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Bondonutz
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09.24.2009, 11:35 AM

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Originally Posted by rawfuls View Post
I'm having major ball popping off issues
Easy Tiger.


I retired from RC, now life is all about guns and long range shooting.
   
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  (#287)
jpoprock
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09.24.2009, 11:40 AM

Between your balls and my rod length problems, we might as well buy dresses!


ERBE: RCM 1/8 Hybrid Diffs, NEU 1515/2.5d/S MMM, 6S, Losi E-XXL CUSTOM, Neu1515 2.5d, MMM, 6s E-SLAYVO PRO ERevo Chassis w/ Pro 3.3 parts, NEU 1512, MMM, 4S.
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  (#288)
Bondonutz
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09.24.2009, 11:44 AM

That paints a real ugly mental picture


I retired from RC, now life is all about guns and long range shooting.
   
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  (#289)
stum
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09.24.2009, 05:01 PM

If I could point out two things..

#1 if it's loose enough to come off you want to swap out the end anyway and this will only hide a problem and may lead to control issues that take longer to realize.

#2 if you swap to the RPM true tracks not only do you get a perfect toe in you don't have rear turnbuckles or any of the hassle that comes w/ them; minus the weight as well.

Just my 2c

I do a no pop mod on my 8ight truggy/buggy steering turnbuckles, which is very common racing, but nothing supporting around the plastic ends. I want to know when the ends get loose so I can replace and keep the control and accuracy.


8ight-e (B&T) MMM - Hyperion Lipos
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  (#290)
mistercrash
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09.24.2009, 10:56 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by jpoprock View Post
Hey Shaun/MistaCrash...

I've looked thru this thread (which is a LOT of lookin!), and I can't seem to find this mod that you're talking about. I was hoping you could direct me to the post that talks about it?

I like some of the ideas shown on how to strengthen up the rear wing area. I like the one where the shafts mount to the back of the truck, then up to the wing itself. I'm going to get a hold of some P2 rods with hopes to brace my wing up.

Question though.. will I have to fab up a mount for it on the shock mount? My Tekin stabilizer kit has a small screw in the center, but I'm not sure it's adequate to hold. I have some CF that I can cut up and make a mount. I just don't remember if I have a countersink bit. I think I do.



Also, has it been decided as to which "dirt flap" is the best design? Is it the one where you used Gorilla tape, or is it the one where you cut a single piece of rubber? I'm sure both are great!

So, do I still sound mad? LOL! I hope not. I never intend to come off that way ever! And if I do choose to be mad, you'll know it.
If you're asking about the no slop Ofna hexes it starts at post #7. For the rear wing I would say yes you would have to make a mount to go on the rear shock tower. The Gorilla tape dirt flaps work good but they are a little soft, the stiff rubber ones were better. No you don't sound mad at all.


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  (#291)
mistercrash
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09.24.2009, 11:11 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by stum View Post
If I could point out two things..

#1 if it's loose enough to come off you want to swap out the end anyway and this will only hide a problem and may lead to control issues that take longer to realize.

#2 if you swap to the RPM true tracks not only do you get a perfect toe in you don't have rear turnbuckles or any of the hassle that comes w/ them; minus the weight as well.

Just my 2c

I do a no pop mod on my 8ight truggy/buggy steering turnbuckles, which is very common racing, but nothing supporting around the plastic ends. I want to know when the ends get loose so I can replace and keep the control and accuracy.
#1 - Once they are loose enough to pop off, I swap them out. This is not something to try to make them last forever. Just something to make them stay in place an not pop off during a race. I had brand new ones pop off after two qualifiers for some reason and this helps keep them in their place until the race day is over. I still check them often for excessive wear and change them when needed.

#2 - I don't like RPM plastic, the arms seem to break less because the plastic is soft. I don't like how flexy they are. I don't like that they don't make them in an extended version like the Traxxas ones. Finally, I don't like e-clips.

Don't ask why, I'm just weird that way.


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  (#292)
shaunjohnson
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09.25.2009, 04:57 AM

the threaded inserts was early on in the build i think.
you have to get some du-bro threaded inserts from tower hobbies and matching imperial screws.
so it is best to convert the whole truck to imperial screws and then change over your wrenches.
shaun


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  (#293)
stum
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09.25.2009, 06:34 PM

Yes but if you buy slightly longer pins you can do a more standard style mud guard as well.. which is another awesome item to have on a dirt track :)

PS I hate the RPM front a-arms, I don't feel like I have the same amount of control as funny as that sounds. The rears though don't bother at all, I'm faster w/ the RPM's on than w/ the stock or extended out racing (Yes I tried them all and took an avg). It's nearly impossible to have a perfectly matched toe in w/ the erevo, and the ends are always stripping out on the rear turnbuckles.. I was EXTREMELY pleased that they were not needed w/ the RPM True Tracks installed.





