Muggy chassis

[riverat1540]

cool i get the picture,

[Unsullied_Spy]

What does the steering link do? The way I see it the stock aluminum piece will take longer to wear out than the plastic on the Traxxas piece (the metal ball joint will wear out its plastic housing) and the stock one doesn't really have any slop if you tighten it properly and use a little blue loctite on it. The bearings really make a huge difference though, the bushings are fine at first but mine developed quite a bit of slop and I replaced them with some Avids.

The bearings are a 6x10x3 for anyone who's interested.

[riverat1540]

thanks was wondering that as well, maybe ill just do the bearings first and see how it is as it was tight at one time but sloppy now.

[Unsullied_Spy]

At one time I had around an inch of play in each wheel. I tightened up the screws holding the tie bar (the piece that he replaced with a turnbuckle) in as well as some other screws in the steering after adding some blue loctite and that straightened it up a lot. It used to be that I couldn't steer it at a standstill, steering would only take up slack in the steering and if I went somewhere it would kinda go where I wanted it to.

[devious1]

Sorry i am waking the dead, but by now i hope people have had some feedback between the HD Losi chassis for the muggy and the Innovative...

I have read through a few different post's and have not found much out on chassis's for the muggy...

So that brings me back to the question who feels which one is better besides innovative setup as a brushless chassis?

Or is it pretty much moot,
i would think innovative's 4mm would be better having the thicker chassis and all.

However i am not familiar with the HD Losi chassis and am hoping someone can shed some light on the subject,
as i may need a better chassis if i can lock down another factory chassis for cheap...

[coolhandcountry]

Electric chassis would be nice if laid out good.

[devious1]

Innovative chassis looks nice but i have never seen one in person to see how everything is laid out.
Does it have a spot for an rx box? or just have to throw one in there somewhere.

i am looking at innovative's as i like clean install's makes it look like you took your time on it at least...

[RC-Monster Mike]

Looks like the stock layout without the flywheel and spur gear holes in the pictures. Also, the 6082-T6 aluminum is a relatively new alloy that is similar to 6061. The site compares it as being stronger than 7075-0 - while this may be technically true, this is not a real comparison - 6086-T6 is NOT superior to 7075-T6 that is commonly used for high end chassis plates. "T6" refers to a heat treatment, while "0" is referencing aluminum in its annealed state - not really a noteworthy comparison(kind of misleading, actually).

[brian015]

Originally Posted by RC-Monster Mike

Looks like the stock layout without the flywheel and spur gear holes in the pictures. Also, the 6082-T6 aluminum is a relatively new alloy that is similar to 6061. The site compares it a being stronger than 7075-0 - while this may be technically true, this is not a real comparison - 6086-T6 is NOT superior to 7075-T6 that is commonly used for high end chassis plates. "T6" refers to a heat treatment, while "0" is referencing aluminum in its annealed state - not really a noteworthy comparison(kind of misleading, actually).

I noticed that, too (the comparison to 7075-O) - and wondered how the 6082-T6 compared to 6061-T6. So thanks for the input, Mike.

[RC-Monster Mike]

6082 is kind of like the European version of 6061. 6082 is not common here and 6061 is not commonly available in Europe - they are darn close to identical in all reality. Depending on the source, one may be slightly stronger than the other but in reality they are basically interchangeable.
2000(2024 specifically) series and 7000(7075 specifically) series are the strongest aluminum alloys. 6000 series alloys are considered medium strength and are by far the most commonly used, as they are less prone to cracking, more widely available, highly machinable, easily heat treatable, and less prone to corrosion. :)

[devious1]

Yes, thank you for clearing that up.

In my small minutes of searching of the www is it true the Losi HD is 7075?

If that is the case considering price point one would be better off grabbing that with some of the bracing ideas found on the forum here leaving you with a stronger chassis for cheaper...

Am i correct on this thinking?

Sorry about the many questions i will have, I am new to the truggy/flat pan chassis rc's

[RC-Monster Mike]

The IRC chassis is 4mm thick, so it is likely a little heavier than a 3mm chassis made from 7075 and likely very similar in overall strength due to the extra thickness. The IRC chassis doesn't have any extra cutouts, which is nice. I think either chassis option will be very similar in overall strength.

[devious1]

Thank you Monster Mike.
Decisions decisions.

[bdebde]

I have had both chassis (currently IRC); the IRC is stiffer at 4mm, while the losi 7075 chassis has some flex. Both are worthy replacements for the stock chassis.

[devious1]

Now it just depends on if i want to wait or not, on top of a 14 day wait till they restock them, Otherwise ill go for the Losi HD with Revo rods for bracing...