My e-revo brushless edition build

[Rebelgium]

Originally Posted by mistercrash

absoloobly I use M3X.5X45 mm cap head screws 12.9, they stick out the bottom like I showed in post #32 and I lock them up with M3 nylok nuts from underneath the chassis.

Ahh right, I remember that. Man that thing is going to be bullet proof, what I like most is that it just looks so professional.


I copied your idea of the rear skid plate made out of cheap sheet metal a while ago, works great.
Today I was looking to make one for the front to, as it is needed most there.
It ended up nice, and without any drilling into original parts. (I wanted to keep stock parts undamaged so it'd be easier to sell later. I have an E revo, and want to go BL later... money you know)

[mistercrash]

I'm dizzy from the soldering fumes



A little thing I do when I solder Deans plugs. Although I am very careful and plan ahead, on occasion, I have to keep the soldering iron tip longer than I should on the Deans' metal tab making the plastic start to melt and the tab moves and becomes crooked. This results in a bad connection or no connection at all. You know, you suddenly have a little twitch and the iron tip moves with the wire and you try to reposition it, it only takes a couple seconds but that is enough to over heat the plug's metal tab.
Some say to connect a male plug into the female plug you want to solder wires to and vice versa. That extra plug absorbs a lot of the heat and often makes for a poor soldering job, cold solder.
So here's my trick, I stuff tiny pieces of hard wood in the female plug I want to work on. Those pieces of wood have been sanded down carefully so that they fit snug but not tight. The wood does not absorb heat and it holds the plug's metal tab in place in case something happens and the plastic starts to melt. For a male plug, I took a scrap female plug and yanked the metal tabs out oh it and replaced them with the wood pieces. This holds the metal tabs of a male plug in place in case the plastic starts to melt. Easy and effective, it made the job much easier.

[What's_nitro?]

Originally Posted by mistercrash

...I have to keep the soldering iron tip longer than I should on the Deans' metal tab making the plastic start to melt and the tab moves and becomes crooked. This results in a bad connection or no connection at all.

You should try a more powerful iron, or a soldering gun. I use my 230W gun to solder Deans and 5.5mm bullets. I let it heat up for a bit so when I put it on the Deans' solder tab it heats/solders so fast that the other end barely gets hot. It also helps to tin the wire/tab just before soldering it so they're still warm and the solder re-melts more easily.

[mistercrash]

Originally Posted by What's_nitro?

You should try a more powerful iron, or a soldering gun.

I use this and I also have this for big jobs.