High speed G-maxx for ISC event, 100mph or bust

[Rivermaxx]

Here my wing:

I need to get rid of some of or all the down force kick up in the back. I was thinking of just removing kickup near the side of the stabilizers (see pic) or just remove the center leaving the rear side kick ups to help support the side stabilizers.

I could also remove the whole thing all the way across as I think I need the stabilizers more than the rear downforce as too much will cause the front to lift and I dont want that. even with the rear removed the front part of the wing still has a small kick up also(see first pic). What do you guys think?

[JThiessen]

Pull the wing off completely for a run and see how it acts. That will give you "data" at both ends of the spectrum, and you may be able to make a more precise "guess" at where you need to be.

I agree that you probably saw torque steer. Might want to change diff fluid.

Another thing you might try once you get to the fine tuning stage is some sort of mud guard on the A arms. You could possibly shape it so its not just a flat surface. May or may not make a difference.

Great diagram PBO - that's exactly what I was trying to explain in one of my earlier posts. I personally think its all about that front wing or spoiler with the body shape, height, extended arms and wheels that a MT has.

[PBO]

Originally Posted by Rivermaxx

Here my wing:

I need to get rid of some of or all the down force kick up in the back. I was thinking of just removing kickup near the side of the stabilizers (see pic) or just remove the center leaving the rear side kick ups to help support the side stabilizers.

I could also remove the whole thing all the way across as I think I need the stabilizers more than the rear downforce as too much will cause the front to lift and I dont want that. even with the rear removed the front part of the wing still has a small kick up also(see first pic). What do you guys think?

I agree you need the vertical stabilizers more than anything. I would also remove the "kickup" but I would dremel it down bit by bit across the entire length. I would expect you'll remove up to 1/4" of height by the time you're finished tuning

I would add some bigger end plates though...each 5 mph increase over 70mph changes the way your vehicle will behave & the vertical end plates will have a positive effect on each issue you have described the closer you get to 100

I'm not sure a gyro will be able to correct torque steer (if this is the issue) because it may end up "hunting" (over correcting itself), this is bad at any time but under acceleration it can obstruct additional throttle input. You'll need to spend some time getting it setup correctly - I tried to tune both a Dbox & Ace gyro on my Rustler & I got to a point where it was doing almost nothing under acceleration but would keep things tidy under brakes (this enabled me to run stock sliders to > 85mph because I could slow down slowly, without snapping the yokes off first dab of the brakes)