HobbyWing EZRun 80A Review

[Robl45]

does anyone know if this will work with 6s? I know the amps will be fine, they mention it working with 6s, but I'm not sure if thats because the diagrams reference the 150 and the 80. Sure don't need the 150.

[BrianG]

The 80A arms with 5s, but I never ran it very long so I don't know how well it will run long-term. The FETs and caps are technically rated high enough for 5s, but 6s will be too much IMO, especially during braking; and that's even if it will arm on 6s. The BEC is sealed so I'm not sure how it will like 5s, much less 6s. IMO, I would stick to the rating if you want long-term reliability.

[Robl45]

I am not using brakes, I have brakes on my truck, you still think it wouldn't work? I am probably pulling 60 amps max with my setup, I hate to spend 40 plus bucks more for nothing.

Originally Posted by BrianG

The 80A arms with 5s, but I never ran it very long so I don't know how well it will run long-term. The FETs and caps are technically rated high enough for 5s, but 6s will be too much IMO, especially during braking; and that's even if it will arm on 6s. The BEC is sealed so I'm not sure how it will like 5s, much less 6s. IMO, I would stick to the rating if you want long-term reliability.

[BrianG]

Even without braking, 6s is too close to the FET and cap values IMO. It may work, but then again, it may shorten the lifespan.

[SnoopMaxx]

One of the Hobby shops here in Denmark sells the 80A C2 combo and he promises that it will run on 6s he also sells the 150A C3 combo with the same text
In our Danish forum He's getting a beating for miss leading customers

[zetor]

Hi ya
I made my madian 1/8 electric race on the weekend
using a HW 80a on 4s with a medusa 1600 kv in a hyper 8.5 i had it gear on a 15t pinon.
the track was grass and quite short, very tight .
I was racing with the nitros the heats where 7 mins
the first heat i did 13 laps and won by 2 laps ! ( took 3200 mah to recharge the lipo)
and in the second heat, i was one the first lap the car stop dead, the marshall brought the car back to the drives stand, at this point there was lot of smoke and flames .
Not sure why it when up ?
today i have got a 150A and i have order a tekin rx8 also, so hopefully i can have some better luck with them

[zetor]

[junkman]

I am sure you have probably read through, but was anything changed on the esc settings other than cutoff voltage.

[zetor]

Originally Posted by junkman

I am sure you have probably read through, but was anything changed on the esc settings other than cutoff voltage.

yea i dropped the timing down to 7.5, lower the brakes and also the punch setting ......

all my testing was done with a 9XL motor and it was savage, so all that tone it down to driveable levels .

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-iw6Z25DMJY

[jsr]

How low did you set the punch? Many have burned the EZRun ESCs by running the timing too low (seems like 7.5* and lower may make it puff) and punch too low (anywhere near 0-zero punch). The stock settings for timing and punch work great and I don't think you would benefit much in terms of performance, runtime, or heat by altering them. For the 150A coming, I'd recommend not changing the stock settings by much...maybe 1 or 2 each direction, but not more than that.

[zetor]

Sorry i cant remember what i change the punch setting too, ( it was some months ago) dropping those setting did make a difference to its driveability much more suited to my driving style. And yes i will be leaving the 150a setting as is .. apart from the braking force ..

[timaneli]

Originally Posted by lincpimp

Has anyone tried this with a sensored motor yet?

i tried mine with a novak hv 5.5n for 2 months on a e-revo and works great.
motor didn´t pass 55 degrees and esc never pass 45 degrees even and the end of 20 or 30 minutes running ..

regards

[GT35R]

Zetor, mine burned up on its second run too.
I only changed timing to 7.5deg, after reading about the dangers of low punch setting.
Your lucky nothing else burned up when it went off, mine did quite a bit of damage.

It sucks because you soften settings to be careful and nice to your car, not realizing
it could turn it into a time-bomb. I will definately not touch anything other than cutoff
voltage when I get mine back, and will run it without the new body on till I am sure
it will be OK.

Either way, it is NOT acceptable for someone to have to troll forums to pick
up vital info to prevent failure and damage when you are just following the
manufacturers instructions.

[jsr]

The only sensitive settings are punch and timing. Everything else is fine to adjust. And there hasn't any more issues than other brands bit customer service IS different than US brands. For the money I still think HW ESCs and even motors are a great value for the performance they deliver. And HW makes BL systems for quite a few well known US brands.

[jsr]

Well, I was running today at the park on this large dirt mound (don't know why the dirt mound was there...it's not near any construction which in socal is always completely fenced off), but it was fun. I wasn't running very hard...only part throttle and was on NiMH and half way through the first set of packs, I went for a jump and the truck got off balance and landed directly on it's lid. Then, no throttle. Steering worked still. I tried turning off the ESC and back on, nope. Disconnect the battery and reconnect, nope. Then disconnect battery again, reconnect...and MAGIC SMOKE! It was taking some pretty big hits, hard enough to slide the fan on the EZRun ESC half way across the ESC. So, not sure what did it...I guess the landing on it's lid was enough impact to move something around enough to short. So, a dead 80A ESC. Disappointing, but not any more surprising than if it had happened with any other brand. A friend of mine smoked his MMM recently too (his 2nd smoked one).