit plastic shafts or the MIP new CVDs that have a telescoping steel hex drive on them.
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