RC8 Brushless Discussion

[pipeous]

I posted another thread...
4S 5K 20C packs, Neu 2.5Df and 16/44 gearing. a few fins need to be dremmeled on the motor to clear the chassis brace but you can't even see it. Great torque, incredible runtimes and my MM barely gets warm. On a larger track I want to try 17 or 18T pinions, but I can stick with most nitros on the straights. Holeshot is another story, I need to get some new tires soon as I have ripped a few nubs of the crime fighters now

sorry to bump an old thread, but am hoping you guys can confirm something for me... I could have started a new one, but figured this was totally relevant, and there was not much point...

I have an RC8 with the tekno conversion, and am running 4S 8000 20c packs (2x 2S) with a Tekin RX8/T8 2650kv motor - i cannot get past 10 minutes without it thermalling on me - geared 16/46...

I was considering going to 3S, but figured it'd be cheaper to just change the motor out, so am about to get my hands on a Tekno Neu 1512/2.5D/F (5mm shaft, 78A, 2050kv, blue) and run that on the 4S packs...

I am wondering what kind of runtime you guys are getting?? I need to make 30 minute mains locally here, and am brand new to the buggies and racing...

I'm also curious to know if running a BEC will help with heat and/or runtime at all? Cheers guys =)

[slimthelineman]

glad to see people runnin rc8's just say no to plastic anyway thought i would share my info too. plus i can post a pic of the car

rcm motor mount
slovak battery tray
dx3s
airtronics 360z
mmm
neu 1512 3d 1700kv
6s neu 3200xp 25/50c outdoor 14-16/44 around 40 mph
4s turnigy 4000 30/40c indoor 16-18/44 around 30 mph

6s is a handfull to drive even on larger tracks, but it will do a 15 min race no sweat and lay waste to any nito buggy on the track as long as you can keep it in control. 4s feels like 19t 4wheel to me, plenty of power for any small to medium indoor track but ALOT less wheelspin and overall easier to drive. a little lighter 440g to the 480 6s packs but as long as the weight is under 500g the car ballances well with this layout.

temps are around 100-110 batts, 110-130 mmm, 140-160 motor after 5-10 minutes on either voltage. run the 44 spur cause i wanted the battery as close to center as possible. gave ranges for the pinion cause it depends on track size and layout, but mostly it depends on the tire diameter. ie small pins or tall lugs, using brian g's speed calc i figure it can have about a 2mph difference in top speed. i made a chart that has all the info on it and it makes gearing super easy. mmm settings are, auto lipo @ 3.1v, 0 punch control, 0 timing, 50% brake, and no beep pretty normal stuff.

as far as the car itself goes the most noticable change was the BB shocks. do the steering mod too. 25 wt all around bronze ft black rr 5k f/c/r if its high traction and not too blown out i like 10k better in the center. havent raced with the new stick yet but all the telemetry works on the bench fine. the rpm sensor is in the space where the rear brake cam used to be. kinda sad my dx3 is on the fritz. the trigger has "lost" nuetral, will take it apart and see what i can do but it lasted 4+ years so i got my $5 out of it.

[slimthelineman]

wow was excited to see rc8's but i guess im livin in the past! sorry everyone

Is it just me, or is anyone else having problems with breaking the front upper arms??? In 3 outings (bashing pretty hard, although i had always thought buggies just take abuse hehehe) i have managed to snap the front right upper arm in 2 of those outings... The only alternative i can find is made by integy, so i have been very hesitant in buying it -lol-