My e-revo brushless edition build

[mistercrash]

REAR SHOCK TOWER SHIM

I made this carbon fiber shim that goes under the rear shock tower, it raises the shocks just enough so that the springs don’t rub on the chassis at full suspension extension.



REAR SKID PLATE PROTECTOR

I made a rear skid plate protector much like the one I made long ago for my 3.3 Revo. It's just a piece of 1/16'' thick steel. It wraps around the rear portion of the skid plate and is secured on the middle skid plate with a screw and nut for added strength.



MOTOR MOUNT

I’ve SEEN some people do this and thought it looked good. I painted the motor mount black and sanded the fins.



AMB PERSONNAL TRANSPONDER

The MC Carbon Racing carbon fiber plate that covers the hole in the chassis left by the single steering conversion is where I decided to mount my PT for racing. I made a big notch in the cover plate because the AMB Personal Transponder does not always transmit well through carbon fiber.



Here is the AMB PT mounted in the truck with aluminum screws and nylon nuts and from underneath, the notch lets the PT transmit clearly to the AMB track loop.

[mistercrash]

Since I will never use this ERBE in water, I decided to modify the receiver box to help get more room to pivot the motor to change the pinion or spur without removing it. I sanded off the portion of the receiver box where the wires go in.



I am now left with two large openings that I will block with a piece of closed cell foam glued to the box with CA glue.



Here is the foam glued to the box to block those openings.



A tiny hole in the foam for the receiver antenna to go through.



And a small slot for the wires to go in the box. The foam wraps around the wires and will keep dirt and dust from coming inside the box. Here is just an extension wire to demonstrate.



I can now pivot the motor far enough to change my pinion or spur gear without removing the motor completely.



HOP UPS

PUSHRODS AND TURNBUCKLES

I am using the Traxxas aluminum red pushrods and Traxxas aluminum red turnbuckles. I would rather have them black but the black pushrods are not out yet. I changed to Traxxas red pushrod spacers since the ERBE came with blue ones. I also like to use the TRA5348 turnbuckle rod ends on all the turnbuckles and the pushrods. They are the biggest and bulkiest rod ends used on the Revos. They are usually used only on the rear turnbuckles but I like to use them everywhere. You can recognize them by the small ring around the base of the ball end.



SHOCKS

Variable damping #3 shock pistons will be used on this ERBE, the rebound holes have been enlarged to 2 mm. I like a fast rebound. I will use black rear springs and gold front springs.

[mistercrash]

CARBON FIBER HOP UPS

A few carbon fiber parts will be used also, a rear bulkhead tie bar, a rear wing tie bar and maybe a chassis cover plate for the hole left by the second servo that won't be used.



PIVOT BALL CAPS

Aluminum pivot ball caps, they are nice with an O ring to keep them from backing out. They have been working great so far.



SWAY BARS

I am using the Tekno sway bar in front and the Traxxas sway bar in the rear. I straightened the black Tekno sway bar to make a ‘’U’’ shape out of it and I use the black Traxxas sway bar for the rear.



I’M DONE BEATING UP CLOWNS

I feel sorry for all the clowns I lured into dark alleys with multi colored marshmallows to take their balloons. I used those clown balloons they use to make balloon puppets to make shock boots out of them for the longest time. I should have used these Jato shock boots from the beginning, they are perfect.

[mistercrash]

OTHER STUFF I DID

SPEKTRUM DX3R

I modified my Spektrum DX3R radio to accept 5 rechargeable AA batteries in order to have 6+ volts.



SET UP SHEET

I made an ERBE set up sheet using Traxxas' set up sheet for the 3.3. You can download and print the jpg file below on a 8.5 X 14 sheet of paper or PM me your email addy to get the pdf file.



PARALLEL HARNESS

My parallel harness with the jumper plug, I made a finger loop on the jumper plug to make it easy to pull the plug out. It pull on the plug and not the wire.

[mistercrash]

4S1P split into 2S1P

I bought those Zippy 5000 mah 30C/40C 4S lipos because I read that they could be squeezed in the battery compartment of the ERBE. They are too big and I couldn’t stuff them in there so I decided to split them and make 4 2S1P packs. I didn’t go with the thin shrink that is commonly used, it is very thin at 0.15 mm. I went to my electronics supply store and bought some heavy duty heat shrink which is more like a hard rubber and is 1 mm thick. Those packs are almost like hard case packs. I scanned and modified the Zippy stickers a bit then printed them on a regular piece of paper and stuck them to the packs using transparent tape to try to make them look factory. I am pleased with the results. The packs weight 280 grams each.

[mistercrash]

DUBRO PROP BALANCER TO BALANCE MONSTER TRUCK WHEELS AND TIRES

I used the original base as a template to make the holes in a 150 mm X 80 mm plate of aluminum. The two pairs of holes are spread apart 120 mm.



This is the rod that goes through the wheel. It comes with two coned shaped pieces. I added an old Maximizer 17 mm hex, a tube of plastic as a spacer and a collar with a set screw.



And this is a sequence of pics on how I assemble a wheel on the shaft in case you haven't figured it out by the pics above already.



LIPO BOX

I read that a .50 caliber AMO can from the army surplus is just right to store lipos. It’s water proof and would contain any fire that could start inside. I will probably get one in the future but until then, I have been using this little metal tool box. In case of fire inside, flames could escape from four tiny holes at the bottom corners but it’s way better than a cardboard box. I always keep it on the garage cement floor.

[mistercrash]

Testing this slipper clutch is boring, just running back and forth doing hard starts to make the slipper slip gets old very fast. So I decided to bore you with a video of part of a boring testing session. I don't like to be bored alone. At first, the slipper is too tight, even the CD doesn't prevent the truck from wheelying. After adjusting the slipper twice, I get it to slip a lot to test it's durability. Near the end of the video, you can hear it starts slipping quite a bit. But I didn't tighten it after I stopped filming, I just finished the packs doing my race simulation and surprisingly, despite the fact that the slipper was slipping a lot at the end of the hard starts part, the truck ran very well and the slipping was less noticeable during the rest of the packs. It's probably because it got to be very hot during the abuse of the repeated hard starts and got to cool down during running normally. One thing I found weird is about three quarters into the video, you can hear that slipper slipping and all of a sudden, I pop a wheely and then, it starts slipping again. Things that make you go ''hmmmm'' I was running my new 2S packs I made earlier by the way.

[shaunjohnson]

i hate you
you beat me to exactly what i was gonna do!!!!

ive got a 2.5 convert and i am slowly doing ALL of these mods

but i really like your build...will be a valuable resorce in years to come

[BL_RV0]

Very nice write up. Where do you live in Canada?

[mistercrash]

Thank you eh! Very nice of you eh! I live in Guelph, Ontario eh! And please don't close the thread eh! Might have some more stuff to ad if I think of something eh!
Like those companies I have been harassing to make an aluminum chassis for the ERevo. I even sent them a crude drawing of what I think would work great. Basically a slightly modified 3.3 chassis with wings for battery boxes much like the ones Monster Mike sells.

[BL_RV0]

Canada's pretty nice, eh? I lived on take Temagami (aboot 5 hoours north of Toronto, eh?)