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simplechamp
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09.11.2009, 11:44 PM

It was definitely a learning experience. Knowing what I know now I could probably put one of these together over a weekend. To anyone thinking about making one of these diffs: if I can do it, anyone can. Don't be intimidated by the hardened steel, it's very do-able with the right tools and right advice.

EDIT: One more question about the silicone oil. 50k and 100k seem very high to me for a 1/8 diff. Is that just the nature of the E-revo to need heavier fluids even with this hybrid diff? Or do you guys just like the diff to be very firm? I figured once I swapped all my diffs to 1/8 diffs I could run similar setup to a truggy (7k/10k/3k for example), but now it seems like I'll need heavier weight oils?

Last edited by simplechamp; 09.11.2009 at 11:51 PM.
   
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mistercrash
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09.12.2009, 10:20 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by simplechamp View Post
EDIT: One more question about the silicone oil. 50k and 100k seem very high to me for a 1/8 diff. Is that just the nature of the E-revo to need heavier fluids even with this hybrid diff? Or do you guys just like the diff to be very firm? I figured once I swapped all my diffs to 1/8 diffs I could run similar setup to a truggy (7k/10k/3k for example), but now it seems like I'll need heavier weight oils?
Great article there scjrss, I think that the weight of the truck and the amount of suspension travel it has are a big part of the reason why the center diff needs heavier oil than a Truggy would. The E-Revo squats quite a bit in the rear on acceleration, the front end wants to go way up in the air because of the power of the MMM. Anyway, the truck looses a lot of front traction on acceleration because so much of its weight is transferred to the back wheels. With that said, if the CD has thin lube in it, the front wheels will just spin like crazy and overall acceleration will suffer. Weight transfer can be controlled a bit by putting the front pushrods in the most outer hole of the suspension table, less droop. Putting the hinge pin of the rear suspension arms in the lower hole helps two I've heard. Using the extended rear arms for a longer wheel base and puting your batteries to the front of the battery compartments.
With 10k in the CD, your truck will not wheely, but it will feel sluggish on acceleration and the front tires will look like pizza cutters. With 50k, you will be able to wheely moderately on high traction surfaces, less unloading to the front but still a lot if you don't use throttle control. The acceleration will be much better. With 100k, you can wheelie on demand on asphalt and grass, but not on dirt. High wheelies that make the rear wing touch the ground but the truck won't flip on its lid. Throttle control is a must on start ups, accelerations are explosives on asphalt and grass but a little squirrely on dirt (throttle control fixes that)
This is just from what I have tried up to now, I also tried 30k and I thought it unloaded too much to the front, less than the 10k but not by much.
From what I have experienced and according to MY preferences, the ideal weight lube for me would be around 68.24k to 72.86k

Now about those machinists you talked to and wouldn't help you, go back to them and show them what you did.


No brain, no headaches.

Last edited by mistercrash; 09.12.2009 at 10:25 AM.
   
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