8ight-e (B&T) MMM - Hyperion Lipos
Ofna Hyper SC 10 Pro - Medusa 4800kv

Last edited by stum; 09.25.2009 at 06:36 PM.
   
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  (#294)
mistercrash
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10.06.2009, 11:21 AM

Update on the LST diff modification. They are awsome, I disassembled the truck for some end of season maintenance and the diffs have no sign of leakage and run smooth as silk so I just cleaned the outside and put them back in the bulkheads. That's a whole spring/summer of racing and bashing on 4S with a few times having fun on 6S so they are very durable. An original idea from Lincpimp and I thank you for it.

I can't remember if I mentioned how I install them in the bulkheads now, I shave down some material on the aluminum cases of the diffs so that leaves the bulkheads intact except for a small portion that has to be Dremeled to accommodate for the front of the diffs where the two screws are. Here's a few pics, I hope they are self explanatory. This way of doing it coupled with the diff blocks really holds up to some serious abuse.



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Last edited by mistercrash; 10.06.2009 at 11:28 AM.
   
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  (#295)
AMorgan
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10.12.2009, 10:53 AM

Crash,

Great write up so far. I was actually in the middle of a nitro-revo to E conversion and after reading all this decided I wanted to go full E-Revo BL instead (with a Tekin setup). So thanks for that. Love the battery door mod, I'll definitely be doing that to my doors for ease of use. Have you had any issues with losing body clips on the battery doors while on track? That'd be my only concern.

Also, any chance you might offer the tower spacer to keep the shocks from rubbing or the diff blocks for the LST? I unfortunately don't have the parts making facilities I used to. Either way, great truck and I hope mine will be as nice and consistent once it's done.
   
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  (#296)
mistercrash
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10.12.2009, 03:51 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by AMorgan View Post
Crash,

Great write up so far. I was actually in the middle of a nitro-revo to E conversion and after reading all this decided I wanted to go full E-Revo BL instead (with a Tekin setup). So thanks for that. Love the battery door mod, I'll definitely be doing that to my doors for ease of use. Have you had any issues with losing body clips on the battery doors while on track? That'd be my only concern.

Also, any chance you might offer the tower spacer to keep the shocks from rubbing or the diff blocks for the LST? I unfortunately don't have the parts making facilities I used to. Either way, great truck and I hope mine will be as nice and consistent once it's done.
Sorry but I really have no time to make parts for people. Lately I don't even have time to go do stuff in my garage. I never lost a body clip on my battery doors and they stay closed no matter what now.


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  (#297)
shaunjohnson
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10.12.2009, 04:32 PM

that threaded inserts mod is strong!!
because i run a nitro chassis it cracked!!
right at where the bulkheads join the chassis. under normal circumstances the bulkhead would have pulled out
got a new chassis for $5 though


E-revo 3.3 conversion, 249kv outrunner, 6s, MMM
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  (#298)
mistercrash
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10.13.2009, 12:12 PM

6S is fun! To fast for racing but so much fun once in a while. But I think my Badlands are gone, I don't get much grip from them anymore



I am trying new mud flaps I made from battery shrink Battery shrink is tough, somewhat rigid and flexible and they are the thinnest, lightest mud flaps I have ever done. They seem to hold up very well, even with the front wheels flinging rocks on them on 6S.


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  (#299)
shaunjohnson
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10.13.2009, 04:40 PM

cant race on 6s, grumble mumble...
it's the ONLY way to race lol.
we are all mad at our club and every single one of us runs 6s
nice job on the baddies :P
also, we think we have found a solution to the plastic rod ends getting their thread ripped out! (even though the last 2 times it happened to me was when the thread itself snapped off in the rod end )

we are going to use "ear crimps". someone at the club used them and we just got some to try, will show you guys later.


E-revo 3.3 conversion, 249kv outrunner, 6s, MMM
the porthole from the noob world an here has been opened!! that's how i got in.

Last edited by shaunjohnson; 10.13.2009 at 04:44 PM.
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  (#300)
mistercrash
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10.13.2009, 11:07 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by shaunjohnson View Post
we are all mad at our club and every single one of us runs 6s
I wish your track was closer to me

Quote:
Originally Posted by shaunjohnson View Post
we are going to use "ear crimps". someone at the club used them and we just got some to try, will show you guys later.
Sounds like something body piercing fanatics would use. Please post some pics.


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