Opening my CC Neu motor

[V0RT3X]

The plastic that holds the wires together where they exit the can has moved outside of the motor. I can't push it back in, I have to open the motor. I unscrewed all of the 6 screws (3 front 3 back) and I managed to take only the front end off. How can I take the rear off? Is it glued? Didn't want to apply too much pressure.

[suicideneil]

Screw the front back on, unscrew the rear, then bang the end of the shaft against a hard surface to pop the rear endbell off. You can apply a little blue loctite to the endbell and its screws when you reassemble it, should stay together just fine.

[bdebde]

Originally Posted by suicideneil

Screw the front back on, unscrew the rear, then bang the end of the shaft against a hard surface to pop the rear endbell off. You can apply a little blue loctite to the endbell and its screws when you reassemble it, should stay together just fine.

Since it is a CC-neu I am not sure that is the best way. The wires connect to the windings in the back. Shoving the rotor into them may not be a good idea (if they are in the way). If you have the front off, pull the rotor out and look in there first, make sure nothing is in the way. If there is, you could use something much smaller to knock the endbell off from the inside. Be sure to keep track of which spacers go where on the shaft.

[himalaya]

What screw DRIVER did you use to unscrew the rear? I tried all my SAE and Metric drivers with no luck, no one seemed fit.

[V0RT3X]

Cheap dynamite hex set. It's what you americans use (not metric) 12$ from liquidrc.com for 5 drivers. Maybe it was 1/16 size.

Here it is: http://www.liquidrc.com/index.php?ma...ducts_id=33623 Looks like they're SAE type.

[himalaya]

Originally Posted by V0RT3X

Cheap dynamite hex set. It's what you americans use (not metric) 12$ from liquidrc.com for 5 drivers. Maybe it was 1/16 size.

Here it is: http://www.liquidrc.com/index.php?ma...ducts_id=33623 Looks like they're SAE type.

That's weird. The motor has M3(metric) screws in the front but SAE screws in the rear? Does that mix-up reflex the truth - designed in the US and made in China? (We Chinese use metric)

My SAE screw driver set has 4 drivers, the missing one must be the right one. Thanks a lot.

[MetalMan]

A good-quality 1.5mm will take off the rear screws, but a lesser quality 1/16 should also fit (with some slight persuasion).

[Pdelcast]

Originally Posted by himalaya

That's weird. The motor has M3(metric) screws in the front but SAE screws in the rear? Does that mix-up reflex the truth - designed in the US and made in China? (We Chinese use metric)

My SAE screw driver set has 4 drivers, the missing one must be the right one. Thanks a lot.

That's what happens sometimes -- we get a mishmash 'cause we design something (or Steve Neu,) they try to source everything exactly as we call it out in China -- sometimes they can't get the parts (like the SAE size screws) so they source something close and ask us if it's OK.

We've started doing everything metric here now...

[nitrostarter]

Thanks! Why can't there be an industry standard? Like everyone use Metric or everyone use SAE?

While I'm talking, that can go for just about everything, like car parts, oil filters, air filters, belts, hoses, tires....

[BrianG]

Originally Posted by nitrostarter

Thanks! Why can't there be an industry standard? Like everyone use Metric or everyone use SAE?

While I'm talking, that can go for just about everything, like car parts, oil filters, air filters, belts, hoses, tires....

Since we seem to be standing at a wishing well, why not wish for standardized battery ratings while we're at it?

[suicideneil]

SAE? Dont you mean Imperial?

[petewalford17]

i think they do. why carnt they just use the British stranded screw! :) :P

[Thomas]

Castle, I appreciate that you're using all metric hardware.

Originally Posted by nitrostarter

Thanks! Why can't there be an industry standard? Like everyone use Metric or everyone use SAE?

Well, there's something close to a world standard. And no, it's not "standard" hardware.

To quote TMichaels' signature from the FSAE forum:
"- Three nations have not officially adopted the International Metric System of Units as their primary or sole system of measurement: Liberia, Myanmar and the United States.
- 1 Inch was defined to be the thumb width of Heinrich, I., King of England.
- Later 1 Inch was redefined to be the length of 3 barleycorns by Eduard, II., King of England.
- 0˚F were defined by Fahrenheit in the harsh winter of 1708/1709 as he thought that it is impossible to become colder than this
- 100˚F were defined by Fahrenheit to be the normal temperature of the human body. Obviously he had fever, when measuring his own body temperature to define his scale."

[himalaya]

Interesting reading, thanks Thomas.

Looks like Imperial units were defined from someone's body parts(like foot) or some animal's capability(like horsepower), while metric units were more defined from planet earth, which I guess will be more easily accepted by most residents on this planet.

1 meter = 1/10,000,000 of the length from equator to north pole.
1 ton = the weight of 1 cubic meter of water.
0℃ = freeze point of pure water under standard air presure.
100℃ = boiling point of pure water under standard air presure.

[Pdelcast]

Originally Posted by himalaya

Interesting reading, thanks Thomas.

Looks like Imperial units were defined from someone's body parts(like foot) or some animal's capability(like horsepower), while metric units were more defined from planet earth, which I guess will be more easily accepted by most residents on this planet.

1 meter = 1/10,000,000 of the length from equator to north pole.
1 ton = the weight of 1 cubic meter of water.
0℃ = freeze point of pure water under standard air presure.
100℃ = boiling point of pure water under standard air presure.

And don't forget - -the Ampere is the EM standard in Metric, defined as a current that will produce a force of 2x 10-7 newtons per meter in two parallel conductors placed 1 meter apart. (kinda obscure, I know...)