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  (#16)
lincpimp
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08.15.2009, 01:23 PM

Do you have your slipper tight?

I have a feeling you need a longer road, just because you are hitting full throttle does not mean the truck is at full speed. When I did speed testing with a 10th scale touring car, I picked up 10mph just by moving the radar gun about 200ft down and giving the car an extra 50ft before I started braking. I think you will see the difference with a longer road. How are you determining speed? Bushnell radar gun was what I used.
   
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TexasSP
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08.15.2009, 02:19 PM

The only reason I mentioned tires is the possibility those slicks are losing grip, although I really don't think that's it.


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  (#18)
jayjay283
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08.15.2009, 02:49 PM

will 2x 2s 1800 mah fully power it ? test runs showed you gained 10mph using an 8000 mah over a 5000 mah in a rustler by some manufactuers in speed tests. I run more in my transmitter (2400 mah 2s) my micro T that weighs 3oz runs on a 1800 mah. Just my thoughts, im usually way off
   
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  (#19)
kazuaki
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08.15.2009, 03:34 PM

The slipper is very tight and shows no signs of excessive wear. I ran agin just now in a commercial area with much more space. Same speeds as yesterday. I am still not getting extended period of WOT. I roll inot it and get up to 80-85% throttle (just a guess) and as soon as I get to WOT the front lifts. Several times I passed my friend holding the radar doing 65 mph with the front wheels off the ground. I'm not sure if this is a power wheelie or an issue with aerodynamic lift. When the batteries started going off a bit, I was finally able to go WOT for the last bit of the run. In those runs, even witht he batteries going a bit soft, I still ran 65 mph.

Not really sure what my next step is, or how the heck these others guys have run 15mph faster than this.
   
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  (#20)
kazuaki
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08.15.2009, 03:36 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by jayjay283 View Post
will 2x 2s 1800 mah fully power it ? test runs showed you gained 10mph using an 8000 mah over a 5000 mah in a rustler by some manufactuers in speed tests. I run more in my transmitter (2400 mah 2s) my micro T that weighs 3oz runs on a 1800 mah. Just my thoughts, im usually way off
I can't fit a 4s battery in here. I bought the best batteries I knew of in the G3's. They are rated at 35C/65C, that's 63A continuous and 117A burst.
   
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  (#21)
Jabe
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08.15.2009, 06:40 PM

Have you made any mods on body??
I think you realy need to focus on airdynamics to get it go faster and get downforce to keep front end down.
   
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jayjay283
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08.15.2009, 07:55 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by kazuaki View Post
I can't fit a 4s battery in here. I bought the best batteries I knew of in the G3's. They are rated at 35C/65C, that's 63A continuous and 117A burst.

yeah I hear ya that seems more than enough then. I think that extra mah more applied to when lipos were 15c piles. Just threw it out there. 65 is pretty fast on 4s I agree with the homies, build a super aerodynamic nosecone lol
   
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  (#23)
kazuaki
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08.16.2009, 01:33 AM

The body is still stock. I think I am going to try sticking a wing on the front next, or some type of splitter. I figure that will increase downforce and eliminate some of the flow under the truck. Just need to find an appropriate wing I can use now...
   
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  (#24)
SpEEdyBL
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08.16.2009, 03:35 AM

Obviously your speed threshold has nothing to do with the motor or batteries. Aerodynamics is the ONLY thing that should matter. Next time you are on a highway, stick your hand outside the window and see how much force the wind can push. That's likely the same amount that is pushing against your mini revo. For starters you need the chassis to be as close to the ground as possible by maybe putting some foam underneath to fill in the space if you can't get it low enough. You also need a body that completely covers the wheels.


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Last edited by SpEEdyBL; 08.16.2009 at 03:37 AM.
   
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  (#25)
zeropointbug
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08.16.2009, 04:19 AM

I haven't read the whole thread, but are you running with body on, or off? Off would take alot of top speed away because of the components are obviously created alot of drag.

If you want to make a record, make a tail cone, will make a bigger difference than a front cone, trust me.


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  (#26)
kazuaki
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08.16.2009, 04:28 AM

Stock body is on. It is starting to sound like I need to make a front wing/splitter to reduce front lift. Also sounds like foam tires wouldn't be a bad idea.
   
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TexasSP
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08.16.2009, 09:58 AM

I would also try a little weight in the front before a wing in the front.


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  (#28)
Jabe
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08.17.2009, 10:00 AM

I think you need disc rims also. At least thats what they use in all 1:1 speedrun cars.
   
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  (#29)
kazuaki
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08.17.2009, 10:41 AM

Now that the center diff is available for this truck, I'm going to give that a shot too.
   
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  (#30)
florianz
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08.18.2009, 03:44 AM

I'm running my buggy (frankenstein's ride hyper 7) with some lead on the front bumper to avoid wheelies. the problem is that its a normal, short buggy chassis, and with the truggy wheels I get wheelies on full throttle, as soon as the torsen center diff is locking. some weight in the front helped a lot, because the faster you go, the more wind lifts your buggy. still, I get wheelies sometimes (like 50 meters, off-road!!).

next step would be a proper and aerodynamic shell, and probably a front & back wing for more downforce.

regarding the timing, I don't know if 0 deg. is the way to go. usually, higher timing causes higher rpm's and power output. but the torque is decreasing the higher the timing is, and 15deg. might be too much, and the motor is missing some torque for that extra speed. even that it's just guessing, have a try with 10 degrees.

another idea, maybe you make a new throttle-setup with the esc, just to be on the safe side.

and hey, awesome revo!
   
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